Member postings for Pete White

Delivering fruit on friday night and a Sunday paper round at 14, plus doing other rounds when kids didn't turn up, good pay working 6 till 1, we used to actually collect the money in those days !

Holidays spent on egg and bacon farm, poultry and pigs, feeding and mending anything that was broken or falling apart.

As a 15 year old I was always at a small company that made electric fires, setting big presses and fly presses for the women and wiring three phase machines on my own, did get supervision when on guillotine work cutting panels.

I never had time to mess around on an x box even if they had been invented?

Oh.... and a worked part time at the local jewellers cleaning out the cuckoo clocks !!

Pete

I won't repeat what Paul said, sound good to me. Moved my L6 , Herbert 10 Adcock 1ES like that, used my ramps, blocked up rear of trailer solid and winched machines up on rollers. strapped ithem secure and away, less the rollers of course. The sheets of ply is the trick and saves damage to the trailer floor from crow bars!

I moved 2 of 3 L6s that I bought at auction 35 years ago that way, sold the third to a chap who collected from site with a skip lorry, no skip of course, a mate moved a big Colchester that way?

Pete

I must have been lucky these days, not encountered any hard bits as I can recall since making go - carts out of bed iron over 50 years ago.

Pete

How about a pilot hole, might help things out ?

Pete

Please tell me more Bazyle, 6mm is thick on reflection, thank you, so 5 or even 4mm then.

I am new to this rail stuff, don't understand,"one fixed axle", we are talking two bogies for a driving truck here, to manage long wheel base and tight radius corners ?

Input welcome, even thinking of acetal collars now for the bearings housings , bolted with a locating spigot into the laser cut holes in the frames?

Not looking for exhibition standard here, just some engineering, even with plastic? that is quick to build and works.

Pete

Pete

Thanks for the reply Paul. I intend to bore the holes on the mill, so was hoping to do one cut per hole, move the frame along onto a 28 mm dia location peg and then bore the other bearing seat?

I was hoping to get away with one set up of the boring head and was really trying to gauge how well my hs steel bit would stand up to 16 holes 12 mm deep?

Haven't got and never used a carbide boring cutter? Come to think of it, never used a boring head much, but don't want to mess up my lasered frames !

Pete

Edited By Pete White on 17/08/2020 13:34:19

Edited By Pete White on 17/08/2020 13:37:14

Edited By Pete White on 16/08/2020 23:02:57

Thanks for the reply Robert the material in mind is "ordinary ? " mild steel, ... just frames for garden loco items for the grandsons. Seem to remember oxy acetylene/propane cutting gave a hard surface skin?

Pete

Evening all,

I have in mind to get some bogie frames laser cut in 6 mm thick material. I will need to bore holes for the 28 mm dia bearing. So will lasered holes at 27.5 mm be ok ? An extra thickening ring will be added for the bearing seat.

I am worried that you get a tough layer on the lasered cut ?

Pete

That is good stuff, makes paint stick better than "anything" to blanket !

Yes I also believe, from my Landrover days, that hammerite do a primer for galv and ali.

I few months ago I painted a double up a over door in a paint by "Bradite", quality stuff. I am no painter but it went on a treat, one coat of a light green over purple, no runs. Very optimistic that it will perform well. My paint brand of choice now.

pete

Made me smile, brought back memories of an old mate who tought me a lot, once said hold on Pete when I was out of order, I have seen a drilling machine make grown men cry. ....

Respect, even more for my big radial woodwork saw !

Sorry for the intrusion but we all need a smile these days

Pete

Edited By Pete White on 03/08/2020 19:59:45

Thanks for the input both, the picture gets clearer. I like the roller idea Duncan.

I was expecting the drawing to be easier to follow. I can't remember having trouble reading a drawing before, but I have only been at it over 55 years?

Content apart I would have presented the drawing as a mirror image, as it would be made in the lathe?

I suppose this is a drawing of a left side wheel ?? !! lol

Pete

Solicitors should surely deserve a mention, making a simple job complicated and then charging £195 an hour, plus vat Gaaarrrrhhhhh, We perhaps need them sometimes but at a 25 % pay level.

Estate Agents, somehow also manage to make me challenge their worth and performance, or lack of it ? Forgot performance also applies to Solicitors who can't even be  be bothered to talk to you, once they have you on their hook.

lol to most of the posts.

Edited By Pete White on 31/07/2020 16:17:35

Thank you for your help here SOD and all the people who replied to the link referred to.

Many good points made and I now have a way forward. I have been on Libracad and now know how far to machine in from the wheel face, at a distance in (5/32) from the wheel tip with a radius on the tool, then work on the taper until it "looks right"

All help really appreciated, I was trying to work from the standard drawing !

Still don't understand the radius on the tip being specified at 0.038? lol. I thought someone would know why and how to achieve it ?

I will go and make some wheels now I think..............

Pete

Hi all think I am having a senior moment. I have been staring at the GL 5 drawing for wheel profile and don't quite see how to work from it without a lot of fiddling ?

I see the measurement to establish the tread diameter, from the overall wheel size but no reference to where the inner radius starts?

I see the with of "width of flange" ? which gives you a point on the 20 degree incline , don't see the point of this?

What am I missing here please? I could draw it out to find the start of the inner radius, but shouldn't be necessary

What is the significance of the tip radius i.e. 0.038?

Am I over thinking this?

Pete

Edited By Pete White on 30/07/2020 13:28:59

Edited By Pete White on 30/07/2020 13:30:51

Edited By Pete White on 30/07/2020 13:31:49

I have solved it, after much searching. .......Librecad , a spin off from Qcad.

Simply installed with " sudo apt install librecad " in the terminal window. Like all linux apps that I have tried on my chromebook seems to work well and icons appear on the menu screen. Very pleased with it all.

I have used Qcad for years, Linux but there is a Windozz version and been very happy. I am now searching for something that works on a chromebook ?

Fusion 360 hobbyist is not compatible with the Chromebook, sadly. Think I shall have to investigate installing sssssss

qcad, if nothing else turns up ?

Not heard of Mrchromebox, will check it out. Still with the chrome os, which I have not had a problem with, time will tell. I added some linux stuff but dont see a need for it? Qcad was my only issue to date, fusion should solve that I think?

I have been with Linux in various forms for over 15 years, a bit of work needed in early years, but Mint is now well sorted. Reason for Chromebook, were quick boot time and battery life and a dodgy keyboard on my aged laptop.

At the back of my mind was a security issue, which probably doesn't exist, may be not solve by opting from the chromebook ? Sold my soul to Google.

Pete

Thanks for the reply, looked at Fusion and note that a free subscription for one year is mentioned, is this renewable I presume?