Member postings for KW56

I fitted a 750w sewing machine servo motor to an Alexander engraver to use it as a milling machine. I purchased it from a UK supplier - https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/accessories/motors-accessories/servo-motors. It works very well but I am only using small cutters usually on aluminium.

We used to use an older version of this Renishaw laser machine tool calibration system :-

https://www.renishaw.com/en/xk10-alignment-laser-system--44377

It works in a similar way but bounces the laser back with mirrors to use interferometry to calculate errors to 4 or 5 decimal places. The requirement to avoid draughts and keeping temperature stable was the same.

The traditional material to use for this was a couple of folded pages from the Daily Mirror.

It was mainly used to stop the chatter when trying to open out a hole with a larger drill or with a countersink as posted above.

Hi,

I have just been making waterslide transfers for a model I am making. Look on ebay for 'waterslide transfer paper'.

It is available for laser or inkjet printers and you just create your transfer in either Word or CAD. print on a normal printer then apply just as we used to do on our Airfix models.

This sort of castors would suit your purpose although they would raise the height of the machine unless you made brackets or a frame so that they were at the side of the machine

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4PCS-Set-Swivel-Heavy-Duty-Machine-Levelling-Castors-Wheels-500kg-1000kg-UK/223894282603?hash=item342123a16b:g:tQkAAOSwxZteYbhP

They are available from other suppliers.

Regards

Kevin

Counterbores for bolt and screw heads can be made with a suitably sized drill and then another drill of the same size ground to produce a flat bottom in the hole. Grind the end flat then back off on the bottom edges to create the cutting edges.

Keep the back off angle as small as possible to help prevent chatter. For most work ( ie. gear covers etc. ) the standard drilled hole is perfectly good enough.

I used cheap angular contacts from Simply Bearings but I had to use a 0.2 shim between the bearing outer rings to achieve close to zero backlash. The housings I machined myself.

From what I remember with my Alexander No.1 engraver, you take off the X and Y axes together. The Y axis leadscrew nut is held by 2 allen screws which are accessed from under the knee. It does require lying on the floor with a torch but once they are undone you can slide the whole assembly off.

If you then put the assembly on a bench and turn it over and look at the underside of the x axis you will find that the end of the leadscrew without the dial has an extension pinned on, with the pin accessible inside the table casting.