Member postings for old mart

The design of live centres differs widely, that one may only be dismantled by destroying the bearing. There will also be a thrust bearing behind the needle roller.

You may have to bore a steel plate or ring that will support the rotating end from the MT side and press the centre out.

Another way would be to make a replica of the front end, drill and fit a grease nipple and force grease through the bearings without further dismantling.

Edited By old mart on 14/03/2021 15:24:04

Edited By old mart on 14/03/2021 15:27:17

Edited By old mart on 14/03/2021 15:30:32

Years ago, I bought a Ballistic full suspension mountain bike frame. The bottom bracket had been welded on the wrong way round and on my first ride one side of the bottom bracket came loose. Fortunately I had self extracting bolts in the cranks and could tighten the bottom bracket enough to ride home. The bottom bracket, a Shimano XTR was treated to a little threadlock and gave no more trouble. Having right and lefthand threads counteracts the rolling forces which are present in bicycle cranks.

I believe that Italian bicycle bottom brackets have righthand threads both sides, so they may have a method of keeping them tight.

I have had good quality tooling from APT, they sell three grades of er collets. They also have a selection of carbide inserts available singly for hobbyists who do not want to buy boxes of ten.

**LINK**

Edited By old mart on 12/03/2021 18:38:11

3/4" X 16 happens to be a UNF thread, maybe you could get hold of a nut and modify that.

You will have to unscrew something to find out whether the threads are bsw or bsf.

No the model A is a bigger machine than the Sabel. Look at the "lathes UK" website.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/smartbrown/index.html

Edited By old mart on 11/03/2021 17:41:26

The model A has BSF threads rather than Whitworth and also BA in the smaller sizes. The spindle threads are 55 degrees.

I hope you can see whether the thread is left or right handed. Both of the mills I have dismantled had left hand threads.

Depending on the access, if you can reach it from above, then a tube with simple cutouts at the end would do.

I agree with the leaded bronze, gunmetal sae660, it machines better than most. It will require lubrication regularly, unlike sintered bronze bushes.

Old Cast Iron Weights Association.

Most lathe saddles have a lock at the front which should be used when parting off. These locks usually clamp the saddle down to the bed. I added a rear lock to the Smart & Brown saddle for two reasons. The forces are upwards when using a rear parting tool. The bed of the lathe is very worn, and I added a rear lock to make sure the saddle was not lifted. There has to be some allowance for the saddle guides to have some clearance or the saddle would never reach the right end of the bed where there is no wear.

Motorcycle steering head bearings suffer form brinelling as they only move a few degrees most of the time. Replacing the loose balls in the headstocks of older bikes with taper rollers reduces the problem, as the line contact is much greater than the balls had, but cannot cure the brinelling entirely. When a bike is MOT'd, the tester feels for play and the notchy feel in the straight ahead position of the steering.

Bad luck with the holder, I have mostly used mild steel, or sometimes EN24T / EN19T if there was a need for extra strength.

The supplimentary clamp would indeed improve the stiffness. Could you see if a rear lock for the saddle is feasible?

Edited By old mart on 07/03/2021 20:07:00

The Inverterdrive Supermarket have a pdf of the quickstart guide for that model VFD.

**LINK**

Careful, you may incur the wrath of the OCIWA.

The spelling errors are to prevent legal action. Even in China, there have been lawsuites against counterfeit goods. Big names like Kennametal and Henkel (Loctite) have factories there and will protect their copyrights.

The price of a genuine fixed steady for the Smart & Brown model A is so high that I bought a hardly used chinese one with a 4" through hole and cut the base off and bolted it to an Aluminium base for the lathe. This had nice bronze tipped cylindrical fingers, so when I fancied roller ends, I made a second set for the steady. Little sealed ball races are easy to get hold of and having the choice is handy.

I bought a set of the cheap collets and found two things. Firstly, they were not very good, and secondy, there are many sizes that never get used on a mill. Now I use 3,4,5,6,8,10,12 and 16 er25 collets bought separately from APT, and also the Vertex brand. I would be unhappy if the runout was over 0.025mm, (0.001" tir.

The multiple editing has failed to get a righthand bracket to stay when I "save changes". So the wink is here to stay.

Edited By old mart on 06/03/2021 15:35:54

Edited By old mart on 06/03/2021 15:36:13

Edited By old mart on 06/03/2021 15:36:52

Edited By old mart on 06/03/2021 15:39:33

If your Miluloyo works ok, it is good value for £16, a real one would be three or four times as much. If you drop it, there won't be as many tears.

I agree wilh Journeyman about choosing an R8 spindle, it is a proper mill design, not a drilling machine one.