Member postings for Richard Millington

BSA A7/A10, A50/A65 also used a single cam with stellite tipped followers.

My Boxford 280 uses trapezoidal. I bought taps to make new nuts, one LH one RH - currently on my roundtuit list - relatively cheaply (under £20 each), EBay USA and UK in my case.

If you find what size the screws are do a search for the taps, alternatively you could single point thread them

I bought one of their smaller rotary tables (HV4) delighted for what I paid, only issue the hole chart for div plates is for the wrong ratio, but easy enough to print out a correct one.

As above.

Last one I did was by over heating so the "bubble" went to the expansion area, (just dipped it in a hot kettle) easy to control - just take it out of the water to cool down.

PM me your email address and I'll send you a pdf of the manual.

It has lifting details in it.

2BA ?

Drill it out and re-tap 1/4"/ 6mm.

Weld a nut on top of the remaining screw, penetrating oil and they usually come out.

A very interesting build.

I have learned through bitter experience that you cannot trust the profile of these Brown and Sharpe style cutters to be central to the thickness. I have not come up with a better method than eyeballing

Would the old ruler between the pointer and part work?

I can only remember a nyloc nut on the Z handle on mine, Did you buy it new or could it have been altered by the previous owner?

Have you tried using a cordless drill on the nut with a socket? I just used to put a ratchet handle and socket on mine prior to selling, a lot easier than winding the Z wheel up.

For my Quorn copy I have bolted the support to the swivel head. Mine was made of metal I had lying around and I machined the top seperate to the shaft then heat shrunk the shaft in to it for finish machining.

Saga have just asked me for a 25% increase on the house insurance, I'll be going elsewhere.

I have a Touch Dro on the Tom Senior E Type I bought, just fitted the Tacho to it, as above you can have Z and Quill axis combined. Mine has the capacitive scales (3.3v), flicker on the last digit of 0.01 mm readings, thous Ok. Can be changed to glass or magnetic scales (5v) which I may do in the future if Vevor get some more in.

Thank you for taking the time to post this. It has been a really interesting and informative read.

I will be selling my bench mounted Centec 2a in a week or two, MK3 head,riser block,horiz arm etc, EMI dro.

Edited By Richard Millington on 27/06/2022 08:56:44

If you are coming off a multi tapped transformer see if you can swap the supply to 12v. I have replaced mine with MR16 lamps, you can get new lamp holders from Toolstation.

https://www.toolstation.com/search?q=mr16%20lamp%20holder

I feel for you and hopefully no one was injured.

I would wait for the damage assessment, it may not be too bad, on the other hand it may have ruined the column, knee and table. Until it's stood upright, shrink wrap removed and assessed you're not going to know.

For my Quorn copy I incorporated a fitting to take my Dyson hose for dust extraction. Well worth it.

Dremel with grinding discs will do it. I do my gash when sharpening end mills with a diamond cutting disc on a Dremel.

Nine's 3/8 whit for vert, but 5/16 for the horizontal. 10mm I have a waisted special for the times I need one.

Jigsaw.

Motor on the side has good and bad points, coolant and swarf and ease of tensioning as mentioned, I'd have it in a cabinet preferably.

From memory Arbor support is 2" deep at arm.

Arbor, if you have a lathe turn one between centres, 5/16 tapped for drawbar, no keyway, could shatter thin cutting discs if grabbed in material.

I'll measure the pulleys for you at the weekend.