Here is a list of all the postings David K has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Silver solder question |
17/03/2020 18:02:20 |
Correction fluid Tippex ? do you use this to stop the flux spreading around the joint. |
17/03/2020 17:16:03 |
I need to make some unions like the ones pictured below. They are for 1/8 copper pipe and I would like a neat join with minimal solder showing. I was thinking whether to use solder paste in a syringe rather than the rod which I am used too . |
Thread: Material to make ball race thrust bearing |
14/03/2020 14:23:49 |
Thanks for the replies , |
13/03/2020 20:38:17 |
I need to make a thrust bearing for my model engine. The plans state using mild steel for the races and case hardening after machining. My question is , can a use silver steel and then heat treat it afterwards. Reason I ask is that I have some silver steel in stock. |
Thread: D H Gipsy mk1 |
09/03/2020 18:55:13 |
Made a jig to hold the stubs ready for Silver solder
Then soldered in the bottom plate , I soak in citric acid and then polish |
09/03/2020 18:50:59 |
Inlet manifold , started with a piece of solid stainless Machined the shape out on the mill Turned the inlet stubs Then finished them on the mill |
09/03/2020 18:25:55 |
Turned some valve guides
I turned the valves a section at a time to help minimise flex in the material Once complete a fine skim and polish before parting off Valves complete with collets and caps , springs were bought items. |
08/03/2020 19:46:29 |
That's ace Jason, always someone who goes one better. |
08/03/2020 19:42:50 |
Hi Clive ,, yes your correct , I have just checked my oil pump and they are 9T Gears. Bought my gears from HPC Gears Edited By David K on 08/03/2020 19:45:24 |
07/03/2020 20:07:46 |
Hi Clive, I have not got the advantage of using CAD, I will learn one day , so I just tend to trust the drawing and get on with it. The length of the valves gave me a problem , I had to make some more about 2 tenths longer. Already bought the oil pump gears and fitted them , seemed ok and camshaft is made and fitted. I have not written down any errors , nothing major just a couple of figures written down with the decimal point in the wrong place ie. 0.12 instead of 0.012 . |
02/03/2020 20:57:15 |
Removing more material to form the top shape Tapping the plug holes, the digital gauge has proved very useful since I purchased it. Finished Cyl head , I made five so one spare. |
02/03/2020 20:51:56 |
Cut some alloy blanks for the Cyl heads Turned the combustion chambers on the lathe then Cutting the fins was more problematic than the barrels, I found it better to use no fluid and to cut in the same direction as the saw , 'climb cutting'
|
02/03/2020 20:30:59 |
Hi JA, Just looked at the date on my first pictures and it seems I have been working on this for just over a year. Must admit I did not think it was this long but I do tend to make one part or so then take a break. I believe the castings were made by a ' Les Chenery' , I know there are a few around but rarely come up for sale. The castings are good , a few small 'blow holes' have appeared but nothing to cause problems. I have tapped a lot of small threads into the casting and they seem to be holding up so they must be pretty good.. Drawings are very good , a few decimal points on the dimensions have been in the wrong place and there are a couple of mistakes but so far the build is going well. The castings were quite solid and I have removed a lot of material from them , the only place were the material has got a bit thin is the side wall next to the camshaft bearings and cam followers. If I could start again I would move the crankshaft a few thou over to one side which intern would give a bit more camshaft clearance. |
02/03/2020 08:57:09 |
Hi , that piece of Alloy I used was in fact an older jig I had lying around from a previous build. I had cut the four slots so it compressed slightly on my four jaw chuck in my lathe. As for the gear , all you need to do is turn a recess slightly smaller diameter than the gear and then tap the gear in with a soft mallet. The steel gear will slightly cut into the alloy as its tapped in and this is enough to hold it tight. Remember to bore a hole through the centre of the jig so you can drift the gear out when finished. |
01/03/2020 18:41:21 |
Parting off some piston rings from cast iron Made a small oven to set the ring gap Heat to cherry red rings before fitting into cylinders and adjusting ring gap |
01/03/2020 18:36:03 |
Turning the pistons Milling the cut outs and reaming the gudgeon pin hole |
01/03/2020 18:28:55 |
Conrods basic shape forming the rods on rotary table Finished rods |
01/03/2020 18:25:36 |
Boring the cylinders Finished cylinders |
01/03/2020 18:24:21 |
Cast iron blank ready for machining to shape for cylinders x4 Cutting the fins with a slitting saw, hated this job , everything was covered in black dust including me. Recess for the cylinder studs |
01/03/2020 18:20:04 |
Machining shop supplied cam gear Timing gears with idler gear |
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