Member postings for David Caunt

Jason,

Thanks for pointing out the "Code of Conduct" I thought I was getting senile when my first post vanished. Now with the LINK removed the first part doesn't make sense.

Thanks Carl that clearly answered my question.

Dave

Carl,

Is the kit you are referring to: 

I have been researching how to do this. It looks great

Will it fit and drill parallel to the head stock?

Edited By JasonB on 21/06/2020 20:26:43

Rick

Don't know where you life in Bucks but these might be worth contacting. **LINK**

Anthony

Try these people for advise. **LINK**

Having taken advantage of the 6 for a £1 offer for Model Engineer I was looking at the on line digital copies and was taken by the Oliver Evans' Half -Beam Engine from Dec 2001 on.

I decided to start with the beam which is somewhat complicated the main structure starts with 2mm thick material which I managed to cut from an extruded of material which seems like dural.

The beam has an arc both top and bottom which although the plan doesn't describe the radius I reckoned it to be about 635mm.

The attached photo shows the length I had to go too to get this on my Warco 14.

Has anyone else made. This model as portrayed in the articles?

Having made Harold's simple grinding rest a few year ago now I am at a loss to why the question from Johan. The tilt gives the necessary tool angle and the fine adjustments the tool advance. Both covering all that is necessary.

The only drawback to this original design is that the single screw fixing the table to the ball does, if one is not careful, allow the table to rotate.

The only other complaint re the simple rest is;- Having made Harold's milling edge and end sharpening holder it puts the end of the mill too high and the simple grinding rest doesn't go low enough.

This means I will have to raise the actual grinder DOH!!!

Bob. It sounds as if you have never watched Harold's video's

Edited By David Caunt on 19/04/2020 14:29:42

Simon,

Yes. Don't spread it too thick. Use some form of spatula, a lollipop stick will do the trick

Dave

Simon, This works well for me.

Bazlyle

We did have slide rules though and they did sin/cos/tan etc.

Dave

Back at school 63 years ago it was the mnemonic "Silly Old Harry" Sine of the angle = Opposite divided by the Hypotenuse.

Therefore Opposite = Hypotenuse X sine of morse taper angle

Where Opposite is your block height.

MT2 = 1.4307, MT4 = 1.4876.

For MT2 block height = 5" * sine 1.4307 = 0.12483915376791831054202224797354‬"

For MT4 block height = 5" * sine 1.4876 = 0.1298030051564469002522710354277"

Good look with that.

Peter,

I remember my children buying me a slide copier. As you say it was rubbish. I attacked the problem in a slightly different way. Hung the screen on the wall mounted my camera above the projector and did the lot.

The results were good. I just wished I'd washed the slides first.

That must have been over 20 years ago.

Jason

Sorry I don't know why I attributed that to you.

The penny has just dropped. You have the problem with the draw-bar and your R8/ER25 holder not having any flats.

I've given the answer to the draw-bar. The ER25/R8 holder you will have to modify when you get it out.

Bill,

The article by Dave Fenner MEW 153 referred too above by JasonB contains the words "draw bar which is now self ejecting". This could only happen if the silver collar that your draw-bar sits on actually sits over the draw-bar.

That silver collar should be bored out to take the collar of the draw-bar and act as a restrainer when undoing the draw-bar Then with it over the draw-bar it becomes self extracting. The fact that your draw-bar sits over the collar and still is able to pick up the thread on your R8 taper is amazing.

This leads me to ask:- Is this a new machine or second hand if so has someone before you made a new draw-bar for some reason.

Please see if you silver collar will fit over the draw-bar collar if not then I believe my surmise will be true.

Bill

On my WM14 the silver collar goes over the drawbar. That the enables the drawbar to pull on the end of the mill spindle to draw in your tool holder and push on the inside of the silver collar to loosen your tool holder.

My Chester Conquest lathe sounded like that. It turned out to be the plastic gear on the lay shaft. It eventually gave up and ended up on the bed of the lathe under the head. Check if you have a plastic gear.in the drive arrangement.

If the lathe has been moved a lot surely, the first thing to check is that the lathe is mounted firmly and not twisted.

Try Harold,s page at:- www.homews.co.uk/page309.html

Making this Harold Hall mill sharpener jig has given me 5 firsts.

1. Working with Cast Iron.

2 Turning a taper.

3 Straight boring

4 Boring a taper.

5 Using a slitting saw.

The indexer and guide blades are made but not fitted.

The finish is nothing to shout about but I'm looking forward to using it.

Edited By David Caunt on 26/02/2020 17:22:12

Don't you still have a current subscription to MEW, if so then why wouldn't you still have access to those you previously purchased.

I thought we were saying that when you no longer have a subscription they would be unavailable.

Bandersnatch's question is a very important one.,

I cannot believe that the digital copies we have paid for are actually on our computers. If they are, perhaps someone could find out where they are hidden.

It would be great if we could just open them as a PDF.

Dave

Edited By David Caunt on 24/02/2020 18:06:59