Member postings for not done it yet

Weell, I read it a the friend at the engineering place was simply going to make an adaptor for mounting the die to some machine! It only needs to be hand held, shirley? Taking naff all off an already formed thread?

Or is it really a metric bsw/unc/totally unknown thread which will be messed up completely by yet another guesser?

The face plate should be cut to fit the spindle. Every time. A basic principle. Do it right. Job should have been done right in the first place - the spindle should have gone to axminster(?) in the first place.

All very well if you're cutting the thread in acetal, but Robin asked for help for cutting brass.

You clearly missed my point. Do look back at the (several?) related posts from a month back. It is all to do with a leadscrew half nut for a wood turning lathe, I am sure. Existing nut is delrin.

This topic (in several different threads) has now been going on for over a month. Do the easy option. Partly cut the thread in the acetal and fully form it by 'heat 'n squeeze'.

Re the garage door problem - the house footings on clay are likely to be much deeper than the garage, hence the problem even without tree roots (which will make things worse!).

For non-level surfaces, shims are the obvious way to be bolting anything down!

My 'flimsy' (not really!) 3.2mm folded and tapered cabinet is mounted on a 6'' plinth of 1/2'', or so, thick cast iron base which simply stands on a substantial concrete garage floor. Base weighs around 100kg, stand around the same and the lathe about 175kg. With about another 60kg of 'ballast' in the cupboard and in the base I ddon't think mine is going anywhere! It is a 5'' centre height lathe.

If the plug thread is parallel it should have a sealing washer on a flat sealing surface of the plug against a machined seat on the housing, so no ptfe tape, etc should be required. Sometimes the sealing surfaces are chamfered for a crush or deforming washer.

Words with more than one syll-ab-ul folks. Try it like this.

It is the thing used at the place where the force of the cut (for a lathe), or the load on the end, is thwart in the line of the axis of a round bar while it is spun (or it could be still and pushed, I dare say).

The force on a shaft while it turns by a belt drive would be like a spoked line of force which bears on the side of the thing in which it runs (on which the shaft slides). This force must be pushed back by a force of the same size, too.

All force must be the same in all lines or the shaft would move. These two are at right bend to each and each can be more boss at any one time.

Edited By not done it yet on 05/11/2016 16:17:28

Plastic carboys, not glass! It was only about 30 years ago, so moved on from the glass ones by then! Long lived because I still have two which are used to store diesel. Superceded by the IBC for chemicals, I suppose.

Brian (66 year of age with eyebrows and all fingers intact)

Like me, probably too old, now, to pass on (or not) our genes to the next generation. Mine are already two generations beyond me.

Darwin only applies to those without offspring, unless the next generation get removed before passing on their faulty genes!

Concrete and steel have very similar cofficients of expansion. Lucky, that, or a lot of reinforced concrete would not survive long...

If I ever needed some large cast iron bits, I would pop over to a mate and get a couple of good tractor suitcase weights for that money.

As a chemist, steer clear of concentrated acids (and alkalis) unless you know what you are doing. Treat all dilute acids with great care (proper ppe and other appropriate precautions). As above, steer clear of hydroflouric acid as it is extremely dangerous (tanker drivers used to be issued with scalpels to cut away tissue if splashed with the stuff!). It may still be used in wheel cleaners (low %), but I would not even use those products on principle.

Reactions can be different. Nitric can set fire to sawdust, while sulphuric will remove water and leave it as charcoal

Yes, we used chromic acid to clean our glassware at school and work, we diluted our concentrated sulphuric acid, used fuming acids. Aqua regia (conc hydrochloric/nitric acid), for dissolving gold and other precious metals, by the 50l carboy. On the alkali side, siliceous products were dissolved in molten sodium or potassium hydroxide (and dumped in hot water soon after it solidified!)

Glacial ethanoic acid is used in soap making and bought by beekeepers (for fumigation with 70% acid). Drain cleaners, as stated, are readily available. All quite safe, but only if you know what you are doing. Kettle cleaner is formic acid (another strong acid and also used by beekeepers).

In particular, you only have one pair of eyes. Don't lose your sight!

Agree wholeheartedly with 12 bore.

Boat anchors, etc is likely the best area of use.

The only comment I would make is that I would be checking the casting quality of the apron, if you are sure your attempts at fitting the plug is the best possible.

Possibilities might be cross threading (if it is leaking past the threads), a cracked casting or a porous casting. Might be others, but if leaking while just standing there are not too many options. Question might be: is it a tapered or parallel thread?

IF YOU ARE NOT SURE: FIND OUT, or CALL IN SOMEONE WHO DOES KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DONG

I think Howard has it in a nutshell. (spelling might not be 100%, but that is gong a bit too far!).

I haven't yet seen the item in question. I may choose to simply fast scan and not read most of it in detail, but there may be something new, or I have overlooked - or even forgotten. New hobbyists should not be encouraged in any way to take an unsafe course of action. Many have grown up in era of 'everything must be guarded, so is safe'; I grew up when one learned to look after yourself where safety was concerned? Sadly, Common Sense seems to have died a long time ago?

An accident is an unforeseen event. While some accidents may have a good outcome, most include damage or injury. A lot of us would benefit from reviewing our current (pardon the pun) methods. One only has to watch some u-toob vids to realise the potential for accidents is out there just waiting to happen. I personally hate electric chain saws - at least a petrol type is totally safe When the engine is stopped!

I have been 'seconded' as a safety officer at vintage machinery events, in the past, and that opens one's eyes to poor practise by a minority, or simple improvements to avoid Joe Public being inconvenienced. Working on your own, with possible serious risk of injury, is an extra factor to take into account.

Thanks, Steve Pavey. Clearly more than one u-toob to demo this. Now, even more of us can see that a brake is simply not required when threading to a shoulder - as long as the lathe has a threading dial. My original lathe (for about twenty years) didn't have a thread dial so I got so used to not releasing the power feed and didn't give it any thought until I was enlightened by u-toob.

TNot when he is cutting imperial threads on a metric lathe, surely?

It does not make a jot of difference whether metric to imperial or vice versa. One is only reversing the screw until the same point on the dial, the rest of the reversing is with the half nuts engaged. It is simple and it works. One does not leave the lathe running for an unlimited time, so reversing the screw after stopping the lathe immediately simply drops those half nuts in exactly the same place as a few seconds before. Try it. I think doubleboost has demo'd it as he was as sceptical as I was (had always been told you could not disengage the half nuts, even for an instant, during a threading operation such as this). Think of actually stopping the lathe, disengaging the half nuts and re-engaging. Not a lot of difference, really, but an extension of just a few turns of the chuck past and back.

If it has a thread dial on the lead screw, the half nuts can be released. They must then be re-engaged as the lathe is started in reverse, as the dial passes the number it was cutting at. A s

imple alternative that avoids any drastic braking.

Whether or not the brake acts before, within or after the gearbox is bound to increase momentary loadings, which cannot be seen as the most ideal mode of operation. As an extreme, a gear could fail, but unlikely at that speed. Won't do the brake any good, either, I would think.

Question is - does it start when the air tank is completely empty? If it does, the unloader system is most likely the fault. If it will not start, remove the drive belt (if it has one) and see if the motor starts, or check that the compressor turns freely.

Your post seems to indicate the motor does run off load. If so, when does it stop? As the tank is filling or only when the compressor tries to restart automatically?

Maybe he obesity will take over from smoking to get the life expectancy down

Only in the news today that life expectancy in the US is declining. Being put down to obesity.

Edited By not done it yet on 01/11/2016 18:37:54

government loses about 2 billion pounds a year

Government will get it back elsewhere - no doubt about that. But the NHS will (eventually) be saving a billion or so.

What surprised me was the number of amputees (fag related) who collected outside the hospital entrance to get their drag. Slow learners or of weak resolve. They will steadily work their way out of the system.... Even the government didn't really care while taxation income exceeded the NHS costs (until some bright spark pointed out the social costs as well.

Btw, do you know why the government hates thieves? It's because they don't like the competition!

Edited By not done it yet on 01/11/2016 07:51:00