Member postings for Chris V

Ha! so it does, so much to learn!

Cannot see Boots selling me cyanide salts, not that I'd want them!

Thank you both!

Chris.

This morning I had delivered a new to me vintage Eclipse No 101 adjustable scribe.

Some light surface rust, but the base is blued in a wonderful mottled/marble finish, would this be achieved with heat and then in oil or cold? I know bluing can be by either but just wondering if the MARBLED effect can be reproduced at home?

I was told recently that leaving lightly rusted steel to soak in WD40 for a few weeks is a very gentle way of removing corrosion, if I put the whole thing in to soak is it likely to affect / remove the bluing?

Last but not least what is the vertical knurled knob for?

Cheers

Chris.

Ok thanks, I will have to practice!

Cheers

Chris.

Oh yes, what blades and where from please, I think the ones I got are probably too fine ....

Ah thank you John ok I will try that, seems like I was over thinking it

Not like me at all🤔😊

Cheers

Chris.

Ok well I set the fretsaw up this morning and was pleasantly surprised with how it works.

Cut 1mm copper and 1.5mm brass without much problem.

Only issue I can see is if as suggested the top guide is lowered down to just clear of the work being cut, to act as both a hold down and blade support you cannot see where you are cutting. So that's something to think about..and any ideas are welcome.

Cheers

Chris.

Oh ok thanks very much Bill.

I think when I needed some I was just glad to find they were still available but that was some while ago, before I saw the light and joined the forum!

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you Ian, and I hope you continue to recover well.

Today some fretsaw blades arrived but agree I don't think they will perform well, unless under tension. Hopefully tomorrow I will have a chance to assemble it and try it out.

I'm currently considering if I might make an upper blade clamp so the blades can be in tension.

I'm sure Ive seen belts available on eBay.

Cheers

Chris

Thank you so much John and Emgee, yes mines like that so problem solved. I need to get some metal cutting blades now, what sort of TPI would be good for 1mm brass & copper?

Cheers

Chris.

Hi Bill, thank you, I have a general assembly diagram of how the saw components fit together, but it dosen't show how this part works, or is meant to. Maybe you have some more specific info, if that the case then yes please do send it over.

Cheers

Chris.

Unimat Fretsaw No1080 arrived today, looks to be in good condition though needs a good oiling.

If anyone is familiar with these, I'm not clear how the upper blade guide locks the blade?

The part is a piece of rod with a slot cut down its length, then a VERY tight piece of tube at one end, also with a vertical slot. Currently both rod & tube are a very tight fit, I'm assuming they are meant to be movable against each other and should somehow clamp the fret blade in place?

Any assistance as always gratefully received!

Cheers

Chris.

**LINK**

Simple indexing, hopefully the above link will answer better than I can at this time? (As Ive not used it yet) (-:

Cheers

Chris.

The idea is to use this with the Turnado for freehand cutting mostly brass in my case, so yes light cuts only, and where possible also using the tailstock when copying spindles. Otherwise I will use the bearing nut on the faceplate holder as standard. The extender enables the table/freehand toolpost to be more centrally located.

Have a look at Eccentric Engineering pop up/moving adverts on the right>

Cheers

Chris.

Well my weekend didn't start too well. Having decided the length of journey and costs to the London Exhibition were too great I at least thought I could make some workshop progress. Judging from some of the comments I'm glad I stayed home. I thought the Midlands Exhibition was great and I shall go again this year, is there any likelyhood of the Bristol Exhibition returning?

Friday PM I attempted to make a brass sleeve, 10mm O/A dia brass tubing opened out a tad to make it 8.75mm bore, from 8mm. Not a big task I thought...well the drill bit barely made a start before it slipped in the second hand keyless Rohm chuck, the chuck spun in the 1MT and the flat belt slipped off the pulleys!Off to the wood lathe and 5mins later the job was done, so not a great start on the ML1.

Saturdays task was to make my first backplate for an ER32 chuck. Saturday morning I achieved virtually nothing, I think the brand new RDG HSS tools were rubbing, time will tell once I've reground them. So I found a secondhand HSS cutter which I ground freehand and immediately saw the difference, cast iron is not after all the Devils material!

Yesterday ended on a high with only the drilling for the bolts to do this morning. Ok it wont impress anyone else here but as a first small project I'm rather pleased with the result. Importantly the register is a good fit. I used spotting drills to transfer the hole positions which worked a treat, another tip picked up from this wonderful forum. I'd never heard of them before.

Now fitted with the beautifully finished Eccentric Engineering collet extender.

Cheers

Chris

Thanks not done it yet, it appears mine has enough clearance, but I would not of thought of checking that?

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks very much Clive, that's most helpful, something else for my to do list!

Cheers

Chris.

The Mill also came with this vice, how do you fix properly to the table please?

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you Clive, yes this makes a lot of sense and is the way forward for me.

Thank you Noel, I need to get out of the habit of buying because I don't have a lathe, I ordered one this morning, never occured to me to make one...plus I have some of Clives tendancies to collect tools! But appreciate the offer all the same.

PS in my book all the mills have to be the same make if you are to call it a collection, but you get an extra mark for trying (-;

Cheers

Chris.

Good morning all, and thank you all so much for this very helpful and interesting info. As a trained woodworker I'm well used to using collets in wood routers and find the cutters can slip. I figured the forces cutting metal would be greater and therefore the likely-hood of cutters creeping would be increased. Plus I was aware of cutters with threaded ends and had also noted the side lock holders in the Arc catalogue. I have ER20 & ER32 collets but was not aware you can get a Myford nose ER32 collet holder. I just looked that up and its most interesting. But it will still decrease my head height (and costs £80). Like-wise the the Autolock system and even the Arc type of side fix holders. So taking all this on board I will invest in a collet closing tube and try out the Myford collets I have and see what occurs.

Thank you ALL again, this is most helpful and appreciated.

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you Michael and Noel. Actually I think having two is wise, one might break down after all! Mind you three would in my book be a collection, something to aim for perhaps!!

Seriously thought, autolock sounds interesting, the cutters screw in I take it? Did Myford make them?

Cheers

Chris.