Member postings for Ron Laden

Thanks for the explanation guys.

Ron

Thanks guys thats helpful.

What is the difference between 5C and ER collets, I can see that they run to larger sizes and that they have an int and ext drawbar threads. Plus there is tooling available for 5C like the indexing head and collet fixture etc, why is that tooling not available for ER collets or maybe it is..?

Ron

Hi Michael

Hope Education list 250gms for £4.20 which seems a good price.

https://www.hope-education.co.uk/product/science/chemistry/chemicals/sodium-nitrite-250g/b8a71535

Ron

Sorry Michael, just read they will only deliver to a School address. 

Edited By Ron Laden on 25/05/2020 05:50:37

I now have the square and hex Stevenson blocks plus the mill and lathe chucks for my set of ER25 collects. Is there any other useful mounts/fittings I am missing for the collets.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 24/05/2020 08:54:52

Edited By Ron Laden on 24/05/2020 08:55:15

I know what you mean foggy but it is nice when you make parts/tools for a specific job or general use and they turn out well and work.

I did have the cast iron on the shelf from last year but looking at the cost the piece would be just over £10 + £5 postage if I had to buy it now. I could buy a pair of V,s complete with clamps for £20 free postage, what they would be like I don't know, probably OK for the job I have coming up as its not tight on dimensions.

I could set the job up without a pair of V,s but the lump of iron kept staring at me.

If you go to Stationary Engines and find my Rons Jowitt thread go to page 2 and you will see Jason's pictures of his Sprung Indicator Rod both the parts and how to set it up and use it. There is also a drawing which he kindly sent. We'll worth making, I have used mine quite a bit.

I must learn how to make and add links.

Ron

Thanks guys, I did read last night that the process causes distortion so I will leave that alone.

Adrian,

A picture below of one of the finished blocks in the vice the way I had it set up for cutting the V. I clocked the block from the spindle making sure I had the diagonal vertical and then used the end mill to cut down to just shy of the finished depth.

I then in turn set the block up in the vice with each face horizontal to give a finishing cut having first clocked the vertical face true and square. It seems to have worked as checking the V with a square and also a Stevenson block the V looks to be pretty well spot on 90 degrees or at least as my eyes see it.

Hope that makes sense.

Ron

That's a useful feature to have that would be very handy. My DRO, s are just the simple basic type so it's Zeus and a calculator for me but it works well enough.

Maybe one day though.

Thanks Thor yes I read a bit more last night, not for the home workshop or at least not mine. I, m sure the blocks will be fine as is, not knowing any different I guess I was hoping it would be as simple as hardening a piece of silver steel but clearly not.

Thanks Vic,

Clive, it did make me think that it probably is possible but as you say not a job for a small blowlamp and dunking in water.

Ron

Thanks guys,

Thor, looking at the link of your blocks I think I will put a clamping slot in each side of the blocks and make up some clamps for fixing down to the table. Plus if I take a mil or two off the the top faces to increase the width I can drill and tap for fixing clamps which I can also make, yours look good.

A question I do have re cast iron, is it possible to surface harden cast iron, I tried looking it up but got mixed messages, some said no, some said yes but saying you need to know the make up of the iron first and at that point I got a bit lost.

Ron

A friend asked if I can make a new steel shaft for a piece of old farm equipment he is renovating, its not too big with turned ends and various bits of milling along the length.

I thought for the milling a set up on a pair of V blocks would be good but I dont have any but I did have a piece of 45mm square cast iron so I thought I would give making a pair of blocks a try.

It went ok and I,m quite pleased with how they turned out, now before I get jumped on - no they are not hardened steel, no they are not precision ground and they are not sized and matched to within a tenth of a gnats wotsit.

They are reasonably accurate though and as good as I could get from milling a lump of cast iron. I machined them as one piece and apart from the slot all the cutting was with a 25mm end mill, where it matters they are good to within 2 thou.

So hopefully they will be ok for the job I have to do, should be as its pretty loose on tolerances, and they should be ok for everyday jobs.

Good fun making them, just need to go over them with a 800 paper wrapped file and then black them, I may mill a couple of slots along the sides and make up a couple of U shaped top clamps.

Edited By Ron Laden on 22/05/2020 14:22:11

Oops that will teach me to read the whole of the thread.

Thanks Lee

Edited By Ron Laden on 20/05/2020 07:44:21

Edited By Ron Laden on 20/05/2020 07:44:50

Jason can you point me to your video of your tests of the ARC face mills and end mill I have forgotten where they are.

Ron

Thats a bit more adventurous than me Howard on my SX2P I run the 25mm 2 insert cutter at 1500 rpm with an APMT insert with a max cut of 0.5 mm on steel and 2500 rpm on alu with the APKT inserts max cut 1,5 mm but more often at 1.0 mm. I do adjust those settings to suit the width of cut but I am not brave enough to even consider 2.0 mm cuts in steel.

If you are getting away with it and the machine is happy then thats fine but I dont think my SX2 would be happy with it or at least I wouldnt expect it to be.

Edited By Ron Laden on 19/05/2020 17:52:45

Andrew, you probably have a point there with regard to making them with a file, Jason mentioned thats the way he sometimes does them but I would have thought it a good little project for someone new to a mill.

I made mine on the lathe and mill quite simply because I enjoy making bits of tooling, thats my excuse anyway.

Ron

Good idea, that would work.

Ron

Just a couple of thoughts I think Jason said 6mm diameter is about right for a 7BA spot face. If you had some 6mm silver steel you could make the complete tool from it. Cut the teeth on the end of a piece of 6mm having first drilled the alu block 6mm and size the length of the tool to allow it to protrude through the bottom of the alu block as a spigot. That way you wouldn't need to make and fit a spigot in the clamp block.

Also you are showing a very deep hole for the pilot and on your first attempt the pilot looked very long protruding out of the tool. Maybe you did that for a reason but on mine I made the pilot 14mm long drilled the tool 10mm leaving 4mm protruding.

I am not criticising just offering some thoughts.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 19/05/2020 07:51:38

Edited By Ron Laden on 19/05/2020 07:53:00

I havnt tempered mine either, I didnt think it a worry on a slow running spot facer.

I ran it at 375 rpm and it cut nicely.

Thanks for that Jason far better than I was explaning it.