Member postings for old mart

Check that the jaws are a good fit in their slots, the slots in the body might have been strained, and a close look at the scroll is a good idea. There is a chance that your lathe could take a slightly bigger chuck, I'm sure somebody could advise the maximum usable size.

I have to ask, but are you using the compound slide?

I have used it with cement on a syringe made for injecting it. Without a small ammount of plasticiser, it would be impossible to use. PVA adhesives are also useful in the cement mix, it enhances the adherance to older concrete.

If you ever get an opportunity to visit the museum at Amberley, West Sussex, they have some old radios amongst their collections, well worth a visit.

If you do try aluminium, then a tiny bit of WD40 spray to keep it damp will avoid it sticking to the tools. As mentioned, brass is messy, mild steel is a better bet. Get a book on turning and milling, it will get you off to a better start.

You might as well forget the threaded stem and just get a plain one with a clamp on top. You can get spacers to raise the handlebar clamp, if you do, then don't cut the fork tube to length first.

First, try googling "installing bicycle forks", there are many helpful answers.

Edited By old mart on 24/05/2021 14:47:00

You will have to measure the chuck diameter and all of the jaw dimentions especially the tooth pitch. Look carefully on ebay for a match. It may be easier to chuck the chuck and replace it with a new one from somewhere like ARC.

There is no accounting for taste. A well used phrase and absolutely true.

660 is leaded gunmetal and is easy to get hold of and quite easy to machine.

I looked at your mill specs and as long as there is clearance for the drive hanging below the bed at the right hand side the weight is not going to be a problem. Move the bed to its extreme left end and look before committing yourself. The weight of the common type on ebay is 6Kg.

Edited By old mart on 24/05/2021 14:28:25

If you are concerned with buying from an unknown source, you could try this firm, I have bought several bearings from them and can recommend them.

**LINK**

That old drill in the first picture is probably less likely to electrocute anybody now than if it was still being used as a drill.

It was probably a genuine mistake as Dave Halford thinks.

The nearest PYE radio I have been able to find a picture of which bears a resemblance and has push buttons is the G10 of 1948 vintage. Our one had a PYE logo on the front but not the big type covering the speaker. It was a superhet, but that was common. Not every one listed has a photo unfortunately.

It amazes me just how many style variations there were over the years, and PYE was only one of many manufacturers.

I saw pictures of a small lathe made in a prisoner of war camp in the far east, it was a work of art. I can't remember any other details.

Hi, Robin, welcome to the forum. Until the early 60's we had a PYE radio with pretuned push buttons for some of the popular stations on medium and long wave. I have looked through dozens of pictures of PYE radios on the internet and have never seen the one we had at home. It caught fire in about 1962 and was dumped.

The best I can do on the subject of make do and mend during the second world war are a line of antitank blocks near Crondall in Hampshire. Because there was a shortage of shuttering to cast the concrete, they were built of brick and the concrete poured inside.

Unfortunately for you, all Colchester parts on ebay, for instance seem to be extremely expensive. The price for a refurbish on an old lathe is so much that it could run into 5 figures.

I have one somewhere, they were quick to use, but you had to be able to know the approximate answer before using one as there was no decimal point. Log tables were more accurate, but when the electronic calculator came out, they were both finished. Even my cheap solar powered Casio's have 8 digits. When calculators were a new thing, I bought a desktop Sharp for £20 and was glad when my boss bought it off me for that much. It even had a percentage button and memory buttons.

The bomb winch idea has the most merits as far as I can see, I would that as the hooks are of simple design, they are for a vertical application rather than horizontal. Lifting something other than bombs is likely and fine adjustment as in the engine fitting sounds good as well. I would tend to think that the tool was intended to be used in a clean enviroment inside a building most likely.