Member postings for old mart

It looks similar to my bicycle rolling head, the rollers do roll. I have only used mine to increase the length of an existing threas. The instructions say run the dies along the thread twice. It works well on DT Swiss stainless spokes common on mountain bikes.

With that ammount of length verses diameter, you may have to work in stages, only having about 7mm projecting from the collet at a time.

Another way would be to clamp a block of aluminium, or brass about 30mm thick in the milling vise and drill a hole of the same diameter as the rod through it. Leave the X and Y axes stationary, and put the rod in a collet and using plenty of lubricant use the hole as a steady and reduce the diameter as the spinning rod is slowly withdrawn. Figuring out a way to hold a cutting tool is another matter.

It would not be much easier in a lathe because the length is 8 times the diameter.

Edited By old mart on 13/12/2020 20:16:49

I have a hand thread roller for extending the threads on certain gauges of bicycle spokes, it uses three axels which are canted at the thread helix angle with little rollers on them.

I haven't seen the ebay ones, you will have to post a link, or the number.

I've found a useful site for collets which is worth bookmarking.

**LINK**

I have an er25 version on a backplate, of course, the register is loose for fine adjustment, after all, if the register is tight, you have to put up with whatever runout each collet gives.

You can buy them with a choice of 80, or 100mm outside diameters.

Edited By old mart on 13/12/2020 19:08:12

I have an excellent bowsaw in the shed with Sandvik in big letters on it. It's hopeless at cutting metal.

Edited By old mart on 13/12/2020 18:49:22

It is common for people converting to CNC from manual to replace the leadscrews and nuts with ballscrews to minimise backlash.

Sandvik don't only make tooling for metalwork. If you google "EOC16 collets" there are many hits, mainly concerning woodworking routers, most of which nowerdays are CNC.

**LINK**

It would be a good idea to look through the bore sizes of the collets and make sure a good range of sizes is present before looking for a 30 holder for them. The holders are available, but probably expensive.

Edited By old mart on 13/12/2020 14:50:31

If you have compressed air in your workshop, then one of the extended nose die grinders are worth looking at. I bought a Silverline brand one which cost just over £20 and it is much better than my old windy drill setup. The extension is about 3/4" diameter which makes it easy to manufacture a block of aluminium to hold it in the toolpost.

I didn't say you were any good with reamers, just that you could "light lube".

Thats a very nice table, It will be pretty heavy, so you could make a lifting handle that clamps in the tee slots. I have enough weight in a 6" table for my arthritic joints, I always check that the space in the cupboard reserved for it is free before lifting it off the mill bed.

 The threaded nut which is split where the locking setscrew sits allows the threads to move apart, changing their pitch to lock on the male thread One side of the split has the screwhole and the other side is undrilled.

Edited By old mart on 12/12/2020 21:20:53

Edited By old mart on 12/12/2020 21:25:43

Before you make your mind up, have a close look at your cutters, they often look sharp from a distance. Also the size range, as I said, the er25 goes to 16mm, and the er 32 goes to 21mm.

I have a cantilever toolbox with about 500 threaded shank milling cutters from 1/16" to 7/8" and every one would require sharpening before it was any use on a mill.

I don't know how a resharpened reamer would work. I suppose you could use a test piece and then measure the reamed holes and then mark the sizes on the reamers for future reference. Be careful measuring reamers, I would rather use a carbide tipped micrometer than risk the softer jaws of calipers, unless they were cheap ones. Even so, the reamed hole is likely to be slightly different to the measured size. I did a lot of reaming during my job as a fitter with aircraft components and there are ways of getting a reamer to produce different size holes. Lots of cutting oil will cut a smaller hole than a light lube from an oily rag. Most people will get a bellmouthed hole with a hand reamer.

I had never thought of tramming a mill head using a co axial indicator. I would have thought that a ground flat precision plate would be needed on the mill bed because of the tee slots.

Using a lever type dti with a mirror is one of the principal reasons for having a co axial indicator.

Edited By old mart on 12/12/2020 17:52:54

Thats interesting, is that the size to match the collets that the op has?

We had some 25mm Sandvik lathe tools at the museum before we had a mill, and I cut the first down by hand with a hacksaw and rubbed it to the tool height of 17.53mm by hand. It was hard work, and the second one got turned to the thickness in a four jaw chuck. They still get used.

Passing from one tier to another is similar to hitting a ramp at roadworks.

I believe that it will be next to impossible to get a holder for these collets, as they are intended to be fitted directly to the machine spindle, which would be a dedicated industrial woodworking router.

Next time, just buy a 16mm square tool and mill it down to 12mm height.

You will be able to get a 30 taper to er collet holder which has the versatility to cope with most cutter shanks. ER25 Goes up to 16mm and er 32 to 21mm. It is not really worth getting a Clarkson Autolock, or Osborn Titanic, they can only hold threaded shank cutters, wheras the er type can hold on the plain part of threaded tools.