Member postings for not done it yet

Near 100% ethanoic acid is often sold as glacial acetic acid. Other concentrations are available. PPE required for these concentrations and preferably some chemistry knowledge helps a lot. Glacial is used by soap makers and 80% by bee-keepers, for instance.

Kilrock-K(?) for descaling kettles is Formic acid. Citric acid will also work.

Some deposits can be very difficult to remove. I bought a water still that had really thick deposits and I needed nitric acid to effectively clean that - it was stainless steel - but nitric (even if one can easily get it these days) will attack copper very quickly, so not an option.

Can I put a probe on the spark lead and get a reading?

Just hold the lead in one hand and spin the engine. You should be able to tell if there is some output. Better not to hold the engine with the other hand if you have a pacemaker?

It’s not a high power job, so three grubscrews fitted with loctite and filed/machined to profile would do the job perfectly adequately. I usually fill with braze and recut the teeth with a bought-in (or home ground) cutter. Too much of a ‘throw-away’ society these days, if you were to ask my opinion.

They’ve caught the idea from model engineers, no doubt. Imperial, metric, BA (mixed systems?) thread form, large and smaller nuts/bolts (to look better) - and so it goes on. Get used to it.🙂 It’s not confined to just car engines!

How about the ‘lumiweld’ rods/wire for the job? I use it quite often for all sorts of jobs. No flux just scratch the surfaces to get the filler to run.

I was able to move my locomotive over the gravel driveway with ease. Something that was always very hard to do before. So job done.

A suitably padded sack-barrow would suffice? 🙂

Alternatively, as it is only one tooth missing, simply repair it!

Clickbait - sounds more like it, every post!

Rigidity is always a potential problem with QCTP on a small lathe - extra points and overhang to contend with.

Arceuro is my go-to supplier of all things for lathe/mill. They get most of my trade.

Another option is to make an identical 4-way toolpost and swap as necessary. OK, I never had more than three cutters installed, but a home-made copy could be cheap and reasonably effective as an alternative.

I’m guessing this is primarily a promotional thread by JB, due to the order of reporting progress?

I am sure there are a lot out there, that would like to know the cost of the kit?

I am expecting, from the tone of the introduction, that the kit cost was waived?

Am I too cynical, or am I correct in my appraisal? I, for one, think not. Still better than posting videis of chinese toys being unboxed, by posters paid in kind.

I’m in agreement with Baz and Duncan.

Not watched it and no intention at the present time. From what Paul wrote it may well just be clickbait.

Larry,

Spot on, there. Oil is cheaper than repairs. Filters are cheap, too.

The youtube channel which quite often hammers this home is “Just Rolled In”

One that fits your mileage is in THIS ONE. There are plenty of others on that channel. Excessive, but demonstrates the possibilities of poor, or no, maintenance.

Before I bought a peugeot diesel in 1987, I carried a container of oil but that car simply had an oil change at the service interval and the level fell to almost the lower mark on the dipstick at the next service. That car was still the same after 125k miles. Since then, a few cars have needed topping up (changing to semi-synthetic oils most certainly reduced consumption - very obvious with our volvo 480). My 27 year old peugeot 106 has not been topped up between oil changes although it has 136,000 miles on the clock.

Our three peugeot 2 1/4l turbo diesel 607 models have not normally needed topping up between service intervals. Those cars had completed 625k miles between them and oil consumption was still minimal (possibly some oil dilution between oil changes, but those engines were still good at 250,196 and 278 thousand miles

My recent acquisition should not need any oil until about 70,000 miles (I think) - when the gearbox oil will be at its service interval.

During WWII, engine parts - particularly valves - and other wearing items were welded up with stellite, before being ground back to service tolerance, as new parts were in short supply or unobtainable.

I have quite a few service data sheets from WWII on the subject of maintenance during wartimes (and likely the few years after).

I like that idea/method. Even though I’ve not yet broken anything by shrink fitting.

Boring/reaming provides a parallel bore and careful turning and finishing is generally no great problem for sizing the inserted part. I would never try to bore to fit the inserted part (well, not if I could possibly avoid it). I would normally leave the inserted part long, so I can basically make it ‘go-no go’ at the end to determine the oversize measurement.

The angle of the taper will determine the interference after shrinking the parts together, of course.

The one problem may be the final overall length - dependent on how far the inserted piece enters the taper?

I make my taper pins to go with taper reamers for small diameters - usually so they can be removed, if needed (much preferable to roll-pins!), but fitted ‘hot and cold’ could make taper pins really permanent (flush and almost invisible).

I know (or am fairly certain) MT2 joints can be difficult to part with only a few degrees difference when fitted and tightened. I use a straight-cut taper reamer for setting the angle of the taper as it is easy to measure/set the taper at precisely centre height.

How small is/are the angle(s) you are suggesting?

I shall certainly keep this in mind if/when the next shrink fit is required.

As I see it, case hardening followed by quenching is going to leave the steel through-hardened. Oil quench might be acceptable, but I’m not too expert on this. Case hardening is usually carried out on non-hardenable steel.

Unless there is a large surface contact area, between the cam follower and push rod, point contact may well lead to rapid wear if the case hardening fails at a highly loaded point contact.

Tempering at 550 Celsius seems rather high to me.

Andrew’s suggestion seems the best option.

Hardening is always prone to distortion. Surface finish should be after, heat treatment, not before.

How are the rods fitted? It looks like that end, at least should be tempered - more so than the follower end.

Back much before the Scimitar, many engines relied only on a bypass filter. They were good enough in the day, but not with precision thin-walled shells. They also revved much more slowly than a more modern engine!

Your bypass filter was likely of AMSOIL origin. They were (and still are) used with large truck engines, particularly in the USA, where the oil is regularly sampled and tested - and likely not changed in many thousands of miles. Testing, of course would soon flag up any excessive wear in the engine and likely direct the repairers to the specific wearing/worn parts.

Might be - but several previous threads ( or posts) appear to class that place as unreliable, at the very least.

It will not have a precision of 4 significant figures but should be far superior to one measuring to the nearest thou (which will also have a degree of accuracy and precision). Precision is merely the ability to read the same when repeat measurements are taken. A DTI is a comparative device, not providing an absolute reading with regard to accuracy.

Is it a DTI (dial test indicator) or a dial indicator (direct reading of the plunger)?

John,

The fine threads have nothing to do with resisting oil leakage - only fine to increase sealing pressure as the cap is tightened. The seal is between the gun lip and the ‘gasket ‘- if the gasket (seal ) is a complete circle (not a washer), If the gasket is is a washer, the oil may also leak between cap and washer.

I would be using a resilient gasket material such that it is not overly stretched as the gasket is forced against the cap. A washer type gasket would avoid any stretching and may work more efficiently, even though there are two surfaces to seal.

Starting point is flatness of the lip on the barrel of the gun (assuming the threads are actually parallel on both barrel and cap). Next, be sure there are still threads available when fully tightened (Is the seal actually thick enough). Seal material may need improving.

Knurl the axle, to increase its diameter, and loctite in place? Go all the way through and fill the hole later?

I would likely do it on the mill, rather than in the lathe.

Having failed, maybe sleeve the axle with a brass cap and then insert this, however you choose.