Member postings for old mart

Dead right about the special holders for the unused corners. They have their limitations however, you cannot cut up to a face, that is why I have never bought any. I have one holder for the square inserts which I only use for 45 degree chanfering.

The only WNMG 06 inserts on sale at the moment on ebay suitable for aluminium are Iscar ones, not expensive for first quality, but not in the cheap sector.

**LINK**

The WNMG 06 inserts will fit holders down to 12mm square.

**LINK**

You can get a pretty good idea of the tram accuracy by studying the finish on that plate you have faced.

The possibility of getting customs duty, VAT and the Post offices fee added to the cost always discourages me from spending too much on these imports. If they want to sting me one day, I will politely tell them to keep it.

A large percentage of my purchases on ebay are from private individuals, who do not necessarily list their items in the most logical way. Only scanning through huge numbers of listings more or less at random will stand any chance of seeing them.

A year or so back, one of the well known UK based suppliers was listing reamers individually in increments of 0.01mm. Their listings ran into thousands and swamped ebay. Fortunately that has stopped, maybe they now allow the purchaser to order the size they want.

I am attracted to things that are a bit out of the ordinary.

As for supporting UK based suppliers, I do and a lot of my Chinese and Indian tooling comes through these middlemen.

Have you got an impact driver, the kind with the 1/2" square drive? Mine has an adaptor which takes flat screwdriver bits up to 1/2" wide.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kennedy-15-PCE-Impact-Driver-Set-1-2-SQ-DR/112730741550?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1a3f469b2e:g:K7oAAOSwkWddgmZF&enc=AQAEAAACQBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qV88O3O6t24xJzsxyj438jwJM5r6gl2FLday8qB0ZdZkXymx9VMolMoEOj35xGDCfopILu0UTkgMzzSHxCQN5dp6wVK%2BF6qlzi4UG7gyrnL02s8RAU5njp11EtK17CcnT0YyuAhpr317QkSoLefsqRuXkUOSkbugIIq%2BXvXTj7Vr7YAUfP4L3A%2FOXk%2FnISEamK%2FSmyc3IMtJXVO%2BJRCOdO14lNUBWPkpaigLZIr0jx%2B%2Fdf7Fv5Ou3ldDJpjMhHi%2BhT4NpoiVeBPN699KJuLbvmWmzujE1A2QmryHcE8hVkDJFn6kxdVFp1%2FF6SyQBaZy%2Fe2giHOF8QqNkyr%2Fc34boPKeX0o5lVNp4e7SyTDvWfYS6AMOMC%2FTNhU7n1fQGbT1dgQbmtJUQE3PKM8PDQboxaxBJpBseEfxzKLLZP6aCO7hyuSgwUwOxjQ7Kkr8umsAz4Xhp6b5pZWx61%2Ba%2B8tO0RDwNcXRfgbkcbr0Zi0WC9LKcnXE6%2BMpK9R2xDJ%2F73jVbgzVMvUILIx1AYmgDmaZewlj8U1wYPTUCjeqqY6Tbagl%2FkKhLr4zI4BGS48o5l%2F0Y7yYVFfpsQe4m7hhXQlyJwUvGF5vHLqc1NDg0zPYElsw5%2Fx6EGrAXYATC3bEr9kN0K7WkEbePZPribiamqjg8j8eZRJ7L9DIeDr0rLczJYRDPGXx3F%2F2TfODi8o0as2iKk%2FHwEr2OHxIFv4eKSf5uP11aqrGuhBPFHuEp5hQaDWQw%3D%3D&checksum=112730741550f8563f1753b0446792ca5b271601950c&enc=AQAEAAACQBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qV88O3O6t24xJzsxyj438jwJM5r6gl2FLday8qB0ZdZkXymx9VMolMoEOj35xGDCfopILu0UTkgMzzSHxCQN5dp6wVK%2BF6qlzi4UG7gyrnL02s8RAU5njp11EtK17CcnT0YyuAhpr317QkSoLefsqRuXkUOSkbugIIq%2BXvXTj7Vr7YAUfP4L3A%2FOXk%2FnISEamK%2FSmyc3IMtJXVO%2BJRCOdO14lNUBWPkpaigLZIr0jx%2B%2Fdf7Fv5Ou3ldDJpjMhHi%2BhT4NpoiVeBPN699KJuLbvmWmzujE1A2QmryHcE8hVkDJFn6kxdVFp1%2FF6SyQBaZy%2Fe2giHOF8QqNkyr%2Fc34boPKeX0o5lVNp4e7SyTDvWfYS6AMOMC%2FTNhU7n1fQGbT1dgQbmtJUQE3PKM8PDQboxaxBJpBseEfxzKLLZP6aCO7hyuSgwUwOxjQ7Kkr8umsAz4Xhp6b5pZWx61%2Ba%2B8tO0RDwNcXRfgbkcbr0Zi0WC9LKcnXE6%2BMpK9R2xDJ%2F73jVbgzVMvUILIx1AYmgDmaZewlj8U1wYPTUCjeqqY6Tbagl%2FkKhLr4zI4BGS48o5l%2F0Y7yYVFfpsQe4m7hhXQlyJwUvGF5vHLqc1NDg0zPYElsw5%2Fx6EGrAXYATC3bEr9kN0K7WkEbePZPribiamqjg8j8eZRJ7L9DIeDr0rLczJYRDPGXx3F%2F2TfODi8o0as2iKk%2FHwEr2OHxIFv4eKSf5uP11aqrGuhBPFHuEp5hQaDWQw%3D%3D&checksum=112730741550f8563f1753b0446792ca5b271601950c

Edited By old mart on 06/01/2020 17:57:03

Edited By old mart on 06/01/2020 17:58:12

Fortunately, it doesn't matter if the head runs a few thou out, the tip will always run in line with the spindle. A threaded adaptor with the bolt holes and the M16 thread in it should work pretty well, as long as you always rotate it the right way. That link was for an ISO30, I don't know the differences between the BT, INT and ISO variations. 

I wonder if the body could be threaded M16 directly, or is it too hard?

Edited By old mart on 05/01/2020 22:18:32

Have you checked the Henkel website?

**LINK**

The only think that might be the basis for an adaptor is this;

**LINK**

When you put it back together with a small amount of lithium grease (not moly grease) there needs to be the tiniest bit of preload. The only way to check that the preload is not too high is to run the machine and check the temperature of the area near the bottom bearing. If it gets more than luke warm with the fingers after ten minutes, then reduce the preload a tiny bit and retest. At maximum speed it should run all day without getting hot.

There should be some sort of shield to stop swarf jumping up into the bottom bearing.

Yes, I cannot see any alternative to the hot forging of the bore, followed by conventional turning and grinding of the outside. It probably doesn't matter if the taper is not perfect, after all it is going to house damaged tapers anyway. 

The slot would probably have to be extra long if some tangs were missing.

Edited By old mart on 05/01/2020 19:31:55

I will look into the advanced options to see if I can exclude them.

As for the Loctite being cheap, it is now made in China and is definitely genuine. The inflated prices we were used to are now a thing of the past. It is now cheaper than genuine printer ink!

You have just highlighted the main reason why I am still using the original four way toolpost on the Smart & Brown model A. It can hold two tools securely, not 4, that's a joke, and as all the tools are the same height, no shimming is required.

I have made a second toolpost for the lathe which can hold a 12mm shank boring bar, (there are several solid carbide shank ones to choose from with different style and grade of inserts), and also, a 26mm parting blade, both with close to zero looseness.

I get most of my bargains from scanning ebay regularly for lathe and mill tooling and similar. At the moment there is one particular seller who is making life difficult for any potential buyers.

Based in Italy, it is easy to see which firm is causing the problems.

1. Their prices equal or exceed the full commercial value.

2. They have a small number of variations in their very high postage rates which stands out.

3. They are currently listing over 13000 items which are hard to avoid.

4. So far in the last couple of months at least, they have sold less than 900 items.

What do you think, am I right to rant?

At the museum, we have some Rocol soluble oil for diluting. We mix at 10% which is stronger than normal, but reduces the problem of fungus when the oil is old. We have not used the pumped coolant in the lathe, but prefer to use a squeezy bottle. Most of our turning is done dry for steel except for drilling and parting off as we usually use carbide inserts.

Edited By old mart on 05/01/2020 18:13:59

I still cannot see how that hole was produced, grinding would not do it as there are no rads on the interface between the taper and the flat.

It looks like a much smaller chuck was fitted as the original holes are there further out. I cannot believe that the manufacturers would have drilled so close to the spindle thread diameter, shop bodges vary greatly in in design and who knows what was going through the mind of the person who did it. I'm sure it will work well enough for a vintage machine which will now be used with more care than it received in the past.

I would bet on there being a slot in the back, why, because there is light showing in the photograph.

Incidentally, the tang on Morse tapers is not intended to provide drive torque, that's what the taper is for. 

I would be interested to find out how that tapered hole with a flat was produced, magic maybe.

Edited By old mart on 05/01/2020 15:12:46

Edited By old mart on 05/01/2020 15:15:22

The lathe gets semi synthetic 5W40 motor oil for everything, and both mills with taper roller spindles are greased with Lithium grease which is also used in car wheel bearings. The slideways of the mills get slideway oil and the leadscrews get spray motorcycle chain grease.                                                                                                                Plain bearings can be oiled or greased, but sintered bronze, being porous, is better off with a little oil from time to time which soaks into the surface far better than grease.

I would avoid Three In One oil, unless just for wiping on to surfaces with a rag to temporally rust proof them. WD40, AC90 Plus Gas and the like are good for penetrating oils and on aluminium when it is being turned or milled to stop it welding to the cutting tools. I use CT90 tapping oil when cutting threads, single pointing on the lathe, or when using taps and dies. I also oil my throat with Badger beers.

Edited By old mart on 05/01/2020 15:04:26

Its made in Iowa, so it could be anything. I notice the name is "use em up", I wonder if it is designed to salvage scrap MT3 tapers by grinding a flat on them? It could be worth asking on The home shop machinist forum.

Edited By old mart on 04/01/2020 21:25:16