Member postings for Richard Millington

If you tool post height is 43mm:

T0, S0,

https://www.rotagriponline.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=244&Itemid=29&redirected=1&Itemid=29

T51 from RDG although you may have to alter the slot which the piston engages to pull it in.

It's your bike, as long as it works and you like it that's all that matters.

I would bore it with a 5mm slot cutter, used as a boring bar and held in the toolpost as above. 5mm pilot drill and then bore to size / length with the slot cutter. Small V block under the cutter if needed.

I use LA plumbers flux (as I have some from plumbing jobs) works for me.

If you are trying to push it in I doubt you will succeed unless the hole is oversize, if you want it a tight fit I would drill all the way through the delrin then plug after.

Pull the HT leads through (taper the end as a lead in), if you have some braided sleeving slip it over the end (lubricate with silicone) and use that to pull it. Cut the end off and then pull it back to allow plug fitment.

Edited By Richard Millington on 24/06/2023 19:56:46

Do the DRO reader head cables run parallel to the motor cable from the vfd?

If you disconnect each DRO reader head in turn does it still happen?

Where is the DRO display situated in relation to the VFD and motor?

I have some 3.05mm O/D, 0.45mm wire dia, 10mm long if you want 4 of them.

Why don't you take the pinions out just to make sure there's nothing holding it in place there

Looks good Colin, don't worry about the rivet counters, hope the summer is good.

I'm in approximately the same boat although without the Wyvern and CNC. I thought about building a steam engine but decided no. I do really like the Bentley BR2, and have collected articles on it, but it's well above my patience (and probably skill) level at the moment.

I think it's more to do with finding something to build which interests you, not just "I'll build one of those" to keep me occupied.

After a quick delve into trying to configure a glass scale to work with an early Blu Dro (it won't), making a slitting saw arbour for the mill and deciding to make a co-ax indicator holder, at the moment I am thinking!

I have a few of chunks of aluminium from when I used to make my motorbike bits, I may make a small parallel twin 4 stroke engine, gear driven oil pump, spark plugs appear to be the size limitation.

I also really like military vehicles and artillery. An SdKzf251 would be nice, but tracks are stopping me at present.

I have a washer screwed to a length of faced round bar with a base at the other end. It is set up that when the base is on the saddle the bottom of the washer is at centre height.

Aesthetically much nicer made in the Hemingway castings, but I had most of the materials from the works skip during my working life so it was made of what I had in the garage, aluminium and steel. The only things I had to buy were the ER32 collet, magneto bearings, drive belt and grinding wheels.

Yes you will get more wear in the aluminium than cast iron, and the dust covers are essential, but I expect it will last my life out! The front bar just runs straight in the aluminium end pieces, the centre lower boss has PB sleeves in it but as this is usually clamped to the bar to touch up my milling cutters I doubt it would make much difference if it ran straight on the alloy.

The dust cover is zip tied onto the aluminium (look for the grooved mounts in the photos) and the slots are also filled with RTV to prevent dust / grit ingress that way.

If I had to pay for the materials I would have made it nearer to the Bonelle design, but fabricate lower sections in steel with welded in bosses then machine accordingly.

Aluminium base - I made my copy from what I had lying around, photo's here:

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_album.asp?a=58414

I did get a copy of the construction book with some other books I bought, it was / is very useful. Fit a cover over the front bar and I use a vacuum cleaner as well - it does wonders keeping grinding dust down.

Things I would change - put the 0 pointer at the front of the degree scale, under the arm may have been the easiest to machine out of one lump of steel but is a PITA to use.

I have a very old 0-8mm Rohm Supra, (MT2) made in West Germany, so that was before the wall came down. Still very accurate, easy to use with self tightening mechanism.This has a JT0 taper so I don't think the JT2S will be a problem.

Tap out the holes to 3/8 UNF ?

Quick and easy:

I use two squares and a 3:2:1 block for quick and easy placement of my 3" Abwood, one square clamped in the vice, 3:2:1 block up to that and the other square off the mill table to set at 90 deg.

For the other vice (ground toolmakers) I use one square off the table.

If I want it really accurate, 6" long ground block clamped in the vice and a DTI off that as it gives a longer travel than just the 3" vice jaws.

doesn't appear to be one for the 140, but others may be useful.

https://passion-usinages.forumgratuit.org/f32-tours-lathes

I used to have one a few lathes ago. You look to have made a good buy, later one with taper bearing headstock and leadscrew clutch. They are surprisingly capable for their size.

Have a look at the transformer and see if it is tapped for 240v on the input side.

When I used to do repaint my motorbike control legends I used Humbrol enamel put into the engravings and the excess wiped off with a piece of lint free rag.