Member postings for Jim Nic

I've never experienced this problem on any of the dozen or so stationary engines I've built, most of which have eccentrics secured as yours is. I would look at the valve linkage to ensure it is free moving. The eccentric only has to operate the slide valve which itself should be fairly easy moving. Perhaps the gland nut is a little on the tight side?

Jim

A fine looking bit of kit Pete.

Jim

That's a heck of a lot of money for a hobby bandsaw. You haven't said to what uses the saw will be put so may be you need a machine of that nature. I have the Warco 41/2 inch saw currently available for £325 and from a lot of other suppliers at varying prices.

I find it to be a more than adequate size for my modelling needs and with a bimetal blade from Tuffsaws plenty fast and accurate enough.

Jim

Just now searched Amazon and found a Dykem aerosol layout fluid available for £24.99 + £3.91 delivery.

Having had my interest raised by this thread I was looking to get some but at that price I will carry on using a permanent Sharpie.

Jim

Jason's suggestion of a Stuart Models S50 is a good one. Also a very popular engine with folk starting on the steam engine route has been a Stuart 10V. (I made mine about 10 years ago.) Tee Publishing produce a book titled "Building a Vertical Steam Engine" by Andrew Smith to give some guidance.

What you get in the kit:

How mine turned out:

For some reason it looks a lot brassier in the picture than it is in reality; the flywheel, cylinder and steam chest are polished cast iron. The air connections and pipery are not included in the kit.

Jim

Be aware that when using a 4 flute milling cutter to form a slot that a say 10mm 4 flute cutter will not cut an accurate 10mm slot from start to finish.

You will need either a 2 flute cutter, sometimes called a slot drill, of the diameter of the slot you want or a smaller 4 flute and cut each side seperately.

Jim

When I am (often) searching for dropped bits using a magnet I cover it with a small poly bag then when I either have the bit or give up on it withdrawing the magnet from the bag leaves it free of steel swarf ready for the next time.

+1 for shining a light along the floor rather than down on it for making errant bits show themselves.

Jim

Thanks for that Ramon. I have used JB in the past and have had no complaints regarding its strength. For my current model stationary steam engine which (like all my engines) will run only on air, I intend to fabricate the cylinder. I have been toying with the choice of using either JB or silver solder to attach top and bottom flanges and a steam chest to the cylinder body. Your results have convinced me, JB it will be.

As an aside, in a previous life I spent a little time investigating adhesive use in non critical aircraft structural repairs using a number of different types. It was found that usually with epoxy resins the best bond was formed if the adhesive was set using a raised temperature and I now always do this where possible when using, mostly, Araldite. High temperatures are not required, placing on a domestic central heating radiator for a few hours gives benefit.

Jim

Just read this through for the first time, I don't know how I missed it earlier.

A wonderful project and some great work in getting it back to a great state, well done.

Jim

I make flywheels in a similar way to Duncan's it appears.

Start with the bits:

Initial machine and assemble:

Loctite it all together and finish machine:

Add some car body filler fillets, paint and display:

I have made several like this varying from 70 to 170mm diameter. The rims are steel from M Machine, the spokes silver steel and the hubs mild steel. The ones shown here are 95mm dia, 15mm wide and the spokes are 6mm dia.

Jim

Edited By Jim Nic on 06/03/2021 15:41:01

A good looking model Anthony.

How are you going to make the flywheel?

Jim

For the last couple of months I've used my workshop time to set about my version of Neil Wyatt's Norden engine design. I say my version because firstly the castings that Neil used seem to be no longer available and secondly I like to work in metric measurements and the drawings I have are in imperial units. Following advice from Jason B some time ago converting from imperial to metric was straightforward by taking 1/32" as 1mm.

The original:

My engine will thus be slightly larger than the original and made mainly from barstock; the exception being a cast flywheel.

First off was the base, a simple aluminium sheet with mounting pads Araldited in place:

Then the frame. The trickiest bit for me, silver soldering the angled legs to the table was always going to be a challenge but it turned out OK. Still to add the trim strip around the inner faces of the legs:

Then the crankshaft bearings:

Finally for now a family shot of progresss to date:

Next job will be the cylinder.

Jim

Interesting first thoughts Gerry.

As someone who had an interest in lifting equipment in a previous life, my first thoughts are - Dont Do It.

If it's not man enough for the lift you want to do get a bigger crane.

Jim

I've not used a broach but have looked at obtaining and using small ones, but only in steel. I think I would be very wary of using a 1/4 inch push broach in cast iron, I would imagine that there is a danger of fracturing a corner at the outgoing end.

I stand ready to be educated by those with experience.

Jim

Jason has pointed out that there are 2 standards of drawing so presumably there are 2 standards of bedplate too. Perhaps Arthur has mismatched drawings and castings. If so and if bought new from Stuarts a replacement con rod would appear to be merited. Some practice at making con rods would also be included.

Jim

As I see it given that the crank bearings and the slide bar mountings are located on the engine bedplate and thus likely to be correctly positioned, then the crosshead should not impact the slide bar posts if the conrod is the correct length regardless of the piston position. Disconnecting the piston rod from the crosshead would eliminate it, or not, from the equation.

Jim

Be aware that the picture in the link posted by Ian shows a vertical slide attached to a WM250, a lathe which is a bit bigger than a mini lathe.

Warco do a slide for a mini lathe, just make sure you are getting the correct one for your machine.

Jim

It may help to know where the lead comes from/goes to. Can you trace the other end of the lead to a component?  There is no circuit diagram in my WM16 manual but I have a manual for a Grizzly G0704 which is pretty much the same machine.  That does have a circuit diagram but cable colours are not given.

Jim

Edited By Jim Nic on 02/02/2021 14:34:07

By 'eck, that's going to be a hefty beast and no mistake. My standard size one is heavy enough for me.

Looking good though.

Jim

Nicely done Tony.

Jim