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Member postings for Lee Jones 6

Here is a list of all the postings Lee Jones 6 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Milling a 45 degree 'v' slot
20/05/2020 21:01:13

Morris is a better machinest than I'll ever be!

20/05/2020 19:58:56

NB: This is the test piece (not full size).

Whose crazy idea was this:

img_20200520_193518.jpg

Let's see how this goes:

img_20200520_195320.jpg

20/05/2020 16:17:25

Sounds like I might be able to squeeze it in the Y - then I don't even need the vice.

It will mean hand feeding though. Old skool. laugh

20/05/2020 16:06:08
Posted by Tony Pratt 1 on 20/05/2020 15:33:29:

Tilt the head & hold the parts in a vice using a stop for repeatability.

Tony

Can't hold it in a vice in the correct orientation. It's too large.

20/05/2020 16:05:19
Posted by JasonB on 20/05/2020 15:27:46:

lee taking your photo as an example.

If the upper Vee was cut you would more than likely use the full width of a cutter and maybe 2 or 3 passes at a shallow depth, this tends to wear the bottom of the cutter particularly the corners so you end up with a cutter with ablunt end and unused sides..

If on the other hand you were to mill the lower vee the tool would best be brought in from the side taking a tall cut and moving inwards each pass, much like when you widened the groove on your toolholder when the tool slipped. This makes use of more of the side flutes and spreads the wear over a greater area prolonging too life.

here is a video I did some time ago for another forum member to show two ways to cut a 10mm x 4mm rebate, the first method makes better use of the cutter

Ah yes, I see what you mean now. Will do. Thanks for the tip.

20/05/2020 15:17:52
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 20/05/2020 15:11:02:
Posted by Lee Jones 6 on 20/05/2020 14:41:40:

How would *you* hold such a piece?

I've used the method shown for non-critical work. But given that the position and accuracy of the Vs are critical to the locking of a toolholder I'd use a tilting angle plate:

gear_bracket_machining.jpg

The table would be set with a precision clinometer, not my cheapo digital angle of dangle meter.

Wow! What a setup.

Posted by JasonB on 20/05/2020 15:05:07:

You have a tilt head mill so why not use it, tilt head 45deg and mount the block flat and solid to the table with the vee you want to cut along the Y axis. No special tools of fixtures needed.

You can also cut the Tee slot at the same setting which should help keep all cuts running parallel

I would suggest the longer edge of the Vee is cut with the side of the tool, you paid for long cutting edge so best to use them.

I don't think the cross-traverse is long enough to use the tilting head, which is why I passed on that idea.

What do you mean by the last sentence? What long cutting edge did I pay for?

20/05/2020 15:03:52

Don't worry John, that setup was just an example of how I need the work oriented.

I have been looking at those Duncan. Is that the canonical answer?

20/05/2020 14:41:40

I'm currently attempting (with varying degrees of success) to replicate my T1 Dickson tool holder.

The next step is to mill 4 'v' slots (see the image below).

Looks like you can buy insert tool holders which cut 'v' slots at 90 degrees, which would suffice if I mounted the work end-up. However I'd like to avoid buying tools I'd only use once or twice.

I'd it we're just one tool holder I'd be happy to just shove it on the vice BUT the goal is to mill say 4 at a time from one piece of stock before chopping them up.

The current plan (unless convinced otherwise) is to hold the work at 45 degrees and use an endmill to make the cut.

How would *you* hold such a piece?

img_20200520_131906.jpg

Thread: What *should* a Warco Super Major Milling Machine be able to accomplish?
20/05/2020 08:06:34

Sounds reasonable.

I'll get an order in today (and you can claim your commission). laugh

20/05/2020 07:26:13

Page 1.

20/05/2020 07:19:46
Posted by JasonB on 20/05/2020 07:07:14:

Are those still the poor inserts which will be rubbing not cutting.

Yes, of course. I know ARC's service is good, but getting new inserts same-day might be pushing it.

Posted by JasonB on 20/05/2020 07:07:14:

You get more gear noise at the start and finish of the cut as you have less tooth engagement so the cutter is going from loaded to unloaded and then back to loaded which will be putting the intermittant load into the gears. This is made worse by the excessive load from the blunt inserts.

Well it's a relief to know that there might not be something wrong with the gears after all.

Posted by JasonB on 20/05/2020 07:07:14:

Did you watch those videos I posted about 5.30 yesterday and the knocking and vibration I got with teh cheap facemill and inserts and how the knocking and general poor cut went away with decent inserts?

Also cut from the other direction, you are climb milling which won't help.

I did watch your videos, and I do plan on getting some new inserts.

Ah, I didn't think it mattered when facemilling. I'll try again from the otherside later, see if anything improves.

19/05/2020 22:25:17

Thanks Martin.

The part is actually half that (70mm), so I guess my feed is way too low.

I tried raising it and it just became louder and louder.

Do you think after a certain point, the noise will start to reduce?

19/05/2020 22:08:14
Posted by Martin Connelly on 19/05/2020 22:00:54:

You have your 50mm cutter on H1 which is 600 rpm. This is about 1.5 times as fast as I would be running it. Try the next lower speed.

Martin C

Edited By Martin Connelly on 19/05/2020 22:03:39

Sounds like you are viewing the pre-view. You have to click on the video to play it.

The next speed down is 280.

Thread: Annoying milling cutter diving into the work
19/05/2020 22:04:24

Grabbed a new, never been used before cutter (12mm 4 flute) this evening to clean up the mess.

Made sure to deburr the collet, put the cutter in properly into the holder and had at it.

Pretty happy with it in general (cuts are on the flanks of the slot - not a lot I can do about the bottom).

img_20200519_202751.jpg

Thread: What *should* a Warco Super Major Milling Machine be able to accomplish?
19/05/2020 21:49:31

Spent some time on the mill this evening.

Firstly, I've put it on some interlocking foam matting, which has helped a lot.

However the over-all noise reduction has highlighted what I think might be a bigger problem.

Have a listen to the video below. The knocking coming from the gearbox is quite disconcerting.

VIDEO

Edited By Lee Jones 6 on 19/05/2020 21:50:20

19/05/2020 17:02:32
Posted by JasonB on 19/05/2020 14:25:21:

Get some half decent milling cutters to, could do worse than these

I just bought one of their roughers - arrived today.

Might give it a spin tonight (with my newly de-burred collet set!) and report back.

19/05/2020 17:00:36

This is what the inserts look like:

img_20200519_164614.jpg

img_20200519_164636.jpg

Not checked it for run-out, but the loud noise and vibrating happens with different cutters.

[Although, it has also just transpired that I have not been using my collet chuck properly!]

I'll do that Jason, thanks.

By push it, I purely mean DOC.

I don't have 2500RPM to play with. My machine tops out at 1600RPM.

Thread: Stabilising a Milling Machine
19/05/2020 16:42:47

Thank you guys.

I think I'm going to try rubber and to improve my technique in the first instance, then bolt it if all else fails.

19/05/2020 16:40:56
Posted by Bazyle on 19/05/2020 14:21:56:

Wow, lots of empty floor space!

Fixing the stand to the floor may not help as it is probably the thin sheet metal that is vibrating and flexing. Build a new stand out of breeze blocks and cast in place a concrete top. Don't glue it to the floor with cement the weight will keep it in place but it can still be moved if necessary. Very cheap and if it doesn't work you can still use the parts in the garden for a BBQ.

Not anymore I'm afraid. That's a pre-lathe photo. The workshop is now quite full.

That stand is not made from thin sheet metal. It weighs more than I do.

Thread: Annoying milling cutter diving into the work
19/05/2020 16:38:52

Oh my goodness. Talk about a case of you don't know what you don't know!

  • A 10-11mm collet was used
  • The collet was not properly inserted/clicked properly into place (at least not intentionally!)
  • The collet needed de-burring

Right, what else do I need to know - tell me everything! smiley

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