Member postings for Jon Lawes

One aspect I'm considering with mine is the gauge of the track at my closest model engineering society.

Just as an update I have been researching quite exhaustively, based partially on the suggestion here of tackling Don Youngs 4F (thank you Julian) and the good feedback I have been reading I think the current top contender is the SR Q1 that Nick Feast developed from the 4F (3 1/2 gauge). It appears to hit every spot for me, especially my love of the underdog! Cracking bit of kit unloved due to its unpalatable looks, and so crucial to the war effort.

Obviously this isn't set in stone but gives me a good insight into a route to take. I'm going to purchase the drawings come payday to see what I'm up against. My only mild concern is that only one company offer castings, but I don't see this being a big issue.

Thanks to all that offered advice, it's been great food for thought.

All the Q1 models I'm currently aware of (I took the first names from another website, it didn't often list full names):

C6 - Nick Feast (and he has a couple more I don't know the numbers of)

C17 - Made by a gentleman named Harry

C20 - Peter

C41 (Fictional number) - Len

As a point of interest the Hornby model is of C1 and C9, and C10 was on Thomas the Tank Engine under the name Neville...

EDIT - Zombie thread resurrection! Sorry, I thought the date said 2018, not 13...

Edited By Jon Lawes on 12/06/2018 20:48:20

I've probably overstated my leg issue; my day job involves clambering over large helicopters so I'm not quite as bad as all that, but its good advice regardless.

I can see the advantages to maisee (specifically with regards to the simpler boiler and slide valves) but I think its the two driving axles that put me off. The LMS 4F does look right up my alley however. Don Young's work does seem quite positively spoken about. That looks like a prime contender.

Thanks for the tips, I will also keep attending the club nights. I wouldn't dream of asking to drive other peoples locomotives however, I just couldn't bear the risk of causing damage to someone's pride and joy.

Thank you, I shall investigate.

Thanks Russell, that's a useful guide.

I'm rapidly approaching 40 (Signal passed at Danger?) but my bigger issue is I'm an amputee. dead lifting heavy items isn't too much of a problem but carrying over a distance is a little more problematic one legged.

I'm still mulling this over between thoughts of fitting in a relatively quick build freelance steam wagon in the meantime (as discussed before on another thread, using a gear/chain reduction on a Stuart Sirius for motive effort, very simple boiler, minimum of castings. Focus on ease of build rather than accuracy in that case).

I'll attend a few more club nights and see what feels "right" for me. I hadn't considered the Speedy before but the more I look at it the more I like it. I guess I want something that has a fair bit of realism but still is achievable by someone with very modest skills. I want to use this as a learning experience, but to such an extent that I'm in my 80s before I get steam up for the first time!

Thanks all,

Jon.

Good points, thank you. Not just manhandling it but storing it too I guess. My mantlepiece isn't THAT big!

I quite like the look of speedy. It would appear every type I look at has equally keen advocates and harsh detractors. I did wonder if a larger 3.5 inch gauge model would be a good compromise; something like a Britannia is more complex but with cheaper castings errors are not quite the earth shaking issue they could be.

Thanks for the food for thought. I'll keep thinking. It may take me longer to decide than to build!

I'll try rewording. Is it vastly more cost effective to go 3.5 inch gauge over 5 inch or are the differences not significant enough to outweigh the disadvantages?

As you may have guessed from some of my posts on here I like to plan things ahead comprehensively before I cut metal!

I've been weighing up the advantages of different project types, from Steam Wagons to Traction engines and rail locos. I had thought that it was pointless doing a steam locomotive as I didn't think I had a track near me, then I was lucky enough to find a group 40 mins drive away with a 5 gauge and 3 1/2 gauge track. This means suddenly my preferred project is viable. After a short chat with some of the experienced engineers there I was heading towards the idea of a 5" gauge locomotive (probably a firefly, Simplex or something of that ilk) as the building of a larger locomotive presents something more tangible; more capable of doing work. However I've realised that the larger it is, the heavier it is, and also the more costly the materials. Although its a project likely to span many years I don't want it to be held up on a regular basis through lack of funds.

So my question; is a 3 1/2 gauge locomotive much more cost effective to build than a 5 gauge? Would it be more suitable to making on my Myford? And does the reduced size make things more fiddly for my fat fingers to operate once complete? I have hands like shovels, and not the scale kind.

For two comparable models (a firefly in each size for example) would it be realistic to say a 3 1/2 gauge loco would be 3/4 of the cost to build considering the cost of castings and boiler copper?

Thanks for everyone's help, I'm currently doing a lot of soul searching about this, and since my grandfather died a few months ago I don't have anyone close to me to discuss such topics (leaving quite a void I have to say).

Jon.

All the RFID tag will give you is a serial number, you would need access to the database to give you any useful and useable info. In the days of Data Protection I suspect that would be very difficult to use. It would of course speed things up to be able to read the number directly to a vet over the phone.

I'm in North Dorset, near Shaftesbury. That annual show sounds fantastic, a couple of hours drive but sounds worth the trek!

I was quite impressed at one of the steam car flash boilers, I think it was doble, who had a system of quartz rods that pushed the control valves for the fuel supply shut as the temperature rose, providing closed loop feedback control for the heat supply.

I'll probably still end up going the route of a conventional boiler but the draw of exploring "the Sentinel that might have been" is pretty strong!

I'm sure you would still need some sort of safety valve so maybe that needs to be certified in some way?

It's a very grey area, until I asked here I was getting very conflicting opinions.

Very helpful indeed, thanks

I've finally plucked up enough courage to visit a club this wednesday, I'm looking forward to chatting face to face with like minded souls.

I'm currently just juggling ideas; I like the idea of building a steam wagon but want to make something that looks like it could have been made in-period despite being to my design. I've a lot of ideas rattling around but nothing concrete forming yet!

Thanks,

Jon.

As I understand it the actual water capacity is restricted to what is within the coils at the time, which is likely to be a cupful!

A very simple question from me for once, but still daft no doubt.

Do you need a boiler certificate for Flash Steam / monotube boilers?

Does this mean getting insurance for using anything powered by a flash steam boiler would be problematic?

I'm still thinking of unusual methods of powering a Steam Wagon (not a faithful replica of an existing model obviously!) and as the Doble steam cars used flash steam (powering a 2 cylinder double acting uniflow engine if wikipedia is to be believed) I think it could have some potential.

Thanks,

Jon.

That looks fantastic. I like the high running boards of this design.

I hope this has helped you Mark...