Member postings for Mark Easingwood

Me Dad, who was born in East Yorkshire, but worked in various parts of the UK, including the Midlands, and London, often called 5 bob, or 25p, an "Oxford Scholar", or a "Dollar".

Whilst I was looking at something else on ebay, I came upon this book, if it's of interest to anyone.

** Yorkshire Patent Steam Wagon **

The one on the right, and the ratchet are mine, so a good 35 years old, the two Yankee's on the left were my Dad's, so they will be even older.

The one on the right has an Ash handle, which I made, as the original one came loose and started started revolving.

The colour on the ratchet is a shade darker than that on the Yankee. The Yankee colour looks similar to original Red Oxide paint. Although most of the coloured finish has gone, there still appears to be a clear gloss finish left. My best guess is they put a clear coat on before the colour coat, which may explain why the colour coat does not stay on.

We did have a much smaller Yankee type with a black handle, and a burgundy plastic handled ratchet, I can't find them 'tho, or maybe another family member has them.

These people **Chestnut** do a very good Black Ebonising Stain, an a Black Ebonising Aerosol, if you are going to do them black.

I totally agree with your reasoning, and shed memories. Having done similar to some of my Dad's tools.

This company supply industrial felt etc, and have information on types and grades on their website.

*LINK*

Hi Duncan,

The bowden type ones have a tapered thread, and fit mechanical film cameras. Digital cameras require either a wireless or plug in type. The plug in type fit into a mini jack plug on the camera, the wireless type usually work via an infra red receiver on the camera. Bad news is they must be compatible to your model of camera. The shutter button is in effect just a two position electrical switch, half press activates focusing motor, full press activates the shutter.

If your subject is fairly static, just use the self-timer, set it on it's shortest duration if it is possible to do so.

PS To all those who don't know, never connect any self powered device, or flash, to your camera, unless it is deemed compatible, as any extra voltage going back to your camera, over it's safe limit, will fry it's brain......

Hi Clive,

Ash is not as durable as Iroko, Sapele or Oak, but better than softwood, probably better if furniture is well treated, and dry stored over winter.

I think the export of Teak from Burma, now rebranded as Myanmar, is banned, although Teak is not on the endangered list. The plantation Teak, when available, is probably grown in Indonesia. The last time I saw Teak for sale, on a timber merchants list may be 20 years ago, and it was at least twice the price of Oak then, if memory serves.

Burmese Teak has joined Parana Pine, Brazilian Mahogany, Japanese Oak, Pitch Pine and others, the stuff of legend and old men's stories.

Most Lab benches had Teak tops, including all those miles of them in schools, probably gone up in smoke now, but if anyone happens upon any being removed, stake a claim.

Here are some from me Dad's stuff, including star drills. Never used 'em me'sen, but I spent a fair amount of time using plugging chisels and hacking knives as an apprentice joiner.

Does anyone know what the one on the left is? It is made by Priory, and has a centre hole and ejection slot, the teeth don't look suitable for masonry, neither does it look to have ever been used.

I agree with Jason, Iroko would be my first choice, you will need to buy it from a timber merchant or joinery manufacturer, waste of time trying DIY places or most mainstream builders merchants.

Sapele is another possibility, not as durable but a bit cheaper, same advice for short grain.

If you are machining it yourself, the dust from Iroko can be particularly unpleasant, and it can bend badly whilst being cut.

I always thought the 13 inch / 330mm supplied lengths was because that is 1 metre cut into 3 pieces, less cutting allowance.

KR Whiston...........let the cat out!

Happy New Year,

Just seen your build thread, looking good.

I have been in joinery manufacture for about 40 years, and had my own business for about 30 years, so this is my opinion on MDF etc.

MDF is available in standard, moisture resistant, exterior and fire resistant grades.

There is no noticeable difference in density in any of these grades. The moisture resistant, (mr), grade is always dyed green, either right through, or just the core for identification purposes. The standard and mr version soon swell and disintegrate if they get wet for any prolonged time. The more expensive exterior grade also requires all edges to be sealed if it is to survive prolonged exposure to water. There is a new kid on the block, which is described as extremely durable, and sold as Tricoya, not cheap but with a claimed durability, guaranteed for 50 years.

I have only ever seen HDF sold in 3mm thick sheets with a white/black or cream coloured finish on one face, it is used as a replacement for white faced hardboard. The denser deep rout MDF is, I think, only available in thicker boards. It is used because the “normal” thicker MDF boards can have an inner core made up of larger fibres, which don't leave a good finish when routered into.

All MDF is abrasive and blunts hand tools and HSS type spindle moulder tooling very quickly, TCT or even diamond coated tooling is required. TCT router cutters are ok to use, but do blunt quicker than when used on timber.

Thin Birch plywood is nice to use, but I think it is interior grade only, in thin sheets, and not moisture resistant or exterior grade.

Lawcris, Arnold Laver, Timbmet and Lathams are all good suppliers of MDF and Ply, depending where you live.

Solvent based contact adhesive is still available, not seen the really small tins or tubes for years, I think shops stopped selling them during the glue sniffing era in the 80's.

I have been using this solvent based, Link , own brand from, “Construction Chemicals”, the big name EVO-STICK is also available, but I am not convinced it is the same formulation as it used to be. It all goes off in the tin after its been opened, but sometimes it's still ok after a year or so! Water based is also available, but I haven't tried it. The red plastic spreaders are also a thing of the past.

Polyurethane glues, such as Gorilla glue, stick well, they don't care about a freezing cold workshop, (unlike PVA types), and are waterproof, but also messy, and possibly carcinogenic, via prolonged skin contact.

Hope some of this may be of interest. I am in East Yorkshire, if I can help by ordering anything for you, or cutting anything.

Mark.

Edited By Mark Easingwood on 05/01/2020 17:53:38

Hello, and thanks for the welcome messages.

I too am in Driffeld.

Hello all,

My name is Mark and I used to be into model engineering around 35 years ago, then life, other interests and starting a joinery manufacturing business, all meant there was no time!!

Earlier this year my Dad, who was a joiner, sadly died, and we have to empty his house in order to sell it. In his large shed still sits my Raglan LittleJohn Mk2 lathe, among lots of joinery tools, other tools and machinery. So this has spurred me on to sort out my garage, in order to move the lathe in, and to hopefully re-start this hobby.

Mostly my interests were/are in tooling and machinery rather than engines, but who knows. Other interests are photography, and woodwork.

Here is one I made 30 odd years ago, 3 MT with draw bar thread, no keyway, made from bright mild steel. Not sure if EN numbers for steel were invented back then, or at least I didn't know about them if they were!

Spanner flats or a tommy bar hole would be a good modification for me to make. I would suggest you make the end cap thin and flush fitting, as this allows you to work close to any obstacles on the part you are cutting, or close to the machine table/cross-slide etc. Not touched any engineering since the mid 1980's, just making a re-entry to to this hobby.