Member postings for Ron Laden

Thanks Jason, I am taking out of a piece of 1.75 inch square bar as I don't have any round large enough. Thought of putting a hole in for the boring head and centering it in the chuck on the RT. Then machining the outer rad and the flats then change over to clamping it on the flats and bore to the 20mm using the eccentric as a plug gauge. If I hold it via the flats I can probably stick with a 2.0 mm wall.

Morning Jason, going with C/I for the strap do you think 2.0 mm wall thickness will be ok or should I increase it to 3.00 mm. It was just a thought but if there is no need then that's fine.

Ron

What about a small electric boiler, are they available as kits/plans..?

I saw a video of one running a small engine and thought it looked rather good, dont know if it was diy or a kit/plan. The boiler was horizontal and looked to be around 10 inches long by 3 inch diameter, thought it good been able to run these small engines on steam and not having to consider fuel types for the boiler.

Ron

Conrod finished, well apart from a clean and polish. It maybe small but surprising how much work there is, all went ok apart from turning the waste on the bearing. My mistake so had to increase the width to salvage it but I think it looks ok.

Eccentric and eccentric band next.

Is it my imagination Jason or is the feed rate higher than I have seen before plus the transit time between cuts seems quicker..? Maybe just me but overall it looks faster. 

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 13/07/2020 09:59:05

Looking good Jason, especially the frame considering it came from flat stock, you could certainly be forgiven from thinking it a casting. Also impressive is the alignment considering it a silver soldered assy, not the easiest of shapes but obviously proves your initial set up was good.

Ron

Jason could I get away with cast iron for the eccentric strap, I don't have any brass large enough. I understand C/I is a good bearing material so wondered if it would work OK in this application..? if not I can get some brass in.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 11/07/2020 08:50:26

So good to have the lathe back up and running so made a start on the conrod, going with brass.

Thanks Jason, why didn't I think of that..?

Morning Jason, I am about to start the conrod, turning it from round bar. I was thinking of turning/tapering the rod with a small round nose tool and then grinding up a larger rad tool to cut an outside rad to blend in the rod to the square sides at the crosshead end if that makes sense. Do you think that would work ok.

Hi John,

Please see below the instruction for the connecting and setting of the Jaguar Cub VFD which is what Transwave supply with the Cub, also see the earlier picture of the remote control station which is a Transwave product.

The first two sheets cover the connecting up and basic settings of the VFD.

The next sheet describes how to clear the VFD and take it back to all the factory default settings.

The next sheet describe how to pass the motor control over to the remote control station/pendent.

The final sheet shows the wiring for the remote to the VFD, note that on the sheet describing how to set the VFD back to its default settings it says to disconnect all of the remote cables. There is no need to do that, just disconnect the single pink cable (seen in picture) which will isolate the remote.

Hope this is useful

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 09/07/2020 16:01:55

I can do John but do you have a Jaguar Cub and the Transwave remote control station, I know the various makes of VFD,s are similar but do they have different code references..? as what I have applies to the Cub.

Ron

Ian,

The cause was almost certainly the ground wire losing connection to the speed pot in the remote control or at least thats what the technical guy suggested, he thought it had upset the VFD in some way. As Stuart suggested I did switch the control back to the VFD which by passed the remote and its pot but the exact same problem was still there which proves the problem lie in the VFD at that point as I had already reconnected the ground to the pot.

The tech guy said we could go through all the settings to see if he could find the fault but it was too long winded over the phone so it was much quicker to take all the settings back to their defaults and go from there.

The only settings I had to change back from the defaults was the bottom end frequency, acceleration/deceleration times and change the motor control back to the remote.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 09/07/2020 13:00:47

Made up a mount for the cross slide control and added a small enclosure, seems the obvious place for the control. This will have an on/off, fwd/rev and a speed/feed control. Just waiting on components to finalise the wiring.

Good news, problem fixed lathe back to normal.

I wondered what after sales support would be like from the UK supplier of the VFD (Transwave) so gave them a call. Well it couldn't have been better their technical support guy couldn't have been more helpful must have been talking it through for 20 minutes. His thoughts were that the ground cable becoming disconnected at the remote speed pot had upset something in the VFD.

He sent me an email on how to quickly and easily get all the settings back to the factory defaults and then how to set it up. Followed his guide and fault fixed.. ​

​​​​​Thanks guys for your advice though fortunately the support from the supplier saved me having to delve too far.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 09/07/2020 06:26:42

I tested the pot on the remote it's a 10k but it read 3.1k..? 3.1 one side 2.75 the other. Checking the voltage 0 to 10.4 volts not understanding enough about it is that good or bad..? Operating the pot it didn't have any open spots.

I am thinking should I replace the pot regardless and at least know that any problem there is eliminated.

Ron

Hi Emgee, I didnt make up the remote it is how it came done by the previous owner of the lathe but yes the switches are fitted to what would be the bottom of the enclosure and the lid and fixing screws are on the back.

Ron

One of the nicest engines I have seen, unusual, full of detail and interest, very nice engineering and design even the colour was a good choice plus a very sweet runner, what more can you say...excellent...

Ron

Hi Dave (SOD)

Our posts crossed, will read your post shortly.

Ron

Thanks for the advice guys,

A quick update, last evening I went through all the F codes (fundamental functions) and found a couple of incorrect settings, rectified those and I know have control back at the panel.

With the motor switched off I dialled the speed control pot back and forth and the VFD readout went from 0 to 50 Hz as normal so I wonder does that show the potentiometer is ok..? However with the motor switched on and starting at zero I had drive which I could adjust from 0 up to around 80 rpm at about 20% of the pot travel but going past 20% the speed went up to 170 rpm and no more regardless of where I had the pot position. The VFD readout was frantically dancing around between 9.0 and 10.5 Hz and the motor sounded to be hunting and was noisy compared to what it normally is.

So do I have an incorrect setting somewhere but if I do where..? or is the pot ok with the motor off but breaking down under load with the motor on..? I would like to think it is more of a setting problem but I dont know... any suggestions appreciated guys.

A picture below of the VFD and the control panel I have on the lathe, Dave you asked why a control panel, well its how the lathe came and the controls sitting just above the headstock is very convenient.