Member postings for Ron Laden

Just out of interest why is it not a good idea to use LEDs on machine tools..?

A C spanner is almost completely useless for doing up ER collets

I am new to ER collets but C spanners is what I am using and I cant see a problem, to be honest I would have thought there are numerous people using them but maybe not..? To the loading I adjust the collet nut, I have no idea I just go with what I feel is something like correct for the size of tool/work in the collet. I now have a bearing nut which does appear to need less loading than the plain nut.

So it sounds as if I am doing it all wrong but its what I have been doing with no issues to date.

SP, yes your method of producing the studs will be fine, I actually used 4 x M8 grub screws which I got in the correct length from a local supplier which just made it easy. One thing I found worth doing was to threadlock the studs into the chuck to stop the studs moving in or out when fitting or removing the nuts, that can become a pain. If you used studs as Jason linked then you could tighten the stud against the plain shoulder which would secure the studs in the chuck.

SP, you dont need a backing plate, you have the spindle flange with the register and the holes for mounting both the 100mm 3 or 100mm 4 jaw and like Jason suggests you just need 4 studs with nuts and washers.

It was the same on my mini lathe, I fitted the 4 jaw with four studs so they protruded through the spindle flange to the same length as the 3 jaw and then fixed with the 4 nuts and washers, simple.

Edited By Ron Laden on 18/12/2019 19:38:51

I used to use an Evostik water based contact adhesive it came in a flat furniture polish sized tin, it came with a red plastic spreader which had a 50mm round of foam which made it very good for covering large areas at an even thickness.

I dont know if anyone is familiar with it but I suspect it has been discontinued as I cant find it anywhere, I used to buy it at the DIY stores but none of them seem to carry it any more. I would be interested if anyone knows of an equivalent product that comes in smaller sized tins, I know that there is trade size tins of water based contact but that is way more than I would ever need or use.

Ron

Hi Curtis,

Welcome to the forum, I live just outside Barnstaple so not that far from you.

Should you be interested in joining a model engineering society in the future then the Tiverton club is the one I belong, you would be made welcome should you ever consider it. There is also an Exeter club, the Tiverton club has a very nice 3.5 inch / 5 inch track should you ever decide to build a loco and need somewhere to run it.

Ron.

Wow, the top speed of the type E is amazing, didnt expect that from these type of engines.

Have you any images of the type E Jason, I cant see it one the website unless I missed it.

Just dimple or flat the pin at the screw contact point and threadlock the grub, simple, easy and cheap you can get a small bottle of threadlock for £3-£4 hardly breaks the bank and sorts the problem.

Or have you got a headed screw of the same thread with a nut to fit, tighten the screw against the flat and lock in place with the nut, even cheaper than buying threadlock. 

Edited By Ron Laden on 17/12/2019 05:29:00

I cant remember Jason, did you mention previously that you have the kit for the D type engine, I think the D looks superb.

p.s., watching the videos it looks to be a really good runner with decent power as well.

Edited By Ron Laden on 16/12/2019 08:24:16

There is a pre owned 3 ton arbor press on Ebay at the moment £80 which has 300mm of travel.

I am using the C spanner on the nut and one on the spindle seems to work well enough, like I mentioned the ball bearing nut doesn't seem to need excessive tightening.

I,ve said before Jason they certainly are different and it sounds as if the drawings/construction package and CD is more than one could wish for.

When you say you have the type A is it a finished engine from the collector or is it a casting set, it looks interesting.

Impressed with the GT insert, I turned up a pair of larger pivot steel spacers for the loco which need a good surface finish so I used the GT for the finishing cuts, very good.

I will get some on order I was given the one I tried this morning.

Edited By Ron Laden on 15/12/2019 07:21:50

Well done Paul looks good I wouldn't be surprised if the failure did you a favour. I bet you also have a bit more power now as the figures quoted on the old DC motor was probably input not output.

I have been meaning to ask, how is the engine build going I know you were quite well on with it, finished next year..?

Ron

The R8 collet chuck arrived from ARC, quality looks to be very good indeed.

I also got a ball bearing type nut for it which seems to work really well without the need for having to over tighten it.

Wow that is looking impressive Andrew, well done you.

Out of interest what do you estimate the finished a.u.w. of the engines to be, no lightweights thats for sure.

Ron

850 kgs..? hells bells Jason watch your back.

I can certainly vouch for using carbide on chilled cast iron. When I used the flycutter on the large lump of iron when making the new cross slide for the mini lathe I came across a chilled area in the centre of the block. It made short work of the HSS tool. so I changed to a left hand brazed carbide tipped tool. Even that made hard work of it to start with but I pressed on and got through it. So now I would always go with carbide on cast iron and only use HSS if I know the iron is not chilled and machines well.

Thanks guys thats helpful.

Valchromat and the Ronseal looks interesting also the small router bits thanks for the links.

I would never have thought of MDF as abrasive just goes to show. I will get a 3mm 2 flute carbide from ARC, s premium range and give it a go. For convenience I buy 4ft x 2ft cut sheet I will see if I can find some MR MDF in cut sizes.