Member postings for Richard S2

Hello Brian, I'm sure the Cylinder casting has plenty of spare 'Meat', so don't be worried about the taper.

If you first measure up the smaller end and set up to start machining that smaller face and then the bore, you will be ok.

I think I have a few pics that may help later, but like Jason, they were before Digital and the WWW !. I'll dig them out and scan them for you if it will help.

Regards

Hello John, I presume you installed this File as an Update?. It is a file that was sent out in a Windows Update last year to promote Win 10 Upgrade....- Link .

With this irritating random Win10 'Pop Up' living in my System Tray, I was ending the Process via the Task Manager daily (other methods were available).

Having done a Complete scan and then a Clean Install of Win 7 back in March, all was fine then.

After some 48 essential Updates to bring it up to date, I noticed the CPU Cooling Fans kicking in as soon as I logged on to the Interweb caused by the memory usage increase being unstable and inconsistent.

No Malware or bugs causing it.

Found issues existed with problematic/updates and significant CPU/Memory usage by Svshost (system).

When I checked the services for it in Task Manager, I found it was WUAUSERV causing it. Found some help online which temporarily sorted it, but still came back with high usage.

This all stopped on the 30th July, day after end of Free Win U/Grade and the GWX.exe disappeared as well! .

So like I said, my machine is now fast, clean and only very lighty 'Sips' at the CPU & Memory usage with no Fans running.

Regards

Always thought the Minnie front end looked rather open and sparse, maybe because I chose to machine the Axle to a square section either side of the pivot point , so I have been toying with a Spud Ring/Pan layout to see if it looked ok?-

I think I'll keep it on, so just needs finishing off and a Spud Pan to make and fit. I shall probably call it a day then with any more changes

Well, I'm now free from being pestered by 'Get Windows 10 free U/G' prompts and having to disable GWX.exe every day !!. It disappeared from my Win7 laptop this morning and my CPU & Memory usage (while online) has dropped back to 2% & 28% respectively where it used to be several months ago (was 30% & 40% while online).

I'll stick with Win7 until is no longer possible!.

Oiler hole on left bearing is correct and noticed the same when I replaced the Glacier T1 Bearings back in 1986 during a major refurb on my 1949 ML7.

As for Motor Pulley size, the standard is 1 7/8" and an optional one was available with 2 1/2" dia for slightly higher spindle speeds.

The Countershaft Pulley which you should have Jon is about 7" dia and will take as you say the standard belt (34.5" Inside length).

AJC- Good job done on the ML7. I should have mine reground really, as I've replaced many parts and it's only the Bed Ways that let it down.

Regards.

.

Yes- here is the commentary- Quote:-

C. E. Bowden

We regret to report the death on 9 October 1984 of Colonel C. E Bowden at the age of 85. Older readers will remember him as perhaps the best known pioneer of petrol engined model aircraft and regular contributor to Model Engineer on aircraft topics from 1931 onward. His association with the late Edgar Westbury had considerable influence on petrol engine design, notably in the Atom series, and it was the Atom II that he established a new duration record in 1932, comfortably exceeding Stranger's record which had stood since 1912.

In the 1950's and 1960's Claude Bowden was active with radio controlled sailing craft and added a book on the subject to the several he had written on model aircraft, His passing closes a major chapter in the history of models and the Editor extends on behalf of all readers , sincere sympathy to his widow Grace.

I use charts downloaded from the Interweb. Covers internal/external, Metric and Imperial.

Imperial/ Metric- google Circlip Chart

U.S Equivalent- google Snap Ring chart

Should give you every permutation of sizes. Just need to find a retailer who knows what they are selling!.

Regards.

Richard.

May be worth having a good look at the Stock these people carry. They are local (walking distance) to me and they carry a vast range. Usual disclaimer. - http://www.drill-service.co.uk/Product.asp?Parent=100120300000&Tool=113

Regards.

Thanks Rod, hope you get as much enjoyment from it as I have done with this Engine.

Thanks David, not sure if I've gone over the top with details, but the challenges it throws up are the bits I like about it.........Small production work example-

0.0669" (1.62mm) is the smallest AF Steel Hex stock I have and managed to produce some 12BA nuts and bolts, along with other sizes.

Thanks for the link and good to see it running, nice work. Hope you overcome the few problems with the pump.

Regards

Hello Julian, thanks, I'm not familiar with that Forum, will have to search it out.

Forthright terms are fine with me. I respect expertise in a 'Specialist Field' and am not easily offended. I was/am ignorant of Small T.E Boiler designs and chose this one purely as a first venture into M.E interests and what info was around on them 32 years ago. The size was also an important consideration.

I have no problem persevering with any effort to obtain a reasonable 'Steaming' performance from it when finished, purely to see it operate in it's purposeful form. My main enjoyment has been the learning and operations processes to make the parts accurately with only books to learn from and practice.

As for the Certification process info you furnished, you've provided all I need to know, so thanks for that.

I had a chance to take some more full view images of it's current state in natural available light-

Regards

Thanks All, sorry about the pics with the lack of Depth of Field Focus in macro as my digital camera is 12 years old. Hope it inspires some to enhance basic designs. I love detail and precision.

Yes Jason, I will paint it........ reluctantly!. It will be tested on air initially, thoroughly checked and steamed.

I will then clean and prep it for painting. Spooky you mention Fowler!, as years ago I took pics of several at shows for reference and back in 87, I purchased the Etch Primer, Matt Black and Fowler Prussian Blue Gloss Enamels along with Brushing, Airbrush and Etch Thinners from Precision Paints as they were then.

I had wrapped them up unopened and sealed them in a large Coffee tin for storage for when ready to paint...... I opened the tin last week and all still very good. Hope my Airbrushing skills return easily.

I have a question if someone can advise.

The Boiler has a Manufacturer's Certificate and the numbers are correct.

Am I right in saying I will have to have it checked and re-certified for use when I have finished it?. I would prefer it to be compliant if I have to sell it.

Thanks. Regards.     (edited for spelling)

Edited By Richard S2 on 01/07/2016 23:34:06

Returned to this first ever project after 25 years, as I now have time to finish it with the intention of firing it up later this year before prepping for paint.

Made a lot of extra work for myself with several changes to Mr Mason's excellent design and increased the level of detail. I worked to his drawings for the rear wheels showing 36 Strakes, instead of his written description of 35.

Main 'working' changes were the Con Rod, Motion Bracket/Ass'y, and Reverse Lever/Rod layout. Geometry is as per original design.

3rd and Final Gears have additional machining. Scrapped the Brass Tender in favour of Brass lined straight backed Steel design of the 1890's.

I won't list all of the changes, as those who are building, or have built this Model will see for themselves in the pics.

Nearly at the point where I will start dismantling it to finish, make and fit some other parts ready for the final assembly

One thing I have to do at some point is to test the 'Scaled Down' Water Lifter to check the Nozzle angles etc are correct while off the Engine.

The Boiler is not my own work. I purchased it in 1986 (Morewood's) and has the 5 bolt fixing into oversized Stays.

I did not have the skills or equipment to make my own at the time. So I have respect for those who have made, or are making their own.

Regards

Vic is right. Here is an exploded view of the 171 (1950s vintage). No Ball Bearing.

Suspect it was the small Detent /Spring that flew out. Should not be difficult to make and harden a replacement.

If you want the dims of the part, I'll put them up here.

Afraid I can't help with the Moore & Wright version(s)

Regards.

I only have an Eclipse 171. Had it apart 30 odd years ago to regrind the point. I'll open it up when I get home later if no one has sorted it by then.

Regards

Rather late spotting this thread, but this image may be of assistance to the tool design I believe mentioned.

I made these to set the Rivets on my very 1st project, as I am/was not proficient in workshop skills when I made them nearly 30 years ago from the ME design. I didn't want to mess up my Wheels and Tender during the riveting process (only 815 rivets).

The bright one left of the pic is as per the design. The middle one is modified to cope with the double 'T' Section of the wheels. The working parts on both are interchangeable as it saved me making 2 lots of parts.

The one on the right is for the Tender (3/64" iron and copper rivets) and is cut from 3/8" thick Gauge Plate.

Certainly worth the time making them.

Regards

Thanks all for the welcome. Slight error in my initial post. The 'ole' Myford is 1949 vintage-

(1958 was the original build date of my last Restoration project) Google- Yellow Mower Challenge if interested.

Getting back into the swing of where I left off and fortunately I kept records and notes on all my mods, plans and progress.

As for painting the Engine, it's a real dilemma which, like many experience, when they are confronted with covering such a wonderful assortment of metal colours and fine workmanship.

I will probably paint it in the end, as my original intention was to finish it in Prussian Blue n Black with little or no frills like lining or bright red to keep in the dull 'General Purpose' appearance.

Not sure if the unopened paints etc purchased 25 years ago from Precision Paints will still be good?.

Thanks again. Regards.

Hello all, Decided I should join this Forum, as I have got around to liberating my first venture project from it's Mothballed state. I have lots of excuses, but it has now got my attention after waiting 24 years !!.

Only skills in this field are self taught, as this project was started in 1984 in the hope it would be a joint project with my Father after I built a Garage to house a Workshop.

My Father was to be the Skilled expert having been involved with Aircraft since 1939. Alas. he passed on in 1985, so I persevered with the aid of books and the ME Magazine.

Always had an affinity with detail and models from my childhood in the 50s-60s, Nowadays, I have been restoring, refurbishing a few Garden Tractors and Vintage Horticultural Machines and am a member of a few other Forums.

So I've come back to finishing this Engine and giving it a few runs before painting it up while my eyesight is still able to cope with making parts like 14ba steel nuts and bolts!.

I have a modest assortment of equipment, mainly my old tired 1958 ML7 and a small Peatol Micro for tiny precise jobs. A metric Warco Mill is the latest addition, all of which have produced and repaired many parts on my Tractors etc.

Anyway, I hope to glean many hints and tips from this vast reserve of experience and skill. Maybe I can contribute as well in some small way.

Oh!, maybe you want to see a few images of the Engine as is, so -

More in my Album if you wish to spot the Mods I've made so far.

Regards