Here is a list of all the postings William Chitham has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Step Turning Carburettor Needles - Video |
17/03/2022 14:15:59 |
Posted by Gary Wooding on 17/03/2022 14:11:53:
The link doesn't work for me - indicates wrong address. Beg your pardon, should work now. W. |
17/03/2022 13:47:27 |
Nice video on Instagram showing step turning small diameter parts,which I believe is a topic that comes up from time to time on the forum: SWISS TOOL MAKER William. Edited By William Chitham on 17/03/2022 14:15:02 |
Thread: Hammer Handle Supplier?? |
09/03/2022 16:38:52 |
Posted by JasonB on 09/03/2022 16:18:45:
Zoro have a range and indicate the size of head the shaft (not handle) will suit, length in proportion to head size. And another supplier of shafts Thanks Jason, I've seen the Zoro range but I'm reluctant to buy without seeing the eye dimension. Zoro are particularly hopeless at properly specifying items in my experience. The other link is interesting as they are selling the Richard Carter handles, I have sent an email to them asking for dimensions. This is the only uk supplier I have found so far with the proper info but the the 16" one that would fit is too long for me: FAITHFUL This one in the states looks just the job, I'm sure I'll find one in the uk eventually: Hammersource William. Edited By William Chitham on 09/03/2022 16:39:50 |
09/03/2022 12:37:46 |
What a hilarious lot you are. I could make my own but time is short and ready made handles are inexpensive, probably cheaper than the material would cost. I expect to have to do some fitting but as far as I know you can't "shave up" a handle that is too small. If I "search correctly" I find many suppliers but very few that specify by eye size as well as length. Length isn't an adequate way to specify a handle. Richard Carter for example only quote length and apparently don't sell to consumers anyway. Handles are not cylindrical, a 16" hammer handle with 2" sawn off isn't a 14" hammer handle, it is a 16" handle with the end sawn off. The most important dimensions are of the eye but on consideration I think that I would prefer a handle 12" - 14" long. W. |
09/03/2022 11:37:04 |
Posted by KWIL on 09/03/2022 11:33:15:
There if you search correctly. "Wooden Tool Handles" This leads you to Richard Carter Ltd, a Huddersfiel company that makes every sort of wooden handle including club hammer ones!
Just found Rich Carter but they only specify by length, I've sent an email enquiry. I found a Faithful that is the right eye size but at 16" seems a bit long to me. W. |
09/03/2022 10:20:17 |
I have a 1lb ball pien hammer in need of a new handle. I've found lots of suppliers of wooden handles on line but none yet (outside the US) that specify the size properly by length and eye size. Mine has a 1"x3/4" oval eye, not too bothered about length. Any suggestions for a supplier? Thanks, William. |
Thread: Steel Blue recommendations |
05/03/2022 17:34:59 |
Plus one for Phillips Cold Blue. I use a similar process to the Grindstone Cowboy except I give parts a preparatory scrub with detergent and I warm the solution by standing the container in a larger bath of hot water while bluing (bain marie?), and I give the parts a rub over with Mansion House polish which produces a nice finish. Don't know about the rust inhibition but makes them smell nice for a few days. You can see the finish on this parting tool holder: |
Thread: CHATTER |
25/01/2022 14:20:40 |
Not saying a sharper tool won't help but what how did your set up actually change between the straight and tapered cuts? Have you done something to make the set up less rigid? Are you putting the taper on with the compound slide and if so is it now at a drastically different orientation to the work? I'd be looking at things that actually changed before concluding that the constant (ie the cutting tool) is at fault. William. |
Thread: Myford Steady on a Boxford |
23/01/2022 13:10:21 |
William. |
Thread: Lathe change gears vs gearbox |
21/01/2022 16:52:07 |
My Boxford started as a non gearbox "C" but I have since upgraded it to "A" spec which is a huge improvement - the convenience for threading is nice but the real benefit is being able to play with feed rates easily. If you do go for a Boxford I'd suggest you get one with as many extras as possible - especially steady rests, thread dial, t-slot top slide. Boxford bits seem to cost a fortune, far more than Myford as far as I can see. William. |
Thread: A nice find |
07/12/2021 09:56:42 |
The micrometers are nice but it is the box that really catches my my eye. I love the catches made from hinges but what are the dovetailed in pieces for?
William. |
Thread: Boxford ? |
15/10/2021 13:07:56 |
That's a Model A, looks nice. There should be a serial number on the right hand end of the bed where the tailstock is sitting in the photo. Have a look at lathes.co.uk for Boxford information, there is also a Boxford group on Facebook with lots of scanned documents and knowledge. William. |
Thread: Vfd and motor efficiency |
15/10/2021 10:31:31 |
Happy to help Martin, here are a some photos of my motor's innards showing the star connection and the finished job before varnishing. I bought the red varnish expecting something translucent but it was actually opaque, more like paint. If I did it again I'd go for the clear. As Andrew said the connection was soft soldered, it did take quite a bit of scrubbing with fine emery to clean the insulation off the winding ends to get a good joint on to the new tails. There are a couple more photos in my Meddings album. William. |
14/10/2021 14:46:06 |
I've just rewired an old Newman motor as described by Andrew. First one I've done and a bit nerve racking but it went ok. I found the star point was tied in on the same side the existing 3 tails came out, not surprising I suppose but for some reason I'd convinced myself it would be the other side so I ended up undoing all the binding unnecessarily. The windings and insulation are rather brittle once untied but I read somewhere that the existing varnish can be softened with a hot air gun and that worked really well making it possible to squash the revised wiring back into place ready to tie. I failed to find any of the special binding string within my patience span so I used cotton string but I found a supplier called Brocott who have the special varnish in small quantities and various other winding related supplies including the glass fibre sleeving. William. |
Thread: I need to cut chamfers into x64 pieces of mild steel - any advice? |
07/09/2021 12:56:15 |
I have skipped through this thread rather but if I have the gist of it correct then maybe this machine currently for sale on the Home Workshop **LINK**site might serve: For Sale: Gravograph bevelling machine
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Thread: Newman Motor Star To Delta? |
02/09/2021 14:27:21 |
Well here are the windings: and here are the instructions which emerged when I opened the case - these are the two sides of an oil soaked piece of paper so rather transparent but legible: I wonder why they would make two versions of the motor, with and without dual voltage. Some small cost saving i suppose. In a spirit of enquiry I think I will reassemble it and try at as is. If it is too feeble I'm pretty sure I'll be able to dig out the node and rewire it. The Steinmetz circuit looks interesting but I do want the VFD extras (reversing, speed control, jog) to make power tapping easier. William. |
01/09/2021 16:32:38 |
Posted by Steviegtr on 01/09/2021 15:51:13:
William, may I ask why you are wanting Delta. Steve. Normal 3 phase is 400-440v. The "synthetic" 3 phase from a VFD is 230v. Most 3 phase motors can be configured to run on either voltage - star for 400v or delta for 230v ("dual voltage" motors) and this is usually made clear on the spec plate. Motors that are not intended as dual voltage, like this one, may or may not be easily converted depending on whether the node of the star is accessible or not. However, I had a conversation with the fellow at the Inverter Supermarket who pointed out that it the motor may run satisfactoraly at the lower voltage as is. Here is a link to an explanation of how that works: Basically the motor can be considered as a 230v 29Hz motor so will run at about 60% of normal RPM. Above 29Hz torque will drop off but that may not matter because one normally uses higher speeds for smaller drillbits which require less torque to turn. Definitely worth trying I think. William. |
31/08/2021 15:01:27 |
I have bought a 3 phase Meddings Driltru which I want to run on single phase. I'd like to use the original Newman motor with an inverter but unlike the motors on my lathe and mill which I have already converted the Newman is not marked as dual voltage and there are only three terminals under the plate. I have read that in such a case the necessary connections can sometimes be accomplished by dismantling the motor to get at the windings but sometimes this is not practical. Before I take mine to bits I thought I'd ask if anyone has experience of converting this particular type. Thanks, William.
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Thread: Boxford BUD Tool Post |
27/07/2021 09:56:20 |
Can't give you a dimension off hand but that 15mm seems very odd to me. On my CUD I regularly use 16mm shank tools so the top of the compound to centre height must be well over 20mm. I wonder if the compound or maybe the whole cross slide on your lathe is from a 5" model. William. |
Thread: Live Centre For A Boxford? |
13/07/2021 11:09:24 |
In conclusion, I ordered a "Precision Live Centre Morse Taper 2 Extended Point Standard Series" from APT. Arrived next day and quite happy so far. Solved the chatter problem I was having and no runout I can measure. The body is quite chunky, 45mm diameter, but the long point gives good tool access. |
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