Here is a list of all the postings Nick Clarke 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Parting Off |
30/08/2019 18:46:33 |
Well tried it on the other systems and on every combination of OS and browser it automatically corrects http;// to http:// Just all part of life's rich pageant (As Inspector Clouseau remarked on getting out of the pond again
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30/08/2019 18:18:13 |
Michael - I only realised there was a typo in the original post after posting the link again, but what puzzles me is that I only knew it was wrong when ega pointed it out as even with the typo it worked OK in Edge on Win10, I have just tried Chrome and IE on the same m/c and Safari on the Mac and on all of them it corrects the mistake and loads the page fine, as it does in Android on my phone. I have not got a Firefox, Chromium Pi or Linux machine up here but I am intrigued so I will check them when I go downstairs, just for my own satisfaction. As the saying goes - To err is human, but to really screw it up just get a computer!! Take care, Nick. |
30/08/2019 17:59:53 |
Thread: Aircraft General Discussion |
30/08/2019 13:34:48 |
It must be hard to dismiss it as just paranoia when they are sending fast jets out to get you ............. 😀 |
Thread: Lathe steady position |
30/08/2019 13:25:38 |
Neil - wouldn’t a hole higher up the steady move it towards the lead screw not away?? |
Thread: Thread Gauges |
30/08/2019 10:52:13 |
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 30/08/2019 09:02:10:
My Granddad had some American spanners in his shed that apparently came from his time in the RAF in WW2. He said that when Merlin engines came from this country you got an engine, but if it was a American built one it came with a full tool kit and spanners - presumably because of this incompatibility. (real or imagined I suppose) Because each and every US engine came with the tool kit everyone in the hangar ended up with one when the F/Sgt wasn't looking! |
Thread: Parting Off |
30/08/2019 08:32:09 |
Thanks for that link Martin - it clearly shows how a tool in a rear tool post or upside down in the normal one 'springs' away from work as against 'jamming' when set up in the normal way better than just using the words as I did. A picture says a thousand words and a youtube video can often be even clearer!! It is a shame that the computer simulation shows a tool so far above the centre though, as that makes the problem bigger than in real life. |
29/08/2019 19:18:16 |
Posted by Martin Hamilton 1 on 29/08/2019 18:35:14:
The rear mounted tool post works very well indeed, i use a rear mounted inverted parting tool on my Sherline & it parts with no problems at all even on steel. Aluminium & brass is a joy to part off, you don't tend to get dig in's with an inverted parting tool whether it be a rear or a front mounted tool. Being inverted the rotation of the work piece is pushing the tool away from the work piece preventing dig in's, a more normal position parting tool is pulled into the work piece causing more severe dig in's. Geometrically the front and rear parting tools are pushed in the same relative direction compared to the rotation of the workpiece. What prevents the dig in is the 'spring' when a rear parting tool is pushed away from the lathe bed as against the 'jamming' of the tool between the work and the rigid lathe bed. Another advantage of the upside down rear lathe tool is that chips fall away from the cutting edge of the tool. Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 29/08/2019 19:19:11 |
Thread: Just for fun what’s this stuck in my tyre? |
28/08/2019 16:22:33 |
When I was very young a mate at primary school had an imported GI Joe toy and together we made an aqualung set for it using the identical cylinders, but that had held CO2 for a soda syphon. Got an Action Man as soon as they were launched in this country (UK) but my mate reckoned his imported GI Joe was cooler. |
Thread: Grinding your own lathe cutters |
27/08/2019 20:35:52 |
Posted by ChrisB on 27/08/2019 15:05:20:
The radius you create is at the tip not the cutting edges. When you hone you create a rounded nose on the tip and sharpen the edges. Look at this video, it's explaining the process in detail: Thank you for the video link - really learnt a lot. Nick |
Thread: 0.300" & 0.400" 28TPI Tap |
27/08/2019 20:32:52 |
Posted by old mart on 27/08/2019 15:35:06:
At the museum, having had many donations of tools over the years, we have many taps which were made for specific jobs in industry. Many only have factory code numbers and can never be identified, and others which are usable at first glance, have + or - tolerances added, which could be disastrous. My favourites are a set of three 0.7" buttress thread taps, they look wonderful, but I cannot think of a use for them. In a similar situation to the museum I have see threads used on linen and paper presses and the buttress makes sense, but the 0.7" is surprising. |
Thread: Minnie traction engine build |
27/08/2019 08:11:04 |
Posted by Paul Lousick on 26/08/2019 23:45:29:
Bolting the hornplates to the boiler stays is common practice on model engines but it is not allowed in Australia for larger, steel boilers. Instead a separate mounting has to be added to the side of the boiler. Edited By Paul Lousick on 26/08/2019 23:46:40 Please excuse my ignorance on things traction engine, but is this method I have seen used in model engines of bolts through hollow stays not used in the full size?, and by extension is an accurate model not permitted if it is to meet the Australian code? While plate thicknesses and joining methods might well need to be adjusted to make a safe working model, if I have understood this correctly, does the visible structure have to be changed too? Interested to know. |
Thread: Piston/Cylinder Materials |
20/08/2019 21:18:32 |
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 20/08/2019 21:12:20: The piston is generally the softer metal, mainly I think because it's easier to replace a piston (or rings) than to fix a damaged bore. But either way round will work. Totally agree either will work and that it is easier to replace a piston, but if I remember my tribology lectures from nearly 50 years ago correctly, it is the harder material that is expected to wear as particles of the harder material become embedded in the softer that then lap the harder one, wearing it more. Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 20/08/2019 21:19:07 |
Thread: Tempering Rivet Snaps |
20/08/2019 21:12:52 |
Thanks - and Andrew I envy your perseverance! Thank goodness none of my current projects include so many large rivets!!! |
Thread: LED Dimming |
20/08/2019 21:09:33 |
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 20/08/2019 20:46:10:
Posted by not done it yet on 20/08/2019 13:46:46:
They each actually require only a small forward voltage of about 0.6 volts before they start to conduct............... That might be roughly true of a silicon diode but it ain't so for an LED, as they don't use silicon as the semiconductor. As a rough guide forward voltage drops of LEDs are as follows: Red ~2V Yellow ~2V Green ~2.1V Blue ~3.3V White ~3.6V Like silicon diodes the forward voltage drop of a given LED is dependent upon the exact type, manufacturer, forward current and probably the phase of the moon. Andrew While I totally agree with you - the issue is that a commercial LED bulb consists of an LED light source and the electronics to drive it off the mains - and you cannot 'get at' the LED itself. You need to use a dimmer designed to dim the electronics not the LED as has already been suggested. Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 20/08/2019 21:10:13 |
Thread: Tempering Rivet Snaps |
20/08/2019 14:53:54 |
Posted by Perko7 on 20/08/2019 12:57:27:
Are you only dealing with copper rivets or do you want to use them with steel rivets as well? That might have an influence on your choice of material. In the first instance copper, although I can see a future need for soft iron/steel, so I was planning ahead and trying to avoid remaking them in the future |
Thread: Thread sizes on flexispeed meteor lathe |
20/08/2019 11:32:23 |
While not relevant to a lathe, at least hopefully!, just because there is a BSF/BSW head size on a bolt does not necessarily mean that is the thread - Morris at their Coventry (ex Hotchkiss) engine plant used metric threads with BSW heads on Morris engines until 1954 and even later on MG and Wolseley engines! |
Thread: Wasp trap - suggestions please |
20/08/2019 10:32:57 |
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 20/08/2019 09:56:55:
Posted by Circlip on 20/08/2019 09:32:39:
Nice pictures Neil. Is it a special phone that has an orientation programme built in or is it an app?
Regards Ian. It's a Moto G5, a bit of a 'Dad phone'. The second picture was taken with manual focus, moving the phone to get it sharp. Neil One of the nice things about the G5 is the 13Mp camera - I was surprised when I recently upgraded to the G7 that it was only 12Mp. A better phone but a lower spec'ed camera. I only upgraded because the screen on the G5 was being heat damaged near the switch. Nick PS: A Dad phone? - That's not what my two 20ish daughters call it...………. ! |
Thread: What coating/grease for long term tool storage |
20/08/2019 10:23:26 |
ArcEuro sell the Shield Technology products - never used them to protect anything personally, but it might be worth a phone call? |
Thread: Tempering Rivet Snaps |
20/08/2019 10:19:42 |
I need to make a couple of narrow 1/16" rivet snaps to get into awkward places. I was going to use silver steel and harden it out, but in water or oil? And what to temper it down to? My only previous experience in similar heat treatment has been when making small reamers out of silver steel - but these were left hard. |
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