Member postings for ChrisB

I have recently got myself a combi TIG welder, I still need to get an Argon bottle for it and a regulator. Local gas fillers only hire 6ft tall cylinders so I thought I'd buy a 10lt (2m3) cylinder and regulator. Not convinced the regulator they have is fit for TIG welding tho, it's a two gauge type one measuring high press and the other is the regulated pressure, but I want something which measures flow.

Had a look on the bay to see what's on offer but most flow regulator that come up look like cheap china stuff costing 20£ like this: **LINK**

Then I found these from a UK shop: **LINK** and **LINK**

Am I on the right track or are there better alternatives?

Maybe you could use SketchUp, I use it for all plans and designs I need. Pretty simple to use as well.

https://www.sketchup.com/

Edited By ChrisB on 13/05/2017 10:19:58

I think I'll go for the 111 type...it will be a while before I can report on it's performance tho, the machines are still on the floor pending fabrication of their benches. That's planned for this summer.

Good thing you pointed that out John, I'll measure the current tool post and order accordingly. Isn't the WM250 the same size as the WM280 apart from the distance between centres?

Hehe! I could do with a deal...got a long shopping list ready!

It's been out of stock for quite some time.

This is what it looks like. So I guess it should be relatively easy to fit the tool-post. Probably will go for this **LINK**

Thanks John and Jason, that was very helpful...so I took off the top slide (the pics came handy) and tapped the stud out, but it's not exactly as in the last pic. It came off with the boss and all and left a large hole. It's like a three stepped stud.

Will get some pic to explain myself better

Edited By ChrisB on 11/05/2017 14:32:16

I'm afraid I'll invalidate the warranty if I had to machine the boss off....is there a way to take the stud off the slide? I took the tool post off and it looks like the stud and boss are one part, but I can't take it off, for sure its not threaded in the slide as it won't budge. Maybe it's got a nut on the bottom side of the top slide?

If I could take it off I could then either machine a new stud of use the one which comes with the QCTP (like ARC's wedge type has)

Edited By ChrisB on 11/05/2017 13:50:38

I had read somewhere that to fit a qctp to the lathe you have to machine either the tool post or the top slide. I would prefer something which fits straight in. Machining the toolpost might be difficult if it's hardened and I'd rather not modify the slide in an irreversible way. I emailed ARC to ask if their qctp fits the warco wm280, but they have not tried on one, so they cannot say...Any ideas?

Edited By ChrisB on 11/05/2017 13:28:44

Prior to ordering one I would like to know your views on which QCTP is more suitable for the WM280. I did a fair amount of research on the forum and from what I gathered the most common types are the Dixon piston type and the wedge type (ARC)

Last time I checked the Warco webshop they have a Dixon style which would fit the WM280, but it's permanently out of stock. ARCeuro have wedge types 000 and 100 (not sure which size would fit my lathe) These seem to fit my lathe if I remove the tool post stud and replace it with the one which comes with the qctp

What are your views and opinions?

To wrap up this thread, I had sent an email to Warco to explain my situation. Yesterday they replied and basically told me to do the same things discussed over here, check wiring etc.

I was assured their machinery is tested by an engineer prior to dispatch, so the fault could have happened during transit. Anyway I'm happy with the out come and the way Warco responded.

Although the machine might be a bit rough around the edges and maybe not as refined as other premium brands, it will do for what I need it for and for what I was willing to pay - enough to say that locally a similar sized Weiss Chinese lathe cost almost double the price of a Warco.

Edited By ChrisB on 09/05/2017 17:56:07

Better idea to rewire after warranty is over as you mentioned Graeme, will leave it as is for now. For sure I wont use spiral wrap if I had to rewire it (sorry Neil) I'd rather use woven self-wrapping sleeves, so much easier to put on and remove if required.

On another note, along with the lathe I got a WM18 mill which I have not switched on yet, tomorrow I'm moving it and give checking it out....wish me luck!!

Edited By ChrisB on 07/05/2017 21:41:55

Probably I was the last person to post having a problem with wiring in a Warco lathe, and the reason I did post was not to complain about or bad mouth Warco, I just wanted help to solve the problem, which I did thanks to some very helpful folk on here.

That said, I honestly was not expecting the lathe to be faulty straight out of the box, I made it very clear to Warco that the lathe was for export and wanted to be sure it was fully tested before dispatch as obviously they won't be able to fix it from 2000miles away. Was told that it was standard procedure from their side to do thorough checks on export machines so I was confident. Not that I'm dissatisfied or anything like that, just to be clear, but it does dent a bit my impression of the product...

I can speak and write Italian, if you need assistance send me a pm

Early morning at the workshop with a good dose of coffee gave a good result!

Went through all connections, removed and repositioned the terminals one by one (some were barely touching). When I came to the contactor, one wire came loose as soon as I poked it with the screwdriver, it's one of the black wires on the lower end of the contactor. Fixed it back in place, turned on the lathe and Hey Ho! the lathe now runs in both directions!

I think I'll rewire the whole thing at some point, nothing wrong with the wires themselves but they could have been longer and routed properly around the case...coming from an aviation background I'm used to much much tidier wiring.

I won't tell Warco yet the problem is solved just yet...I want to see what kind of aftersales they will offer... Ah, btw I have that blown lamp to report!

Thank you all for your help and suggestions, you're a really helpful bunch!

Edited By ChrisB on 07/05/2017 07:44:28

Hi Dave, yes it does. The contactor engages on both forward and reverse, it just does not turn in forward...

The 50v I mentioned were picked up from the F/R switch on points 2,5 and 7, and that was measured to ground.

Hi Les, the schematic is identical to what I have on the WM280V-F manual so it should work out for me. I'll do those checks tomorrow morning and post an update. This afternoon I opened the switch covers an had a quick look inside before I left for work, wiring is not the tidiest I've seen but everything looks in place, nothing loose. Included some pics of what it looks like. I'll have a closer look tomorrow, maybe I missed something.

Norman, I have contacted Warco in the mean time explaining my problem - I'm trying to troubleshoot and identify the faulty component, it would be much easier that way rather than just telling Warco that the lathe is not working ( I'm not expecting them to come over and check the lathe out, just as well as I'm not going to sent the lathe back!)

Edited By ChrisB on 06/05/2017 19:20:21

Hi Les, Checked the voltage on the reversing switch, points 9 and 10 show 240v, points 2,5 and 7 gave 50v.

I have the VFD manual and a CD, it's the same as the one linked by John. I'll open the back cover later and have a look at the inverter display...fingers crossed

Thanks for the help.

Thanks Dave, I just opened the front panel holding the F/R switch and On/Off switch to have a look, apart from a blown lamp on the On/Off switch everything looks fine, no loose wiring etc.

Next I checked voltage on the F/R sw in both forward and reverse directions, voltage readings are the same for both directions so the F/R switch should be fine. Supply on the On/Off sw is ok, and same with the emergency stop button. The problem must lie deeper inside the headstock, either in the VFD or the contactor.

Will post some pics later on this eve

The problem I will have is that not being located in the UK, probably I will anyway have to take it apart myself to see what's wrong - sending the lathe back for inspection is out of question for obvious reasons. I'll contact Warco anyway just to see what they recommend, but the way I see it, I'm going to have to fix this...let's hope it's just a loose wire!

Agreed, it is my intention to contact Warco. I just wanted to be sure I was not doing something wrong from my end, for example when I first switched it on and tried it, it would neither go fwd nor reverse - the chuck guard was open (silly me)