Member postings for not done it yet

My workshop is mostly a 100mm (or more) cocoon of PU insulation board with edges sealed with tape. It’s built inside a sectional concrete garage. Some of it was built with old garage doors and now with insulation both inside and out. The floor is 100mm (or 150mm) concrete with a damp-proof membrane about 150-200mm below the 50mm screed. It was extended with full sheets of 2400 x 1200mm Recticel (or similar) which, conveniently, fitted just below the roof members. The end , with only insulation, has strips of weld-mesh behind. The inside has been sheeted out with 12mm ply.

Moisture control is by a couple of small dehumidifiers (usually only one running, for up to a couple hours each night) in winter). It is warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Extra warmth is supplied by a chinese diesel air heater and I have installed a CO monitor, for extra safety. I don’t weld or angle grind inside my workshop.

Even the steel door is insulated inside and out. I’ve yet to see the temperature below 4 Celsius and it is usually 6-7 Celsius or above at a relative humidity of 60%ish.

Just remember that the part, when mounted in a collect, will already need to be completely/perfectly round.

It clearly needs to do some learning. How to read and how to count - as well as actually knowing that there are only 5 vowels in our alphabet!

Never mind same parts at different prices. A Peugeot drive shaft was £350 or £450 (can’t remember - and then likely VAT on top) from our local dealership. I supplied the £3 reluctor ring and they fitted it.

Same with the window winder - £160 from Peugeot but only needed an £18 one from a third party. The dealership fitted it. I have always got on well with the proprietor (and his Dad before him).

They also fitted two secondhand injectors (£70 for the pair instead of £250 each), a common rail injection pump (£30 or £40 instead of, guessing here, £600).

The dealership is not allowed, by contract, to supply non-Peugeot parts. Fitting them is a different story!🙂

On top, or aside, of this - cold rolled steel is significantly better (mechanically) than hot rolled if strength is important.

All materials are stressed when worked, Some more than others. Even hot rolled steel may have some stresses within the mass, but far less than cold rolled equivalent. Even think springs - they simply return to original when the strain is removed (as long as they are not over-stretched!).

Annealing (normalising) is the process to get the product to the state required (if not hardening and tempering). Remember, too, that heating, then cooling, will cause some minor change in shape. Finish machining, after any heat treatment, is likely necessary if precision is to be retained.

Making steel without carbon is impossible but do you have to use coal to to add the carbon into high carbon steel? We are mining and importing coal for the steel works in Wales.

Simply not true. The one percent of carbon (only in some steels) is nowt compared to the blast furnace fuel consumption.

trying to get that Petroleum is not a "fossil fuel" into the heads of politicians of all flavours, campaigners, journalists and the General Public is probably akin to rolling a whole barrel of the stuff up Ben Nevis.

Correct. Petroleum should only be used for making plastics, etc, not for burning - for heating or in inefficient engines to transform energy to another form (often motive force for doing work).

ASHP

Not particularly cost effective to replace a fossil fuel burner until that boiler is in need of replacement.heat pump installation is very much cost-prohibited without a large subsidy and will not show any (or much) financial gain when running (unless, of course, installed in an electric-only residence) when there is likely no government scheme for the 5 grand subsidy as it is not replacing a fossil fuel burner! The health issues of urban dwellers will be improved by both fewer fossils being burned (for space heating) and less pollution from vehicles burning liquid fuels quite inefficiently.

GSHP

Expensive to install unless lots of land or a handy stream. Boreholes are far more costly, but should last a lifetime. GSHP systems will show a much improved COP over an AHSP. No need for heating the cold-side heat exchanger like when an ASHP system freezes over.🙂

As the grid becomes less reliant on fossil fuels, the heat pumps will become a better option from all perspectives.

LUBE OIL

A minor usage of mineral oil. It can often be recycled. Plant based oils can be developed (Castrol R was a superb lubricant for racing engines in the past).

Ethanol is much lower mass than normal petrol or diesel

Is it? There was me thinking that one kilogram of ethanol had precisely the same mass as one kilogram of anything else!

Mass had little to do with M-G. The energy of a fuel depends on the ratio of Carbon to Hydrogen atoms in the fuel. The Oxygen in ethanol is slready part way to making water - is it not? Some chemistry bondig energies to consider when burning different compounds.🙂

Plastics

​​​​​​​Recycle, up-cycle or whatever. It ix a shame that some has to be burned to avoid ever-larger wate tips. Remember that man-made fibres are actually plastics. Cotton clothing is dead out of fashion due to cost, ease of washing, etc. cotton would not be adding to the micro-plastic particles in our environment.

And so it goes on. Petroleum should really only be used as a base for compounds/materials that are really necessary - not for burning. Coal likewise - but not for burning.

Much of the the current problem is the unrest in the world and over-population. Only when energy can be converted for all the human requirements - without the need for either coal or oil - will we prevent/reduce the current global temperature increase. Likely there will still be too many humans on the planet … but that is another matter…

Edited By not done it yet on 03/08/2023 22:47:11

If the machines have bolt holes for fixing own, use them for that. Shimmed level and secure would be my choice.

No rocking.

If the floor is that uneven, there will be a place to get a pry bar under.🙂

Avoid your concerns.

Edited By not done it yet on 03/08/2023 21:27:30

Secondly, sorry for asking as I seem to have opened a can of worms.

No need to apologise and no can of worms at all - just another ‘compromise’ explained. Nothing more than cutting gears with the eight different cutters in a set - each cutter (should) only really fit one tooth count, the rest being ‘OK’ but still a compromise - series production (think commercial gearboxes, etc) would never use a ‘compromise’ cutter.

Little different than most hobby mills cutting ‘conventionally’ whereas a commercial mill would employ ‘climb’ milling - because they can - as it is the better option if possible.

Remove a 100kg, or so, of parts from the main body of the machine?

I might be encouraged to sort out, and modify, one of my old battery powered variable two speed screwdrivers (dead NiCads) by replacing the trigger with a remotely mounted potentiometer/rheostat and drive it from a suitable power supply.

Actually up to 30%, if you were to spend out eight grand on a surface grinder!

Not always first choice, but is, for sure, for anything broken off flush and stuck.

Not a chance of trying cheap chinese ‘easy-outs’! They are only good for loose screws or the bin.🙂

How near to Spalding and which side? If you intend scrapping it (if nobody else pipes-up) I could collect, when passing, and possibly find a good home for it, … sometime.

It is a fairly minor job to replace/extend that existing threaded part. Best done with an operational lathe, mind. That old stud reminds me of lug studs for fitting wheels to vehicles.

As these noises were not there before, yhey have been ‘operator induced’. I think you need to ‘re-tune’ taking Brian’s suggestions on board.

The wheels, bearings and tracking devices can be awkward to sort out if it is wear or adjustmrnt. Starting from scratch, and re-building it properly, should avoid unwanted noises.

A photograph blown up on a printer is a good way to measure pitch/tpi. Comparison of the diameter, to the length of several threads can usually provide a good estimate.

Thread gauges are an item that comes in useful fairly regularly? They do, for me.

The vise is worth fifty quid of anyone’s money, likely a fair bit more, and the drill looks like a precision piece of kit but not so popular - it might make good money, but only if more than one person really wanted it, at auction.

Edited By not done it yet on 27/07/2023 23:26:25

Expect something to be out of line/sub-standard, if bought with a vevor sticker. On the mathematical probability scale, I would say ‘likely’ rather than ‘possibly’.🙂

Dunno about the rest

Butter patter.