Member postings for DiogenesII

I think the numbers are stamped in one of the jaw's slots - there should be a four-figure serial no., and the jaw number er, somewhere close by..

Apropos tightening, I guess I mean, the emphatic one - I don't find there are too many degrees of tightening down with this size chuck - I don't seem to find much movement in the second or third pinions, and I don't insist on finding some - enough pressure to hold the work, but I don't wring it 'til it cries.

Transfer one, once that's drilled & threaded you can bolt it up and do the others using the clearance holes as a guide. Mill accuracy will be perfectly adequate, as you say location is provided by the register.

Once mounted, use a known-good object (shank of a fat, unused end mill?) and DTI to check run-out at the jaws. I have one of those chucks, the original 'set-up' pinion wasn't marked, you will probably find that you get wildly differing results depending which pinion you use to tighten down the work. Mark the one that gives best results.

Once you have done that, rotate the chuck about the mounting holes on the backplate, you may find a particular position will give an improved result.

I think it's a good choice, I wasn't that impressed with the 'feel' when I first had mine, but a bit of 'a wire-brush' deburr & some use, and it's improved markedly, repeatable run-out in the less-than-half-thou to one thou range depending on how fussy one wants to be setting the work.

Occasionally EK10 soft jaws turn up on sale at decent prices - well worth getting a set.

Edited By DiogenesII on 05/02/2021 15:41:57

..the only design fault with the Series steering box was that the adjustment screw and nut were plainly visible from above.. ..and you know what happens to overly-prominent adjustment screws...

- it wasn't unusual to go look at a well-used II or III in the eighties & nineties and find that it only progressed in a series of straight lines, it being a common myth amongst 'experts' everywhere that 'that screw'll take some of the slop out of the steering'.. Good luck with the interior restoration.

The last spate round here involved 'prospecting' by drilling spy-holes in the walls/doors of outbuildings, especially those accessible from lanes & footpaths - often discreetly, up high or down low, some of them quite small.

If a mysterious drilled hole unexpectedly appear in your workshop, it's a sign. At least one was given away by the owner noticing a little pile of sawdust on top of his toolbox..

Henkel are a huge global concern with facilities over much of the world.. Probably genuine - if it was arm-and-leg expensive, definitely genuine..

+ another for the advice above - the tightness at the last turn makes sense if the damage is at the end of the spindle, it's probably only making it's presence felt as the register tries to seat and pull everything into line..

As noted, it's okay to dress the bruised area down even if you go very slightly below the level of the surrounding metal, a small localised 'dip' won't cause any problems as the untouched thread surfaces will support the chuck regardless.

..if you can't download the Grizzly manual ( 'now discontinued' ), in Nick's link above, an internet search for 'RF-25 mill manual' might bear fruit.

Also the Grizzly manual for it's bigger brother, the G0705, is still available to download - notwithstanding slight differences in capacity and maybe detail variations, the layout of the controls and the manner of operation is pretty much the same, I think.

Looks a useful machine, I like the stop on the Y axis, it shows some previous owner was thoughtful..

Edited By DiogenesII on 24/01/2021 13:37:28

'Black poster paint' doesn't sound good, because it'll be iron from the steel walls of the tank.. ..if there's a larger bung that you can remove to inspect the inside it would be worth a visual check - the trouble with leaving standing water in it is that pitting tends to be worst along the water-line - obviously a linear stress-raiser is not good..

The options depend much on the age, size quality etc., of your compressor - you could blank the bungs and hydraulically test (to say 1 1/2 X WP? any advice welcome) if the thing is a professional / quality bit of kit and will be expensive or difficult to replace with something of similar quality..

..if it was a small tool-shop cheapy then it's pretty much a no-brainer - anything that was built-down-to-a-price in the first place is most likely to have been of the minimum thickness to provide an adequate safety margin when it left the shop all those years ago..

I have a nice industrial compressor that spent the first half of it's 40-year life in a workshop on a seafront, but having seen the pits inside it two years ago when I recognised my subconscious habit of making sure that I was never in the same room with it under pressure, it's in complete retirement until a decent receiver comes up at a suitable price..

Great to see & hear it, it's an interesting one to have seen built, thanks.

Just been watching the last two videos ('collet chuck' & 'MT adaptor'  - is the bruising that you mentioned in your first post that which is visible on the flank of the first full-turn back from the open end? ..there are some very experienced & pragmatic machinists responding to this thread, maybe if anyone else would care to take a look and comment - I recognise that it's hard to tell without having the thing in one's own hands, but if you can still see or feel even a slight irregularity, you could perhaps try another careful clean-up with a (shaped, if necessary) slip and see whether you can get the collet chuck a little closer - as noted above, with the stick-out that you have, it can only be some very few microns at the nose..

Maybe a little permanent marker applied to the threads in that area and trying the chuck on & off a couple of times might tell you more?

Edited By DiogenesII on 21/01/2021 18:55:19

..and just to complicate matters further, here is another description containing the bolting arrangements to be employed..

..from Henry Spooner's 'Machine Design Construction and Drawing' (Longman's, Green & Co., 1908) included because of it's direct relevance to the specific context of the discussion.

..By the terms 'Two Crank' & 'Three Crank' I surmise he means two- and three-throws - i.e. twins or triples..

Edited By DiogenesII on 19/01/2021 14:36:43

It's quite safe - this explains everything

HSE - Fluoroelastomers in Motor Vehicles

Try this;

How to.. ..Pictures

I've bought smaller stuff from them, was fine..

Whilst you're browsing Ebay, might be worth noting that Honda and BMW (& probably others) use 45mm fork-stanchions in their bikes.. ..much stiffer & maybe less 'ringy'.. ..you'd want the vendor to guarantee or have them back if they're not straight..

Edited By DiogenesII on 10/01/2021 18:09:52

Hmm. ..does anything prevent it swinging a 150 (or 160) mm four jaw?

..quite so..

doesn't 5/16 ME thread come as 40tpi..?

Tracy Tools 5/16 x40 ME

Edited By DiogenesII on 05/01/2021 07:13:00

Myford used changewheels for the backgear cluster on these, so form will be the same - and the ML4 changewheels I have mesh with those of the 7 series, so 20DP 14.5PA? ..IIRC..

What was the tooth-count of the bullgear?

Felt Strip ? - more suitable for low shaft pressure applications in a fairly 'passive' environment?

..it's still available from the likes of SKF.. ..I know where I might look, in the 'Business Office & Industrial' section..

ER Tap Collets...

Weston Tooling ER Tapping Collets

Also available elsewhere I'm sure..

..I guess you'd only need to buy em' once..

Edited By DiogenesII on 22/12/2020 16:33:19