Member postings for old mart

It's always a good idea to lock the saddle when parting off, and set your compound for minimum overhang. Also make sure the compound gibs are preventing any noticable play.

When I made a rear parting off block for industrial blades, I added a rear lock to the saddle so not only are there 2 locks, but the only play will be in the cross slide.

If they are to be fitted to the end of a leaf spring, you are not fitting inside a tube, but in a open ended spring which can stretch. That means that the interference can be much greater, but the bush would need a chamfer. At least 0.080" or 2mm would probably work. Rubber bushes are used in more up to date vehicles.

I agree with Clive, Loctite and a sliding fit will cause no distortion and be easy to assemble.

At the same time as I bought the drill set, I also noticed a box of the telescopic mirror and magnet with the built in light which I already have at home, they are so cheap and useful I got another set to take to the museum.

Happy new year to you, Jacques, your English is better than my French, so you are forgiven for mixing up balls and rollers.

I bought a set of slot and tenon Toolmex jaws some years ago very cheaply which did not fit the chuck I had thought they would. If you post the dimensions of your worn ones and they match, I will send them to you FOC.

Sneak into the kitchen and steal an old flan case to cut up.

I have one of those little weather stations from Lidl which have a radio controlled clock, inside and outside temperatures, air pressure and a hygrometer. The temperatures and pressure are accurate as I can verify them against other instruments I have, so the hygrometer is probably quite good as well.

Alan and I took the bed and Y axis of the museum's drill mill to bits yesterday. The leadscrews are in good condition, but the design of the nuts leaves a lot to be desired. Until now I have not been able to contemplate redesigning the nuts as none of the UK suppliers that I know of had laydown inserts in 2.5mm trapezoidal in their stocklists. Last week, I had another try on ebay and found external and internal 2.5mm pitch in stock from China. A box of ten er16 internal cost £19 so I have ordered some. The reason for taking the mill to bits was to assess the possibilities of fitting an antibacklash design. I needed to know the nut dimensions and find out if there was room to accomodate bigger nuts. The Y axis will be easy as there is a lot of space to the front of the nut and unused leadscrew threads on the winding handle side. The X will have to be assessed in the new year to find out whether a longer nut might restrict the travel. I made rough drawings of possible nuts and found that a block of sae660 gunmetal would be very expensive, so any nuts made will be from barstock and have bodies made from mild steel.

I will keep you posted when things start to happen.

I bought a box of the drills today and they look ok for general use and sort of split point from 5mm upwards. You do get a lot of drills for the money. Unfortunately, both of the only two remaining boxes had the metal clasp missing, so I will have to be careful with the box.

No idea what make it is, but it might have a use on a drilling machine.

I dont think you would need to. If you are worried, then remake them in en19T or en24T but it would make very little difference.

It may well be shop made and coloured with gun blue. I like the pivot design with the SHCS to do the clamping. Neil has a thread showing how to post photo's running at the moment which will explain for you. You might need a mill to be able to make additional toolholders.

 And welcome to the forums.

Edited By old mart on 25/12/2021 15:20:33

Edited By old mart on 25/12/2021 15:22:34

It's very likely Rotagrip that I got my length of tee section which was probably 300m long.

Seasons Greetings to all members and viewers where ever you come from.

Welcome, Joshua, you definitely have joined a good forum, not only are there steam engine experts, but Myford ones too.

I bought a length on ebay from one of the well known suppliers and its ok, but I prefer to make my own which fit the tee slots better and bears on the outboard ends of the tee. Mine are 50% longer than the ready made ones.

Homemade gunpowder, weedkiller (sodium chlorate) and sugar and calcium carbide bombs, I tried them all, and when I was in electroplating we made ammonium tri iodide, that was fun.

I have just looked at the mill on "lathes UK" and it is very nice, but is an industrial machine with cat40 tooling. You will need a lot of space and as the speed is low, you will have to be patient with smaller tooling as your feed rates will have to be low. If the vertical head is included it would be a bonus, as they make the machine easier to manage for smaller jobs.

If you have a choice at the time, always choose R8, This forum has frequent threads with stuck Morse tapers in mills as they do not often have the extraction slot that drilling machines have. It is easy to get R8 tooling with MT2 sockets, both tanged with an extraction slot and plain which require a drawbar in the appropriate size which is easy using studding and nuts.