Member postings for Philip Burley

Ian it isn't the tubes in the end plate , they seem ok its the flanged end plate in the boiler tube , I have found a but of 1/8 copper rod , I will try soldering that round the joint , if that doesn't work then its hello mr scrap man

Phil

one of my last jobs in the saw mill was part time operator of a 7 ton Derrick crane with a 90 foot jib , An old one with only one motor for lifting and for moving the jib you had to de clutch and engage a gear to lift the jib while holding the load on the foot brake , Very hairy sometimes . and sometimes in windy conditions you would slew one way slowly and as you came back with the wind behind you had be carful it didn't run away with you , Quite near a main railway line as well but that's another story

Phil

its a 4 inch diameter boiler barrel . I have already unsoldered it once and made new flanged , end plates and reduced the umber ot tubes but to get the tubes and ends into the barrel once they have been assembled together the flanges cant be too tight or they wont go down with out too much pressure .

I am ok machining engine parts , and I can silver solder a bike frame , but boilers have been a step too far for me . . If I cant get this to seal its going in the scrap bin and put it down to experience . Luckiy I do have a ST 504 and an up right boiler I hade a lucky ebay buy from which when cleaned up and new fittings made works well ,

Phil

I am having a second go at making a boiler ( never again ) The first was a disaster , At second attempt , soldered the tubes OK , soldered one end in the barrel , looks OK , but the second end must be a bit slack i , The solder runs through and wont bridge the gap in places I am thinking of putting in a narrow copper ring and hoping at will seal on that . What to more expert makers think ?

Thank goodness we have the shed to play in these days

while we are discussing 4 jaw chucks , can someone explain to me why some have numbered jaws? I assumed that it wouldn't matter where the jaws went on a 4 jaw.

I nearly got caught with this last year , just noted at the bottom a charge , when i knew there should not be one , I sent an email saying that they were a con , They replied not because they will send me a reminder next year ( but at a cost)

The bar I was using is a RDG indexable 16 mm diameter , Yes its a 4 inch x 1 1/4 bore , I think my trouble is taking it too slowly, speed and feed and too fine a cut, But working to a size fine cuts are a must for me , I am not an engineer . just a self taught guy . I think I will stick to the HHS unless its something really hard .

Thanks for the input

I dont seem to be able to get on with tipped tools , I just bought a new boring bar but it leaves a poor finish , I tried a couple of others as well similar result , A HSS tipped cutter works fine . , I have founf similar results on plain turning , on cast and on steel . I am using a Culchester Bantam so plenty of power , Where an I going wrong please

Its a Mk 1 Bantam . I bought the plate last week for £25 . nobody wanted it as it's too big and heavy for most lathes . I was going to use a between centres bar , but I couldnt see how to set it to get an exact to size bore with out a complicated adjustment bar . . and the Bantam doent have and bolt holes in the cross slide anyway . With a thick boring bar I think this should be OK , Takes ages though . 10 mins for one pass at my speeds !!

regards

a pic of the set up to bore my red wing cylinder using a monster keats type angle plate

a picture of my boring set up , with a monster keats type angle plate

got them now , but I don't know how , I hope I can find them again !!

got them now , but I don't know how , I hope I can find them again !!

I have downloaded the Pocketmag etc , when it says to sign in , I cant find anywhere to do that , until a couple of months ago I had no problems . Sorry but i am a "thicky" when it comes to anything not straight forward

Is it only me ? I dont seem to be able to read my digital editions of the ME Workshop . I get lost in a mass of downloads

regards

So I will make a piston sized plug and bore the cylinder , the make the piston to fit , Rings are supplied with the kit so piston size is critical.

regards Phil

Hello .. I am about to start boring the cylinder for my Red Wing engine , Is it easier to make the piston first and the bore the cylinder or bore first and make piston to fit .What do other's do ?

I got mine from Forest Classics a few months ago , I have machined the base casting and the crankshaft , Working on the flywheels now

regards Phil

I recently ordered some 1/2 round bar and 5/8 square metal from a well known supplier . They sent me metric material , too small for what I needed . I have emailed but had no satisfaction , a bit disappointing

Phil