Member postings for not done it yet

provide good wear characteristics"

Yep, discs generally outlast the friction pads (which are the more regular service replacements).

Friction pads are formulated for differing characteristics while discs are most commonly just cast iron.

It is easy to check the angle, if not set it. Reading x and y at two points will give you the tangent of the angles by dividing one into the other.

You stick welding problems are likely one or more of numerous failings.

Cheap welder, poor rods or selection, wrong current, poorly prepared surfaces, not enough practice and a welding mask which is not ideal.

I can weld, but not an expert (like my younger brother). He has had inverter welder for some time and keeps on recommending I get one, too. I just use my huge oil cooled stick welder, purchased from the local college many moons ago. It needs at least a 16A supply and 'drains the mains' at switch-on. It is a 2 phase welder capable of about 400A, I would think, but I only run it on single phase. But it does run rings around these little cheap portable stick welders. Everything except portability!

The slag should not be a problem to remove - if it is, there is some welding shortcoming somewhere! I would suggest most of the problem is the cheap, underpowered welder, practice and helmet. My auto darkening visor made my welding so much easier.

As above, a good mig would prolly do all you need. I hate the small, hobby type. Not yet done any tig so no comment possible. I stick to arc welding if possible because of the cost of gas for my minimal usage.

C.Z. metal bender trivia.

The original, I believe, was sold as the UNIVERSAL multi-purpose metal bender. Or it appears to be the same. Made in Germany. Mine was advertised as 'new to the UK' and was received on 31st Jan 1985 at a cost of £29.50 plus £2.50 p&p. from an advert in ME 18th Jan 1985.

It came with 3 page 'Directions for use', A3 folded, comprising a drawing with part numbers 1-15 described under (first page), 3 diagrams of basic operations (second page) and a one page set of operating instructions. This a bit yellowed with age and does not photocopy too well.

Mine is housed in a home made wooden box with internal dims of 285 x 210 x 100mm and prhaps could do with a little more space (I bolted on a 220 x 120 x 18mm piece of ply for easy vise mounting) if more

mandrels were required. It is also just too small to contain the instructions in a plastic folder, without bendi

ng!

It did need that article, six years later, to allow its ubiquitous nature to be more fully appreciated.

I don't use mine often enough - but its not eating anything!

Is a knurl an option? That is what I would try with a slack fit. Loctite would fill the gaps, if nothing else!

I'd use metal if I could.

Same as JS - bollox!

Why metal?

Plastic gears are perfectly serviceable and much more easily 'reformed by heat and pressure' if needed. 'Metal' has to be a softer than one which might wear the lead screw eventually. Brass gears are expensive, particularly cut at an angle.

Delrin gears are often used in the gear train before the lead screw, so are perfectly able to withstand a low load situation, which this is - it is only an indicator, after all!

Brake discs? Go to your local automotive trade supplier. Preferably a supplier with someone who has been there a looong time (rest can only cross reference for registration numbers!). Or try a local heavy goods haulier that employs a mechanic for service/repairs.

Most rear discs are non-ventilated, I would guess.

Edited By not done it yet on 13/01/2017 10:40:31

Not really enough information. Washing machine motors, over the years, have changed. The really old ones were more easily adapted for alternative uses. Modern ones might be more useful as a generator than a drive motor for a small powered machine.

Buy in a plasticspur gear and go for it, if the load on the gear is light. If you wished for more thread engagement, run it while giving a blast from a hot air gun? Looks like a 20DP pinion to me.

The last thread dial I sold was then fitted with a plastic gear and worked A1.

HPC, or similar, are cheap enough.

Be aware that the power feed will almost certainly be 415V, while the usual replacement 3 phase motor to power the spindle, would be 220V for use on a single phase supply.

415V VFDs are rather more costly than 220V versions for any given size. Mine, I think has a 415V inverter for the power feed and now has a VFD driving the 3 phase 220V spindle motor.

The half nuts, I believe, can be done away with, if they fail and cannot be sourced/repaired, and a full manual lead screw nut installed. Those half nuts are only to allow for fast traverse of the long travel and, as hobbyists, we are not usually in that much of a hurry....?

Two Centecs sold on epay this last week.

2A with riser block, Mklll head and power feed and a 2B with Mklll head but prolly no overarm.

Both made over £900. A Mklll head made around £600 recently (on epay).

I'm a member of a small model engineering society - only about 20 members - and there are three of us with Centecs.

Riser bock is more important for the 2A, but handy if you have the head room. Power feed is a definite bonus.

Mklll heads (with quill) are much more sought after than the Mks l and ll.

Go for it. Spares? Make your own for most wearing items? They have been around for decades and can still be put back to original spec, I expect. In good order they are, IMO, far better value than any chinese equivalent (there are probably none, as these are perfectly at home for both horizontal and vertical milling) for most hobbyists.

it's quicker than odd leg caliper.

Time is not generally a limiting factor these days. Rough and ready is a couple of pencil marks, one from each side, at each end - like a chippy makes - and scribe a line midway between the two pairs along the length. Close enough for gate hinges. Otherwise, on the mill if accuracy is needed.

But there, I'm vintage but not an engineer

I would dig out my odd leg scriber if the dro was not available on the mill.

Yep, what do they say? Buy cheap, buy twice. And it's clear that they know now about pcp airguns either! (Here's a really old link to airgun regulators, for any one remotely interested:

http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread.php?98032-Accuracy-Regulated-vs-unregulated

Certainly moved on in ten years but only the really expensive ones are electronically operated these days (and likely not anything on the pressure regulation side, either!).

Girder? A 300I've seen identical angle grindidentical from the outsiders from the outsideJ? Cutting it all the way through? Once or twice?

Advice? Buy a 300mm angle grinder of about 2 1/2kW and of good parentage.

Use it appropriately, or get someone who does know how to use it, to do the job for you.

I'll not bother to ask when Aldi opened their store in Harrogate. Maybe it was fifteen quid once, but it is now scrap, or at least an uneconomic repair...

Repeat after me "buy cheap, buy twice"

A bit like CF, I've seen angle grinders that look identical from the outside but of entirely differing quality when opened up for inspection. Saying that, my last makita screwdriver was a POS. Batteries good, charger good, machine carp. An unexpected outcome. Back to 'Bodge', 'High Tachy' or even 'D Wolt' if I ever need another.

What normally holds it tight in position when in use? Through bolt(s) or clamping set screw or bolt? A pic or two?

If a clamping bolt, spread the slot with a wedge? Just guessing.

Fix on something to give it a jolt -similar to a slide hammer?

Heat the headstock and cool the column?

Tell usa bit more.

Perhaps the OP might have listed the diameter and pitch at the beginning? Much less obscure discussion and more sensible outcome in fewer guesses (or without any) from the members. I expect JS is correct.

There might also be an electric window winder that could be considered (to replace the windscreen wiper motor) - somewhat more powerful. Worth considering before buying an under-powered wiper motor system?

Voltage might be important! 12 or 24V?