Member postings for old mart

If you have a mill, you could machine the painted surface flat between the toolpost and the leadscrew nut end and drill and tap to hold a piece of 12mm ground steel plate on top. Using about 5 off 5mm SHCS with their heads counterbored flush on each side of the casting. If it is possible to accommodate a lower toolpost, the plate could extend the whole length of the cross slide.

When your hands are as arthritic as mine, you will have trouble even holding the screwdriver.

You need a dial with 100 divisions for your 10 tpi leadscrew, to read in thousandths of an inch. It may be possible to fit a digital scale and not have to worry about the thread pitch.

The original desk clamp screw is at the top of the column, connected to a 10mm tee nut in the table slots. With the extension on the left of the table for the X axis wheel, there are further opportunities to move the mount just off the end of the table. The mount fits just as easily at the right hand end of the table.

We made a cheap and cheerful guard which will do for most jobs, the 6mm polycarbonate guards are quick dedachable and can be bade any size and shape. The modified mount is for a pc monitor.

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We pretty well finished putting a handle on the left end of the X axis leadscrew. The aluminium spacer needs to be cut a little shorter.

The chalk at Portsmouth is at Portsdown hill, about 2 miles North of the harbour which is alluvium.

I have 1.8, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5 and 4mm screws in stock, all bought on ebay, very cheaply. I have never had one break, but they slip from my fingers all too easily when changing inserts.

I wonder how many people alone in their workshop stop to think how long it would take for help to arrive if a bad accident did occur?

In areas affected by tidal movements, it would be normal to have machinery sitting on separate foundations to reduce flexure. At the museum, we are on deep soft claylike soil and the building shakes when the Smurfitt Capa articulated lorries next door are passing. This is despite the floor being at least 150mm fibre reinforced concrete. I don't think the lathe is affected much, as it is 3/4 ton and only 20" between centres.

That's one up on a bakers dozen.

Looking at DD'S machine, I notice what looks like an extraction slot for Morse taper tooling, does this mean there is no drawbar?

The Skeeter helicopter from the 50's was powered by a Gypsy Major 140 engine. The engine was originally a French design with all metric threads. The engines had all their fasteners with the metric threads, but the heads of nuts and bolts had Whitworth spanner sizes, as the Air Ministry was not willing to buy metric spanners.

OBA is not interchangeable with M6.

Edited By old mart on 28/11/2019 20:50:04

The plate on the side of a new Mitsubishi I looked at said made in China. My Schneider is made in Indonesia, I chose it simply on the basis of its waste heat output at maximum power was lower than my other shortlisted ones.

I never got as far as a digital index, although cheap digital calipers are a good source. We did some engraving on the quill and an 0- 125 movable scale by the wheel.

I eventually chose a Schneider 0.75 Kw to power a 1hp six pole 935rpm motor in delta. The VFD is programmed to run from 25 to 75 Hz which gives from 467 to 1402 rpm, about 3:1 ratio.

I've no idea how this post doubled up. 

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Edited By old mart on 26/11/2019 16:31:43

Edited By old mart on 26/11/2019 16:36:40

I eventually chose a Schneider 0.75 Kw to power a 1hp six pole 935rpm motor in delta. The VFD is programmed to run from 25 to 75 Hz which gives from 467 to 1402 rpm, about 3:1 ratio.

**LINK**

This forum has frequent cries for help by people who have an inverter, but no easy way to program it, they end up with a messy compromise. Good luck to them if they don't do any research and plump for the cheapest. I did a lot of research and have an inverter which works exactly as I wanted and has switches which are appropriate for a machine.

The inverter drive supermarket is not the cheapest, but has the choice of hundreds of inverters, and some have an invaluable extra, their own printable pdf of a quick start guide. This gives a variety of remote switch wiring and the easy programming for the most useful setup. If you want to struggle with an unintelligible set of instructions, then go ahead and buy cheap, I was glad I paid a bit more.

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That comb looks like it is for horses.

You seem to be ticking all the right boxes with coolant and tooling, I think the material may be wrong. These threads always seem to benefit in more than one way. I had no idea that MGMN inserts were available in H01 grades, now I have a box of Korloy MGMN 300-M H01 on order and a box of cheap Chinese MGMN 200-G H01, thanks to Jason B's post.