Member postings for not done it yet

Certainly not balsa either. Easier to know what it isn’t.

I would expect it to be Common Treewood.

No. I made a workshop by bolting together old garage doors, with insulation, inside a sectional concrete garage. Just as I writ it!

I am in the process of extending the workshop area. 20m^2 of 100mm thick insulation is ready and waiting to be incorporated. The insulation cost me £50 and the old garage doors were free. A further 4 full sheets of 100mm kingspan set me back £33 (so expensive!). The sectional garage has been in situ for about 25 years.

Density is less than water, so not lignum vitae, which sinks in water (LV has a density of c.1230kg/m^3).

Although timber sheds are more aesthetic, there is actually nothing actually wrong with a metal shed.

Condensation is a function of relative humidity with temperature. Keep the air warm and dry and there will be no condensation problem. That means well insulated on the inside, a means of water escape for that which will condense on the inner sides of the metal (like flat metal roofs are not recommended for this!) and well sealed while not in use (but with good ventilation when In use).

My workshop is made of scrapped garage doors bolted/screwed together and well insulated. Admittedly constructed inside a concrete sectional garage - but machines would suffer from condensation if it were not warmed and (particularly) kept at a reasonable relative humidity. The desiccant dehumidifier supplies warmth and keeps the RH under control.

Doesn’t actually look like lignum vitae. As I remember wooden electrical fitting bits, they floated in water. What is the density of that item?

Windscreen replacement business is likely a good place to try.

Daylight is likely good enough light source (in the summer?).

Gillie,

Stop moaning. Get a life and hassle someone else. Anyone interested in the item could so easily open ebay and search for Centec. The rest would not be interested.

So far i have managed six ‘transportation events’ with Raglan LJs and a 5”. All easily accomplished on my own - and the last four in my Citroen Saxo. No stands involved with the car, mind! Removal of motor, carriage and tailstock makes them easy enough to manhandle, in and out of the car, by one person. One LJ bed/headstock casting was carried down stairs by two people.

So not a difficult task, if properly secured to a pallet and in the hands of a reputable carrier.

For anyone with a (very rough) Centec 2A , or wanting one, there is what looks like a nearly complete machine on offer for the next six days or until someone makes the seller a sensible offer (reading the seller’ description very carefully). Looks like never assembled but I cant see the base or overarm. May be some other bits missing. Nothing at all to do with me.

Edited By not done it yet on 24/01/2018 10:37:55

That does not limit your right to sue the carrier for negligence. Accidental damage is rather different than negligence on their part.

You conveniently left of the part off my quote regarding 5Hz being about the most a single phase motor might put up with. An earlier poster mentioned dual Hz motors being OK at either European or American frequencies. Many motors specify only one frequency (ie need a different design for the 10Hz difference), so I would think that more than a 10% frequency change is not permitted for any one design.

Edited By not done it yet on 24/01/2018 09:37:14

Hopper is right. If in mild steel, there might be little problem with even a hole for an arbor - just weld it up and face it later. Even more than one, if bolted to a face plate.

I would be careful if using a rotary table. Other than a light finishing cut, unless the table drive were adequate for this type of work, as I believe that many modern designs are clearly not up to the job.

Fly cutting may be the answer, but likely considerable power/slow speed required for a large diameter?

Single phase motors are designed to operate most efficiently at the rated frequency. Large deviations are more of a problem than three phase equivalents, one presumes. Motors for either 50 or 60Hz are, I expect, happiest running at 55Hz and any further deviation than ±5Hz would likely compromise the design.

Re buying a 1425rpm motor - likely the OP wants a rather smaller incremental speed change than 50%.

what was regulated

The field current, I expect.

I often buy cheaper cells from epay or L*dl, so i don’t expect them to last as long. They do have a shelf life, even though quite a long period for some cells.

That is good service. The blotchy display was likey a well documented fault. Good of them to replace without quibble and in short time, too.

We have found Proops to be fairly cheap, but of reasonable quality. Their prompt action will certainly encourage us to order from them in the future.

Not a particularly long stroke engine, but a four stroke OHV engine, was that fitted to the Mercette moped. A superb little jobbie. I had a Mercette back in the late ‘50s/early ‘60s and thrashed it unmercifully around the fields. Unfortunately it was left at the farm and skipped at the end of the ‘90s (by my brother). I should have recovered it before then - but isn’t hindsight good!

Now a very, very rare machine, of course, but I believe there are some engines still around as they were a ‘bought-in item (the maker’s name begins with a P, I think). The last machine I saw for sale was priced at four grand! Apparently only four known examples were remaining, I recall reading somewhere

There may be other small engines for mounting on bicycles, but I don’t know of any four strokers. There is one small engine on a bicycle in the Ipswich Transport Museum which originally had plans for home construction (although I could not locate any, about five years ago).

The museum is well worth a visit, mainly for other forms of local historical travel. I think I may return for another visit later this year....

Two stroke engines might include the 25 or 32cc cyclemaster engine (fitted to the rear wheel) or a powerpak (the engine drives the bike by lowering the engine onto the rear tyre. (Mine needs a new chain connecting link. They are, I think, slightly wider than a normal bike chain).

I know there were some French offerings made...

So, perhaps yet another angle to investigate?

I think Hatz made a quite tiny diesel a very long time ago (before the 7*/7*8 range). They rarely come up for sale, but might be worth watching out for - but they are not cheap even if a non-runner - and quite possibly they would not run slowly enough.

Hi Matt,

You would probably benefit from an investment on a user manual.

If it is a change wheel model the gear train may be worn or not set up properly (so noisy).

There may be an interlock operating which prevents both long and cross travel power feeds operating at the same time.

Epay, lathesdotcodotuk or the yahooforums might well provide a manual at reasonable cost or free to download.

Lathesdotco is likely your best port of call for basic information on your lathe. A superb site for info of all kinds on machinery of this type.

The particular poster is a PITA at times (my opinion of course), but one only needs to look back at some of the late JS comments and one could very well come to the same conclusion.

Bl**dy amazing! Believe it or not, when I keyed in my post I was sure I keyed in 1000, but on checking, before posting, I noticed the ‘error’. It read ‘100’ so I changed it (as I thought) to 1000, and posted it. And it still turned out as ‘100‘!

New ‘puter. Better for adding quotes, rather than copying and pasting (although I rather like to p*ss off one particular moaner), but it will not capitalise the singular first person pronoun automatically like my old slooow ‘puter, will not shift the cursor to the end of a word it does not like and has a few other other quirks I have yet to sort out or get used to - like it will not change properly to a new paragraph (on this forum, only!).

Please PM me with any useful tips. It is an Apple Pro 12.9.