Member postings for Nick Taylor 2

Off the top of my head I think it's M6 on my lathe (1974 vintage).

Regarding the oiling of the rear shear - are you aware of the oiler on the back face? Put a good whallop of oil in that and it should coat the rear shear fine.

Edited By Nick Taylor 2 on 11/07/2017 20:10:58

Evening all,

I've submitted this question on the colchester yahoo group but that place seems pretty dead to me so I thought I would try to improve my chances a little and post here as well!

On the chipmaster headstock is the sight glass a level glass or should it show a flow of oil etc when the spindle is running?

Planning to change the oil soon as I can, but cant actually find any instructions on how to fill it, i.e if the sight glass isn't a 'level' then how do I know how much to put in?

Many thanks,

Nick

Hi Mick, just been out to the garage with a tape measure;

Cabinet is 18 inch wide and I have mine so the front of the cabinet is 40 inch from the wall to allow for full rear movement of the ram. You could maybe get away with less.

Also remember you'll want the left hand side of the machine in the 'open air' so you can get into the motor compartment easily, and obviously its the safest and easiest place to run the machine from.

cheers

I run 1/2hp on my super 7 and it copes on top speed easily, even with my biggest chucks. Unless the motor is faulty then it should be fine. You say there is little heat generated; are you referring to the front spindle bearing?

if the motor is fine on other speeds, even whilst taking a cut, but struggles to run the lathe on top speed without a cut on then I would be checking for spindle binding before I spent money on a new motor. Not to mention the damage that could be happening to the spindle/bearing.

How quickly does the speed vary? It's possible the motor has internal thermal protection that may be misbehaving.

Another option is the spindle bearings may need adjusting. If there is too little clearance on the front bearing it will over heat and bind surprisingly quickly. Next time you get chance run the lathe at top speed for a minute or so then stop machine and turn off motor. Feel the front bearing, if it is bad enough to be causing the problem you will be able to feel the heat on the bearing and nose of the spindle.

Edited By Nick Taylor 2 on 02/05/2017 23:42:05

I''ve been using Jenkins for a while now, always on time and always get what you pay for.

To be honest I am still using their eBay shop as it is still cheaper than the website most of the time with free delivery accounted for.

Also worth checking out their clearance/bar end adverts. Got 30kg of various EN3/EN8 bar ends from 5/8 to 3 inch OD and from 6inch to nearly 18inch long for £40 the other week!

Hi Micheal - yes I had seen that thanks - good to have some SFM numbers to go off.

However - It seems the 'funny sizes' aren't that funny at all. What made them 'funny' sizes was being measured at 11pm.

Just been and remeasured with clearer eyes and turns out they are standard 16ths sizes.

So for reference the two part numbers that I couldn't find are (IDxODxLENGTH);

CT173 x 5/8 = 7/16 x 9/16 x 5/8

CT175 x 1 = 11/16 x 13/16 x 1

So we could maybe assume that CT174 would be 9/16 x 11/16 x length?

At least this prooves what we already knew about the CTxxx question - they are just part numbers and tell you bugger all about the actual size unless you have a list infront of you.

Off to price up some oilite bearings, hope to get the shaper back together soon!

Cheers,

Nick

I've been doing a bit of research and the two big things that you need to be careful of are;

VERY sharp tool with small cutting radius, preferably carbide as it will keep its edge better (although I’ll probably resort to some HSS-Co and be kind to the tool, think I have some M42 somewhere)

Fully clean bush of all debris from machining, then replace the oil contents by soaking in oil @ high temp (80°C is often quoted).

I was surprised at the cost of the cored bar, there are a few available on eBay for considerably less, but they are solid bar. But thinking about it, I’m sure you could drill undersize as you would any bar stock, then take your finishing boring cuts with sharp tool mentioned above to retain the porosity.

Mmmm, this will require some thought!

Cheers,

Nick

Have just been on the phone to Boxford and have been told a very similar thing - the CTXXX seems to be a manufacturer part number rather than a Boxford part number.

Didn't have any dimensions for the bearings, apparently a fire at Boxford a few years back destroyed a lot of the old drawings.

Looks like I need to get some cored Oilite bar and see how I get on making the odd size ones. Only 3 to make, the rest are standard sizes. The other option I suppose is to remake the shafts themselves to more standard sizes... Oh and need to make a gear shaft as well… and I’ve got about 12 hours of jobbing work to get done this week… so the shaper might have to wait!

Done some measuring, most are standard IMP sizes but there are a couple which are really bizzare, IDs of 680 thou and OD of 837!

Think I'll have to give boxford spares a ring tommorow.

Hi gents, thanks for the replies!

The machine is complete at the moment, so as you say I can just measure the bearings, which is what I plan to do - also it looks like I need to make a new gear shaft as it is worn nearly 1.5 thou on one of the bearing surfaces, and is slightly out of round.

The machine runs great until you try to take heavier cuts, when slotting etc, and you start to hear a thump at the extremes of the ram travel which seems to be due to lack of lubrication on the rocker linkage bearings.

Looking forward to using the myford to make bits for the boxford, seeing as last month was spent making bits with the boxford for the myford

I was just curious if the 'CT' number referred to some sizing standard which I wasn't aware of.

Cheers,

Nick

Morning all!

I'm looking at some drawings on the Boxford spares website in order to get some oilite bushes for my shaper.

The bushes are all described as such - 'CT18 x 7/8 Oilite Bush'

What does the CT18 part of the description mean exactly? The 7/8 in this case seems to relate to the length according to the drawing. So I assume 'CT18' somehow tells you the ID and the OD?

Sorry if this is a silly question!

Cheers,

Nick

Hi Paul, thanks for the reply.

Unfortunatly you have confirmed my inital thought - can't get the table off without pulling out the gib first!

I'll have to remove the saddle with table attached then see what I can do,

Cheers all!

Nick

Thanks for the replies,

Yes I have unbolted the lead screw nut but it seems to still be connected to the rear of the table some how, it looks like this is all that is stopping the table coming off.

The screws are still available from Boxford, just need to be able to get this snapped one out!

Cheers,

Nick

Morning all!

I’ve now had a good bit of workshop time to get used to my newest (impulse) purchase – a Boxford shaper!

It’s a later version with fixed table and both power feeds, and seems to of had a very easy life, it could probably do with a strip and clean, new belts etc but apart from that it’s in good nick.

However! – When I first got it, there was a little play in all the gibs so I went around and re-tweaked everything and it runs great… but one of the gib screws on the bottom of the table snapped. Need to get it on the drill press and see what I can do.

Anyone know how to remove the table? I thought you could just unscrew the lead screw nut from the table then pull it off the dovetails but it seems the nut is still captive in the back of the table somehow, and is stopping it from coming off the rails.

Any ideas?

Cheers,

Nick

Morning all,

I have two older machines (a shaper and a pillar drill) that whilst mechanically very serviceable are being let down by loud and rough running old single phase motors. What makes old single phase motors so ruddy loud? They can't of been this bad when the left the factory!

Now I know that the obvious answer if I want quiet running would be to fit three phase with inverter but I would like to keep them on single phase.

Has anyone purchased a single phase (about 0.5hp) motor recently who can make a recommendation?

Ahh ha, thanks John - didn't know that!

cheers

Out of interest, everyone is always talking about old Pratt chucks or new import chucks - is no one interested in new Pratt chucks?

I have an old 125mm 3 jaw super accuracy which is very worn, the outside jaws are not so bad but the bar gripping on the inside jaws is terrible and very badly bell mouthed.

I'm temped to buy a 125mm standard accuracy Pratt chuck, seeing as they can be had brand new for less than £200 online. Any reason not to? Other than price compared to the other offerings.

Cheers,

Nick

Very nice, please let me know how you get on with it - I'm very tempted by the W18. I'll probably go to the open day next month and see if I can have a play with one.

I know it may vary but what kind of discount do they give on new machines on the day? Looking at the WM18 mill, but it is the limit of my budget.