This issue certainly sounds like some of the engines are not fit for purpose. This should mean the retailler / Ford should have some responsibility for the repair. Unfortunatly if it was not serviced on time every time by a Ford garage (or you can prove it was done by a competent commercial garage using Ford approved parts) Ford have a reason to avoid liability. As soon as Steve di a service Ford had get out. There was a brief piece on the BBC recently and the cases highlighted had incomplete service history. They also quoted Ford as saying somthing like it had only happened on 0.01% of ecoboost engines worldwide". That sounds like lying with statistics to me. Ecoboost range covers a wide range of models including 4 and 6 cylinder varients. It seems like it just affects certain versions of the 1l 3 cyl engine. In the USA the 1l ecobost (which may be different to the UK one anyway) accounts for less than 10% of Focus and Fiesta sales. The Wet Belt was designed out around 2018/19.
If this had affected any significant number of cars in the USA there would be a class action suit going on.

Robert.

Modern CVT 'boxes use metallic link belts not an elastomeric ones like the old DAF 33. My Outlander plug-in hybrid has one CVT 'box plus two motors and a generator. It can run pure electric on one or two motors, IC only, IC + 1 motor in parallel, IC + one or two motors in series / parallel. The software tries to keep the IC engine on a optimum operating point and changes mode automatically depending on demand and battery state of charge.

Robert.

As long as the pump motor is much smaller than the main motor and the VFD is rated for more than the combines power of both yes you can connect the coolant pump in parallel with a switch. The main motor must be permanently connected to the VFD. If the pump motor is wired star (415 V) and the main motor has been changed to delta (240) I would initally leave the pump wired star and se if it produces enough flow for your use. Leaving it star will reduce the additional load on the VFD with the pump running. Make sure you use a 3 pole switch. While a 2 pole will work with normal 50Hz mains leavine one pole permanently connected to a VFD will cause an imbalance fo the high frequency PWM signal of the VFD. This can cause incorrect operation. damage to motor or drive and increased intereference.

Stienmetz is also an option see https://www.js-technik.de/en/faq/detail/groupid/4/id/75

Robert.

The useful gas they generate is a mixture of hydrogen and carbon monoxide (CO) not carbon dioxide (CO2). Basically the same as the old town gas. They both types of producer gas. One significant environmental issue is that they produce a lot of water contaminated with organic chemicals including tars. This liquid requires special treatment which takes yet more power that hs to come from somewhere. They also have practical limitations.

People are confusing Remote Entry, Keyless Ignition and Keyless Entry.
A given vehicle may have one or a combination of these.

Remote Entry.
This is the "traditional" remote locking. You press a button on the key (some older cars had a separate fob) and the door(s) unlock. The doors also have a key slot and can be unlocked with the key in normal use. The key must be physically used to turn the car on and start it. Normally this also unlocks the steering.. The key / fob only tranmits a signal while you press the button. The signal may be radio or optical (like TV remote). The early systems were susceptable to "grabbing" wher soneone receiveed the code as you locked the car and then re-transtmitted it when you left. This gave entry to the car. Later systems used encription or/and "rolling codes" to prevent this.

Keyless ignition / Push button start
The car detects the presence of the key/fob inside the car and enables the ignition / engine start using a button. This is an extension of the immoblisers that used a transponder chip inside a conventional key. This was short range ad onyl read when the key is in the ignition slot. It would turn off the immobliser and unlock the steering or sometimes the key slot itself. Typically passive i.e. no battery required the transponder is powered by the reader. Basically the same as contactless credit cards. The keyless ones may or may not need a a batterry but they only respond (transmit) in response to a signal inside the car. This is a two-way process and data is is encrypted or/and rolling code. Once the ignition is on removal of the key may generate a warning but for safety reasons the car will still run and drive.

Keyless Entry.
The key/fob has a transponder like the keyless ignition (may be the same device) but the antenna that "talks" to the key/fob is active outside the car, close to the doors. Typically the door has no visible key slot. When the key/fob is in range and correctly replys to a request from the car the door locks are enabled and the door will unlock when a button is pressed, the hanle moved or just touched (depending on design)
Again the key/fob only responds to signals transmitted by the car. The data is is encrypted or/and rolling code. The fob is not transmitting all the time. The car may use proximity sensors to detect someone near the car before transmitting. Signals are radio and may be various frequency bands. transmit power and receiver sensitivity are both low so range is only a few feet

The current threat relies on two features. The safety issue that the car will still drive after the keyless device is removed and the wireless link between the key/fob and and car. The equipment used by the crooks is a two -way (full duplex) radio link. This receives the signal at one end and retransmits it at the other. Typically using another radio link on a different frequency between two portable boxes. One is helds next to the car and the oher near the house where they think the key/fob may be. The key/fob end has a more powerful transmitter, sensitive receiver and larger antenna so wil work at a greater distance from the key/fob.

The main point is that this kit ONLY provides an extended link between the car and the key/fob it does not need to "know" anything about the codes or encryption.

Robert.

Edited By Robert Atkinson 2 on 04/06/2023 11:39:48

Edited By Robert Atkinson 2 on 04/06/2023 11:41:54

I don't know about the cheap ones, but mainstream VFDs take both "STOP" and "Emergency STOP" (E-Stop) inputs.
The Stop commeand ramps down under control and the E-Stop slows the motor as fast as possible. Jaust cuttig the power input is not a good idea as there is energy stored in both the rotating mass and the bridge capacitor(s) of the VFD and this may not be managed properly. Applying an E-Stop command and cutting input power may be acceptable as the stored power may be enough to keep the control electronics running until the stop is completed. Correct E-Stop operation may require a braking resistor to pevent overvoltage by genration from the inertial load. Biger drives use DC injection to aid braking. In this case the input supply must be maintained until the motor has stopped. Correct stopping of a machine often requires sequencing and timing. The sequence may include total removal of power at the end. It theory these functions have to be carried out by high integrity approved safety devices. (I always thought it odd that many indistrial E-Stop buttons have separate clip-on switch elements andif these fall off the machine will run but E-Stop won't work. Testing daily doesn't help as it may be the test that finaly broke the switch).

Lathes are particuarly troublesome as the load is so variable. The E-stop may work fine with just a chuck fitted but what if you have a large heavy workpiece acting as a flywheel?
I have designed safety interlock and stop systems for large multi-axis machines with high speed linear motors. These were tested and verified by independant approval organisations.

Robert.

Sorry to be negative, but no. First you have not given use the exact model of VFD. I cannot find any reasonable source for a manual for a "Huanyang P2". Why don't you ask the supplier for support?
Can you at least give us a part number and a link to the manual?

To be a bit blunt, I think it is a little unfair to buy a cheap VFD with no support from the seller and then expect others to spend time sorting it out.

Robert.

My suggestion of a tin was for shielding, not hiding. Unfortunatly there have been cases of armed persons just demanding the keys. Best advice in that case is to hand them over.

Robert.

A tin box like a tea caddy will work just as well. Also keeping keys away from accesible doors and walls. Even a open metal container like a bowl will help. They are short range devices. Also these thefts tend to be from drives. This allows the theives to associate the vehicle with the property and give them some cover. But as has been said, if they really want a particular vehicle it is nearly impossible to stop them.

Robert.

ChatGPT has also invented reference to a American Law professor being accused of sexual harrasment.
lots of references to this here is a radom one https://www.businessinsider.com/chatgpt-ai-made-up-sexual-harassment-allegations-jonathen-turley-report-2023-4?r=US&IR=T

Another issue is by entering anything into thesystem you give them the right to us it.

I did some more work on the seized tailstock today. It's a lever operated model from a P type. I left it in a ziplock bag with plenty of Plus Gas to soak overnight. Still totally solid this morning and not responding to taps with a piece of wood on the tube while hand holding the tailstock. So I got the bed out and cleaned up the ways with steel wool and a bit of kerosine. They are in good condition but had one small, obviously recent, ding wirh a raised area. I dressed that off with a diamond file. I also cleaned up the exposed parts of the tailstock tube. Then fitted the tailstock to bed and clamped it with a piece of wood between the base of the tailstock and head. This gave me some mass to react force on the tailstock tube without having to over clamp it. I then warmed it up to about 40 deg C and applied more penetrating oil. Left it for an hour and tried a few light taps with a bit of wood. No movement. Time to bring out the heavy(er) kit. I applied lots of heat to the body of the tailstock with the hot air gun and tapped the tube from both ends with a small dead-blow hammer and a piece nylon to protect the tube. As soon as it moved one way I cleaned the rust off the exposed part with steel wool, turned the tailstock around on the bed re-applied Plus Gas and tapped it back until it exposed a bit of the other end. Rinse and repeat until the tube came out

I then cleaned the tube, the bore of the tailstock. and the locking slide. The precision and quality of these lathes is shown by the fit of the locking slide until I cleaned the outside of the slide and applied Plus Gas it was not obvious that this was a separate piece. Even after cleaning the plate slides in the slot with no detectable play and no obvious movement between locked and unlocked. It's coming together.

Robert.

Edited By Robert Atkinson 2 on 29/05/2023 16:13:06

Got a chance to have a closer look at the Pultra today. Befinately earlier bed. There was a CF-33 recessed collet in the headstock and I was a bit worried it might be stuck. The drawdar unscrewed by hand abd collet came right out. The 3 and 4 jaw chucks don't seem to have arbours to fit the headstock but the should not be a problem as balnk 10mm arours are available. The 3 jaw is a Bernard. It was left closedand has a bit of rust. The lever tailstock is also stuck so bothe of those have had a liberal application of Plus-Gas and are now soaking. There is a Jacobs style chuck with arbour and drawbar the fits the tailstock
I wnt to a local market yesterday and picked up a set of small collets. Seller didn't know what they were. Some had the CC Crawford mark and they looked about 8mm. At £15 it was a no-brainer. also picked up a thread gauge. total outlay £18. I measured them this morning and they are Pultra / Boley 8mm. Won't fit the headstock of the 1750 of course, but do fit the tailstock. Total of14 collets, mixed metric and imperial. And thanks to Duncan there is an incomplete compound slide in the post.

Robert.

Simple answer is NO, You cannot use a VFD to power the whole mill by connecting the mill supply input to the VFD output.

The VFD output must be connected directly to the motor without any switches, contactors etc between them.
Someone will come up with an exception, but that is the basic requirement of most VFDs.

Robert.

Just being renewable does not make it low emission or "green". Don't get me started on Drax and wood pellets.

Robert.

Edited By Robert Atkinson 2 on 26/05/2023 12:39:52

Are we missing a link?

Typical IEC. Weird symbols the meaning of which is hidden in a expensive document. The linked document shows p proposed symbols, I wonder what they settled on. And no I'm not going to pay BSI £356 for EN 60417 to find out. Oh and that price is only for Part 2, Part 1 is an additional £356!

Robert.

Andrew,
What meter did you use to identify the issue initally?

Robert.

It should be noted that it is the power factor correction capacitors that are causing the issue, not the inductive ballast chokes. Depending on the type of circuit in the replacement LED "tube" leaving them in may actually improve the overall efficency. At the lower currrent of the LEDs the affect on power factor is minimal.

Some years ago some dodgy companies were selling "energy saving" devices that were just a capacitor in a plug. Their claims were based on a small power factor correction. This ignored A. Most domestic uses have little fixed inductive load and B. Domestic meters are real power so it makes no difference to the bill.
Correcting power factor does save energy overall because the reactive current does increase the power lost as heat in the resistance of the power distribution system. Power companies don't like this because it causes heating in their transformers.

Robert.

Edited By Robert Atkinson 2 on 24/05/2023 12:52:03

The LOSSES in the inductor (when running he lower current of the LED strip) and capacitor ARE low. The fact that the meter in question was responding to apparent power, not real power was the issue.
It is not normally an issue for domestic installations as they generally do not have power factor correction capacitors fitted. The capacitors are there only to compensate for the power factor of the inductors when carrying current. As the LEDs carry less current the capacitors over compensate.
Typically domestic customers are charged for real power so there is no need for the compensation.
https://www.northernpowergrid.com/downloads/181
Traditional induction type single phase "electricity meters" record real power.

Need to be careful applying a industrial example to a domestic situation.

Robert.

Hi Duncan,

Message sent.

Robert.