Member postings for DiogenesII

Clevis Pin?

Some interesting reading in both of those, Michael. Thank you for the links..

I wasn't implying that guns were made on it, the tooling set-up suggested repetition of ?shouldered screws to me ..

Edited By DiogenesII on 31/05/2021 08:06:51

..ah, yes - wondered when someone would spot that - look on it as kind of Quality Assurance check..

I must say that was quite a kind response..

Did you mount the chuck to do this job? ..it's not summat simple like a piece of debris that's got trapped behind the chuck...?

Toolpost Key, surely?

I had a Wolf press like that, it could drill holes like lightning. i.e. never struck twice in the same place..

No. ..they came into being with the need to investigate fraud, deception, and evasion of dues centuries ago - er, I believe the first 'Customs / Assize' powers enshrined as law have a mediaeval origin.

I'm somewhat surprised that educated men are so outraged that a public body charged with accounting for taxpayers money should have the necessary powers to investigate abuses..

In 2019-20, I believe benefits fraud administered by DWP amounted to around £2 billion..

I wouldn't mind seeing a small part of that spent on something socially beneficial near me..

ega - ..Maybe.. see the 'How to Use.. ..For Best Results' paragraph towards bottom of page..

Fortune Tools - Diamond Grinding Wheels

..it gives SFM recommendations for wet/dry - handy..

Has the look of the gunmaker about it, to me.. ..I see the seller is is close to Birmingham - there were a huge number of workshops operating there by the eve of the Great War..

Doing a bit more legwork this morning, Rotagrip's CC13 look like they'd also probably fit;

Rotagrip - Soft Jaws Chineses 125mm Chuck

To keep things clearer, thought I'd add this bit last.. ..they're from Warco, listed on the invoice as Soft Jaw Set SJ-11-125; they aren't listed on the website as that, so it might be best to ring them, and in any case it'd be worth checking the price, probably £thirty-something.. They are made by 'Fuerda'. .

Edited By DiogenesII on 15/05/2021 21:52:21

I'd say your luck is pretty good.. ..the figures vary by some fraction of a mm here an' there, but mostly to do with holding calipers in one hand and camera in the other on the floor of a harshly-lit shed..

I'm too tired to work out the order & captions, so note that pitch is about 6.05, but they need to be a very free fit in the scroll, so that will be okay - they're also not the easiest things to measure, being curved.. 6.1 was from Warco's website, I got 36.32 over 6 teeth on the edges..

Edited By DiogenesII on 15/05/2021 21:49:45

It's looking good, I'll put some pics up as soon as I've sorted them out.. ..a few minutes (hopefully)

Edited By DiogenesII on 15/05/2021 21:04:48

It'd be helpful to know the width and slot dimensions.. ..If it's any help, the Warco 125mm ('Fuerda' brand) chuck soft jaws are 6.1 mm pitch, 56mm long, 16mm wide and 45mm high, with an 8mm high slot.. ..the bottom of the slot is about 6.8 above the ends of teeth / top of scroll..

..Yes, what these men just said..

Some further discussion & drawings here including new tops for 'used-up' soft jaws;

Harold Hall Using Soft Jaws in the 3 Jaw Chuck

Try this, looks like a private UK seller...

Ebay - Dial Gauge Bal Contact M2.5..

Cambridge won 13 races on the trot 1924 to 1936..?

..And.. ..a bit of cross-referencing and canny selection can let one hold certain metric 'part-sizes' in imperial collets (& vice versa) without needing to squash them down to the limit, if they're going to be used frequently..

Why is your chuck so tight - might be worth checking that there isn't a burr or 'ding' on the keyway / key? - if it's been in-and-out a couple of times you might be able to see where it's been rubbing..

Hm, maybe. ..I'd (unplug!) and check the brushes first, they are under the little caps on the sides opposite the speed switch - the original brushes aren't very generous..

If the brushes are okay, whilst they are out, peer down the little hole and see whether there's debris stuck between the segments of the commutator which is probably the most likley place for trouble of the kind you describe.

If you can see debris in the commutator slots, use a cocktail stick or a splint of wood to fiddle it out of the brush hole, or dislodge and shake it out of the back cooling slots.

If you need to 'split' it, the screws are some squitty Torx size (sorry, they're not in mine anymore - could be T2.5?), it's straightforward inside, note how the cable is routed between the pillars ('cos you'll have to get it back exactly the the same way if it falls out).. ..the motor is supported (I think) in a rubber bush at the end, and might have a 'hole and pin' register to stop the bearing spinning that has to be lined up on reassembly.

The bearings are supported by the plastic casings which aren't very accurately moulded, I had to fiddle around with the screw tension (to the point of tiresomeness) once I'd reassembled mine in order to get it to run smoothly at high speed..