Member postings for Robin

Richard Feynman tells us, "It doesn't matter who you are, how clever you are, how beautiful your idea is, if it disagrees with nature, with experiment, then it is wrong.

Climate experts have made many predictions and not one has passed this test so they are wrong.

Simples

Robin

In a previous interglacial we had crocodiles and hippopotami in what is now Trafalgar Square. They found the bones while digging the foundations.

The Ice Age ends when the poles become ice free.

We have got used to sea levels being where they are but there is no right or wrong level, it's a lucky dip.

When your species evolves to sapiens and you discover that you are living in an ice age interglacial, it would seem to make sense to warm the place up, not cool it down

There is water in the atmosphere. If it goes away then more water evaporates from the surface. It tries to maintain what they call a partial pressure.

If CO2 drops below 150ppm then it no longer exerts sufficient partial pressure to pass through plant cell membranes and we all die.

The heat seems to arrive spasmodically as an upwelling of warm water in the Pacific which is called an el Nino event.

The "scientists" don't explain how the greenhouse heat gets from the troposphere down to the bottom of the Pacific without warming the troposphere.

I am wondering if YouKnowWho might be involved?

I have been trying this Global Warming Scam for myself but nobody falls for it when I do it. Let me try again... "The sky is falling and I sound a bit like David Attenborough so you'd better believe me. Send money".

There are two kinds of people in this world, those who have shapers and those who don't. I think you have made the right decision

I usually wind the handle until the resistance from the screw feels like enough to make the pawl disengage.

Here is a bit that bugs me. To assemble it you have to catch the 1/8" key in the ratchet wheel, then slide in the shaft hoping it all lines it up. But the keyway in the shaft is not long enough and it was cut with a side cutter so the depth fades out at the end.

To compensate my key is kind of loose and short. Even so it is wedging itself in before reaching the home position. Sorely tempted to square it off with an endmill. Maybe separate the ratchets with a shim washer so the key doesn't depend on my sintered bronze bushing to knock it out.

Splendid. Can never get enough info... Next question. Does this rough-cut welded doo-hickey look like original Boxford or home-made?

Barry, that detente that allows you to rotate the pawl and switch from horizontal to vertical feed...

You have a lovely knurled knob where I have a crummy grub screw.

What is under that knurl? Is it a screw or a spring loaded pin?

I tried a couple of the cheap Chinese version, neither did very well

Reporting back as instructed.

Durafix EasyWeld performed as it did in the YouTube video. I am most pleased and just about to order more.

If you would like the pile of rods that did not work for me, (for further investigation), simply PM me a mailing address and they are yours

Robin

I'm just doing one, the tricky bit is cutting 40 x 1/16" grooves in the ratchet, you really need a shaper for that.

I broke my only 1/16" end mill and had to do them 2mm.

The gear is the same as the one it meshes with. I gave it a sintered bronze bushing.

It goes up and down like anything. The vertical drive shaft has a steel gear taper pinned on the end. Be sure to remove the bronze gear behind before knocking the pin out. Angst

Have you found a supplier for 3/32" x 1 1/2" taper pins? I got some 1" from EKP but I need bigger.

Robin

Hi Bezzer, glorious repair, I want to play too

I do a lot of tin/lead soldering so I went straight for the 300degC aluminium solder then I went for anything at 400degC that didn't come from China.

I am trying to make a rectangular frame from extruded aluminium channel cut at 45 degrees. Nobody else seems to have any problem using this stuff but I think maybe they have teething troubles.

I am supposed to melt it by touching it onto hot aluminium. That would entail a lot less contact than I have with this soldering iron. I do have a thermocouple tip tester somewhere but the chances of finding it when needed are low.

I started with the MAP-PLUS torch and it laughed at me. I lugged a tank of Calor gas back from the workshop with a Sievert torch attached but I still couldn't make it melt without showing it the flame when I got blobs. I could not get it to behave which is why I started playing with soldering irons.

I think I am going to try Durafix Easyweld from Oxford Welding Supplies. They seem to have a reputation they might want to preserve with a bit of quality control. I just wish they would tell me the diameter of their rod not just the length

I want some of that aluminium solder that melts at 400C and flows like Ersin Multicore onto 60/40 tinned copper. The one that bridges huge gaps and laughs at hammers trying to break it apart. We have all seen it on YouTube, you know what I mean.

I have tried 2 aluminium solders so far and they definitely do not do what they claim on the tin. Here we see a wire that should go at 392C still holding shape at 450C.

Am I missing some wrinkle?

Where do I get the good stuff?

Bobby Ewing got bumped off for a season in '85 but JR was only shot, not shot dead. I was a fan

My very first gear wheel, ever. A 45 tooth, 16DP in cast iron, press fitted to the mandrel

Looks okay but I can't test it until I have made another. Will they mesh?

Angst: 4 hours to remove the handle on the tool slide, eventually wedged it off with Stanley knife blades. Went to clean it and it has a different paint than everywhere else, one that cannot withstand harsh ultrasonics and turns to slime.

The clapper seems to adust okay, I can put it as tight or as loose as I want. Whether it will stay as I want only time will tell.

Now I am also waiting for a 3/8" reamer. Humph.

The clapper box is plastered in the same dried-out grease I have found everywhere else. Won't know if it has issues until the grease is gone