Member postings for Robin

I have the Warco HV if that's any help...

I just type "calories buttered toast" into Google

Robin

Take the weight of the lump hammer in kg

Multiply by 9.81 to get the downward force in Newtons

Add a bit if he is pushing it down rather than just letting it fall.

Multiply by the vertical distance between hammer and chisel in meters.

Put J for Joules after the result.

Compare result with tool specification.

Simples (if I am right)

Robin

Kinetic energy is Newton meters Nm in metric, foot poundals ft.pdl in old fashioned and foot pounds force ft.lbf in everyday speak.

A one pound weight presses down with one pound force here on Sol 3 where the lump hammers live.

If you want to do kinetic energy without destroying your brain, I strongly suggest the metric system where Newtons and kilograms are very different beasties

I'll give it a try...

Joules is kinetic energy which is measured as force times distance.

Joules is Newtons times meters. (1 Newton force will accelerate a mass of 1 kg at 1 m/s/s)

To work in lump hammers we must convert to English units. Plenty to choose from, I suggest foot pounds

55J = about 40.5 ft.lbf

So a 3 lb lump hammer falling 13.5 feet would arrive with 40 ft.lbf or 55J of energy.

Wow!

I thought about air bags but a scuba cylinder at about 200 bar can't do much inflating when the water pressure outside is 400 bar

Hi Old Mart

I think you are right and there was an element of luck interpreting that 0.05 degree resolution on the LCD

I was thinking I might CNC a more precise angle and try that?

Until then I am leaving the top slide just where it is

best

Robin

Why does the Chester Craftsman not list a faceplate in the accessories?

When I bought my Crusader deluxe I had to ask for the faceplate. Didn't cost any more, but I had to ask.

I did wonder if they omitted it because the spring covers on the leadscrew stopped the saddle over 4" shy of the end of the bed. The faceplate wasn't exactly reachable until I removed said spring thing.

All jolly good fun

Sounds like a lot more fun that way, but is it easy?

Maybe a better piece of steel, leaded perhaps? Problem is I became a bit miserly with the metal when the prices went up. I will see what I have

Robin

After suggesting this as a method to someone else I thought I had to try it for real. I bought a Chinese 2 in 1 Digital Angle Ruler, with an LCD scale resolving angles to 0.05 degrees.

MT3 requires 1.4377 degrees od offset on your top slide. Best possible on the 0.5 degree LCD was 1.45. I set the angle between topslide and chuck face to 90-1.45 = 88.55 degrees.

I chucked up a piece of 1" diameter cold rolled and turned a taper 1 5/8" long. The tailstock was not involved in the turning.

I tried it for a fit in the tailstock taper and it felt tight. I removed it, added a line of felt tip and tried again. Contact end to end, best in the middle.

I am not used to succeeding quite this easily. Perhaps reality is at fault?

bestest

Robin

Oetzi the Iceman was at a transition, as evidenced by the copper axe head in his pocket and the flint headed arrow in his back

If the sides of the top slide have been machined square, hows about a Chinese digital angle finder, claiming degrees to 2 decimal places. You could put it between the side of the cross slide and the front face of the chuck.

This turns a tricky accuracy problem in to a shopping opportunity.

I have been amazed by the accuracy of the cheap digital protractor. Tiny little thing, I zero it on the milling machine bed, turn it upside down and stick it on the bottom of the bed, 179.9 degrees

Robin

I don't think I had better click on that link because I do not have a TV license and I worry that my computer may dob me into the boys in blue if I put one foot wrong

I had a problem recently in cold rolled. The thread was hard to cut so I did frequent reversals to stop it jamming but all to no avail. Ended up having to push hard to back it out and it chose to break

Presto taper tap with a sulphurised cutting oil IIRC

I bought a MTB5 to ER40 adapter for my lathe. I start to wonder if accuracy increases with size because it is quite amazingly good, once you get your MT5 taper cleaner sorted out that is. Trouble is the through hole is a bit restricting and the side walls are as hard as the top of Gods' head. I can't open them out but I can live with that, unless anyone has a clever suggestion?

I had that very same problem with a bit of hot-rolled, maybe this was from the same batch.

I assumed medical-grade radioactive cobalt from a scrap radiotherapy machine that had gotten into the mix.

The Americans usually add those to re-bar so entire buildings have to be torn down when they find out.

I bought a litre of chloroform, the acrylic solvent, from Italy back in the day. Goods in free circulation and all that guff. Bought it on a whim because I had never seen it for sale before. It arrived nil problemo.

It sits in the shed waiting for the day when my need will outweigh breaking the seal

That would be me, I fall for everything, hook line and sinker

Looks wonderful, but what is it? A gothic commode perhaps?

best

Robin