Member postings for Chris V

Hi Old Mart, The chuck back plate is second hand.

I have not touched the thread, which I have now discovered is a little over size for my spindle nose thread. (I don't know why this is, maybe it could be worn, or maybe its previous owner had a slightly larger spindle, either way its a bit bigger than on my other chucks). So its looser when screwing it on the spindle than my other chucks.

The back plate did not have a rear register recess turned into it which I knew was incorrect so I turned a recess in it aiming for it to mate well with the spindle register...however I took a tad too much off. Now the back plate screws on and sits tight and square to the spindle register, however I know that the recess I turned is slightly too large a diameter. Added to the over size threaded section I was concerned it would not be sufficiently accurate enough once I get to do some fine tolerance work.

Sleeving the recess I made would solve part of the issue but the thread would still be a little loose and of a little concern to me. So as mentioned I will put it on one side for now and use a new factory supplied back plate that fits my spindle well. This way I can have confidence in my chuck, ....if not my turning ability!

Hope that clarify's things for you.

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you old mart.

A member very kindly offered me a slice of CI to sleeve it so I went and checked what size I would need. But on further investigation I found the thread was more undersize than the register I had cut, so the thread was making it all seem way too far off. The chuck & backplate are second hand, sold as to fit a Drummond and as there's different size threads for these its no great surprise it didn't fit. There was no register turned in the backplate when I got it, so I put it down to another learning experience.

But I have a new Myford backplate on the shelf which fits well, so I will use that.

Thanks again

Chris.

Thanks Nick, Ok seems sleeving it is the way to go so I will give that a try when I get some time.

Many thanks all,

Chris.

Thank you both. Yes I suppose I could try boring it out.

What would be the best material for a sleeve, I have brass in stock but guess that would wear more quickly....?

Mild steel or should it be cast iron like the backplate...or bronze if I have to buy anything?

Good morning all.

Recently I attempted to make a second hand chuck backplate a better fit to my lathe. I have made several from scratch successfully but this did not go as planned. I turned too much out of the Rear of the backplate Recess where it fits over the register on the spindle nose. So it threads on with a wobble but sits tight up to the shoulder on the spindle. With the chuck fitted, its a 4 jaw independent, the front face runs pretty true.

In use is this going to be an issue or should I start again?

Cheers

Chris.

Happy Christmas to you all.

Thank you again for all the help this year, its been a godsend.

Wishing you good health & happiness next year and beyond,

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks Andrew, I guess the amount of force used with the hammer to tap it securely in place is down to part size and experience?

Chris.

Well thank you all very much. I have gone for Jason's suggestion of Dormer Supercut.

The online specifications seem to fit my requirements. As an apprentice woodworker 40 years ago now I bought a set of Dormer drills and still use them to this day. It wasn't until Jason's post I knew Dormer made/marketed a cutting fluid, I guess I shouldn't be surprised I didn't know, there's a lot of information and knowledge like that! (-;

Yes I will use the reamers in a UPT to keep it all steady and square.

Thanks again to you all,

Chris.

Thank you Old Mart, good idea, I have been thinking about buying some, for several years now! I tend to just reach for the handy 3 in 1 can which certainly helps when tapping but I forgot when I reamed my first taper pin hole.

Just read a few threads, seems one popular cutting fluid stains some steels and tooling )-:

I see the stuff Arc sell dosen't stain brass which would be good as I use that a fair bit. Then there's Tallow, still readily available on ebay, but I can just see the tub getting full of swarf as tooling gets wiped in prior to cutting.

500ml seems a lot and not in a handy dispenser... liable to get spilled or do you buy smaller bottles from somewhere and decant?

Perhaps I need a few more years to decide, ...any suggestions please?

Chris.

Great thank you Jason, I knew I had read something on here about Sherwood but could not remember what exactly, now you say that I think it was along those lines....

Thanks Andrew, if they are good enough for you...Iv'e just ordered from them. Nearly £25 with VAT but still less expensive than Sherwood..and if they are made here all the better!

Thanks again

Chris.

I'm looking to buy a 1/16" taper pin reamer. I have found online several non branded at around £10 +P+P +VAT so approx £15, or Sherwood brand at £30.

I was taught as a woodworker to always buy the best tools you can afford, however with such a price difference I'm not so sure.....

I expect they are fairly easy to break, Sherwood branded might last longer if that's the case, but I don't have enough experience with these finer sizes to be clear in my mind.

Which would you buy please?

Chris.

Thanks for this Howard, much appreciated! (-:

regards

Chris.

Thank you ega. I'm not familiar with metalworking scrapers, would this be used as a kind of countersink to

remove the burr, or pushed across the surface in a similar fashion to a file?

Thanks Ian, yes I did consider a grub screw which surely would have been easier.

But I'm trying to learn some of the traditional basics for my own satisfaction. (-:

Chris.

Chuck Key Update. I bought another chuck so will need more keys! (-:

But I wasn't happy with how I secured the cross bar to the stem on my first attempts, several centre punch dots didn't seem quite right given the effort (for me) of making the rest of the keys. So I thought I'd utilise for the first time the previous knowledge learned when I enquired about fitting taper pins. This morning I fitted my first 5/32" taper pin.

All went well but of course I have a couple of follow up questions.

When I drilled through I ended up with a burr on the underside. Twiddling a countersink bit didn't remove it entirely so I used a very fine file, which of course marred the otherwise reasonable finish I had. I rubbed it with a little abrasive but the surface was never going to be the same, unless of course I disassembled the key and put it back in the lathe. I didn't think this was wise so its ended up not 100% perfect for a first attempt.

So the question is can I either prevent a burr forming or if not any ideas I could try on the others to clean it off?

I'm well aware its only a chuck key but I'm keen to get what I do as good as I can.

Chris.

Thank you Brian, I wasn't aware of the AJReeve one. (-:

Chris.

Hi Brian, thank you for pointing that out, that was a typo in this instance though my spelling is pretty rubbish.

On top of that in referring to the model in question the makers emailed me about it, the Heinriki (WLC2), so that's either their take on the spelling or their typo! Apparently its not currently in production but might be next year.

On reflection I shall (should) probably tackle my Stuart James Coombes that I started 30 years ago, once Ive finished faffing about that is. But it does look like a nice model to tackle maybe, one day.

Chris.

Thanks for all this Ian.

Not knowing anything about motors and bearing in mind it was both cheap and modern made I had my reservations as to whether 200w would be powerful enough, so went for a 500w version. Time will tell if that was overkill, but I'd rather have too much power for the filer than not enough. I'm still using a small grinder and belt sander I bought 30 years ago, both of which whilst still hanging in there are under powered and so a constant source of frustration.

Your drill/motor set up looks neat, I have a UPT and Champion No 1 that also need motors. I found on eBay a modern replacement motor for a Unimat with inbuilt variable speed which is very neat and compact that I will in time fit to the UPT.

Today I need to study the Polly Vee pulley on my treadmill motor, I want to replace it with an iron or brass one, thinking maybe (I'm a beginner) I can turn one, just concerned about getting the regularly spaced vee grooves correct.

Before that though I shall mostly be learning to use a 4 jaw.

Chris.

Thank you Ian, some good pointers there that are most helpful and I will take onboard.

How do you find the motor, are you pleased with it?

Chris.

Any thoughts on this one please?

Chris.

I bought a treadmill motor and controller to power a die filer.

The die filer is c1910 vintage and I wish to build a housing for both motor and controller.

50/50 to keep the filings out / to hide them as far as possible. It will be on a movable baseboard to sit on my workbench, the motor cannot go underneath
as the working height would be too great. So something aesthetically pleasing, possibly both wood and metal.

The motor itself is open each end ie likely needs some ventilation. The control box as you can see in the photo has a perforated casing suggesting this too needs some airflow around it.

A visiting electritan suggested 1/2" or so gap around the controller would be fine, but as I have no idea I'm asking the question, how much space between the components and any housings should I allow?
I wish to keep it as compact as possible but obviously don't wish it to overheat.

Thanks

Chris.