Member postings for Mark Slatter

Excellent, many thanks ill give that a try

Thanks for the reply Andrew, the material being reamed is EN9. I'll get rid of the peck as you suggested.

Hi all,

Ive never had the need to use a D-bit until now and am quite proud of my first attempt at making one. We'll see if it actually cuts anything!

I'd appreciate some advice on speeds and feeds for this. It's a 6mm d-bit, the difficult bit is I'm using this on a CNC lathe and will therefore not have any "feel" as to how its cutting.

I was initially thinking 100rpm, and 0.05 mm/rev feed, with a 0.5mm peck to clear the chips and keep things cool. How does that sound?

I should add, the pilot diameter is 5.9mm and the material is EN9. 

Edited By Mark Slatter on 15/05/2021 11:07:13

Thanks very much for the reply, I do appreciate it. I've scoured the internet looking for variations of this mill and in fact found the Jet manual for this model (they call theirs the JVM-836), before my machine arrived. The lubrication instructions describe an oil cup, and show it in the exploded diagram but as mentioned my mill doesn't have one or even a plugged hole where one might have been installed. It seems there has been a design change at some point and the manuals have not been updated.

I think I'll give Baileigh a call as they do have a UK branch, but I'm guessing their response will be to look at the manual

Hi all,

I was hoping someone with one of these machines could offer some advice.

I have recently acquired a similar milling machine made by Baileigh. With regards to lubrication the manual says to fill the oil cup in the head in order to lubricate the spindle bearings. However I don't see an oil cup, are the bearings sealed and greased in that case? And what about lubricating the quill? I was thinking if there is no oil point to simply drop the quill and rub some way oil on the quill periodically. It does have a one shot lube system for the ways however.

Any advice appreciated, thanks!

Thanks for the replies everyone much appreciated! Some good info to mull over.

Hi all,

I'm trying to decide on which set from Arc to get, either the 14 piece set or 20 piece set. The 20 piece seems better value, and only slighter looser tolerances on the non-important dimensions.

Which would you go for?

Here's the link to Arc's page showing the parallel sets:

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Parallels-Angle-Blocks-Test-Bars

Any advice appreciated!

Edited By Mark Slatter on 17/01/2021 12:42:43

Edited By Mark Slatter on 17/01/2021 12:43:12

Excellent attitude Robin, you'll have a fantastic machine when you're done with it! And yes you do indeed sound like Richard Attenborough. 

Is that a Warco surface Grinder in the background? I'd be interested on your thoughts of that machine?

Edited By Mark Slatter on 01/01/2021 15:14:59

Hello Robin,

I was wondering if you managed to get your mill up and running and what your thoughts are of it?

Hello Bernard, thanks for the reply. Can I ask for the title of the book you are referring to? I presume the drawings in the book are for the Mk1 version? I'd love to have a go at making one of his later concentric dial heads, what a beautiful and useful tool for the workshop!

What fantastic boring heads! Have any articles on these been published yet?

I thought I was quick enough off the blocks on that one, as I replied 6 minutes after Vinay posted the ad! I'm glad the grinder has gone to a good home though and well done on the move it sounded a bit of a mission. Please keep us posted on its cleanup and use etc. Cheers for now, Mark.

Thanks very much for the information and advice, it's much appreciated!

Hi all,

I have hopefully sealed the deal on a Mk3 Eagle Surface Grinder, pending inspection of the machine. Not having seen one of these in the flesh could someone tell what they weigh? Would it be feasible to strip the machine down and transport it in a normal hatch back car, or will I need to hire a van and a engine hoist or similar?

Many thanks!

Mark

Hi Brian,

I ordered some items from China over a month ago, still hasnt pitched. The supplier has sent several emails with a link to the Hermes website showing the package is in the "local sorting hub" and has been there since the 25th of May. Navigating to the Hermes website myself and not through the supplied link, the supplied tracking number is not recognised and according to Hermes not in their network yet. Not sure who to blame although the supplier is one of the bigger Chinese outfits and Ive bought from them succesfully in the past.

I hope your tap arrives eventually.

Interesting phenomenon. Did you adjust the centre height when swapping inserts? Depending on insert they are often not completely interchangeable with regards to centre height. This may have caused the edge to fail prematurely. We use Ali geometry inserts at work for use on small diameter steel pins. The edges do degrade quickly, and once they start the finish can go from mirror to speed hump in seconds.

Hi folks,

The variable speed driven version of this machine has been out in use for a while now (the initial batch stocked by Warco sold out in no time), and I was curious what the owners/users of these machines think of them. Are they an improvement over the standard version, worth the money, have you done any modifications, your thoughts on rigidity, accuracy etc?

As always pictures are encouraged

I was going to suggest line boring on the lathe, if the part will fit.

Thank you everyone for your replies! Vidar I think you are referring to the "Extrusion Multiplier" setting in Simplify3D...I have tried tweaking that however it doesnt seem to make much difference in the final print.

Jeff I have watched Teaching Techs videos on setting up a printer (and actually used his S3D profile to start with), he has some excellent material on YouTube. I will drop him a line and see what he says.

Steve I'll have a go connecting the printer to something other than S3D and see what it comes up with. As the printer is used it may well have had the firmware flashed or some settings altered etc. Interestingly I played around changing the e-steps in the start script of the g-code...going from 90 to 102 and the first layer seemed to improve on the lower settings (counter intuitive to under extrusion) however all settings showed gaps between the outside perimeters.

Hello everyone,

I recently bought a used Creality Ender 3 off Ebay to play with. I'm struggling to ascertain what the current e-steps are in the firmware. Connecting the printer to Simplfy3D and sending a M503 command returns the PID settings but no E-step information. Is there another command or way to find the E-steps?

I'm struggling to get good adhesion between the perimeter layers themselves, and adhesion between the perimeters and infill. It seems to be under extrusion.

Any advice appreciated, thanks.