Member postings for old mart

Assuming you are using a remote pot, can you remove it altogether and revert to the built in control?

What lubricant did you use?

It would be a good idea to dismantle the apron and thoroughly clean and re lubricate everything.

Since the original Myford collet system is so expensive, and my er25 suggestion seems to have been overlooked, I will repeat the link:

**LINK**

Looks like this Saturdays launch is expected at 20:22, I would think it will be too early in the day to be visible from Blighty.

A nice machine and it has a tiny milling/positioning table. It will be quite safe using the threaded spindle, but as already mentioned, the bearings are not up to heavy milling, which is why I only recommended a maximum 3/8" cutter size. Always lock the quill when taking X and Y cuts. Only use the MT2 for drilling. A better 3" vise is needed, that one will not clamp securely enough.

Welcome, Paul, this is a great place to get info on stream engines and also your machine tools, lots of new blood joining every week.

To do a very basic check of the leadscrew nut engagement, without the lathe switched on, you can move the saddle slowly right or left, and at the same time try to engage the nuts with the apron lever. The saddle will be locked as soon as the nuts engage if that is working correctly.

If that is ok, then you should be able to move the saddle right and left by turning the leadscrew handle.

The engagement of the leadscrew nuts means that much more torque is needed to turn the leadscrew which is now having to move the entire saddle weight. This is why the leadscrew may turn on its own but not turn when the nuts are engaged. A safety frangible link is used in the leadscrew mechanism on most lathes to lessen the damage caused by pile ups. and this may be slipping. 

There is plenty of info on Myford lathes on "lathes UK".

Edited By old mart on 28/05/2020 17:38:43

This might work if the Myford thread on the drill is male.

**LINK**

Because of the interrupted cut and side forces during milling, a drawbar is used to hold the tooling in the spindle. Drilling forces are mostly axial and a drill press is not really safe to be used for milling. If you can find adaptors for the Myford thread to hold er25 collet holders, you could probably get away with up to 3/8" cutters. It does depend on the tightness of the quill and the spindle bearings. The er25 can take up to 16mm, but they are rather big for a drill press.

Edited By old mart on 28/05/2020 17:08:04

Cracks would only show to the naked eye in a machined part if they were very big. Everything my firm made for aircraft was tested, usually non ferrous was dye penetrant checked, and ferrous was magnetically tested. Dye penetrant can be used at home, but the magnetic is much more involved and the kit costs thousands. Polishing or buffing of the surface will tend to disguise any cracks present and should be carried out after crack testing.

https://www.johnsonandallen.co.uk/product/dye-penetrant-inspection-consumables-kit

Edited By old mart on 28/05/2020 16:55:03

I also have the style made for tanged tooling like tailstock drill chucks. I once tried to remove the restriction with a solid carbide drill and ruined the drill. The link in my earlier post is for the through bore type.

To do what you want to do in a hobby setting rather than industrially, 1 1/2 hp will get the job done, it just takes more time. It would be best to get the material cut to length rather than trying to part off that diameter. Turning round the stock to machine the other side would be better done in an independent 4 jaw chuck. They do take more effort learning how to set them up, but it will all be worth it in the long run.

You need to get a lot of practice in before cutting metal for the hubs, especially the threading. A metric lathe not an imperial one is what you need.

Edited By old mart on 28/05/2020 14:20:17

Threading and using Loctite as recommended by GW would work, it would take more than the strength of the hands to break the bond. 270 would do.

If you get the ARC adaptor, you will have to make a suitable length drawbar with the Clarkson threads, there is no other way around this. A length of 12mm studding with nuts at the top and the lower end turned down to the Clarkson thread would be the easiest way. The middle part of the studding might have to be reduced in diameter to clear the spindle bore, as the standard bore for 7/16 UNF might be tight.

**LINK**

Edited By old mart on 28/05/2020 14:01:00

Well, it was a slim chance, especially as my garden has trees all round it.

Ha ha, no chance at all if they are still sat on the ground.  

Edited By old mart on 27/05/2020 22:00:20

I have just read that the Space X rocket may be visible from the UK at 21:33 this evening in the South West.

The second part of a Horizon documentary has been aired recently, and is worth watching if you can get it.

When I converted the Tom Senior light vertical to R8 from MT2, I changed the single phase 1/2hp motor for a 1hp three phase one. The mill has only four speeds by belt, so I have programmed the VFD running it for 25-75 Hz which gives a total speed range of 7.5. We always make the effort to change the belt positions to take advantage of the best torque available, as I felt that 1hp was in the sweet spot for the machine.

Increasing the M300 to its higher design speed will make smaller diameter work easier, but still having a low backgear speed of 40rpm.

ARC sell half centres to allow more clearance. I would also have cheated the same way as Duncan.  

**LINK**

Edited By old mart on 27/05/2020 15:38:46