Member postings for not done it yet

Unless it was to be a working cannon, who would care if the hole was 6” or 12” if muzzle loaded. But we have no real idea of what is wanted. Just guesses unless the OP enlightens us.

There are several ways to do it, as always - or usually!

Machine flat and drill for a row of screws and file to form. There are a couple of change wheel gears, on my previous lathe, that had been repaired that way.

Remove below level of teeth and replace the one tooth however you choose (better for when several teeth are damaged). Weld, braze - or even shrink fit - could work equally as well.

Weld as you suggest, but it may be awkward to machine.

I prefer to drop in some grub screws, file/grind to make machining, or filing to profile, easier and fill the gap with braze, then machine the new tooth.

Might be others.

Edited By not done it yet on 10/05/2018 15:40:49

Yes, but... Is it a blind drilling or through hole? Is it the barrel bore or behind the gun barrel for support?

Approaches may be different.

My first question would be ‘’Why such a large hole through such a depth of material?’’

Poster gives no application details and there may even be alternatives to such a hole...straightness and size control may be issues which need addressing. Personally, I would avoid drilling such a hole, unless specifically required (such as in a gun barrel, for instance).

Yup! I read your first post as simply for info of how you did it - and that it was working perfectly.

Unless the coefficient of expansion is much greater for the holder, it won’t loosen on heating. Cryogenic cooling might help, if appropriate. Otherwise the holder would need to be removed from the tool - in chips - I would imagine.

I don’t feel that it is the depth difference between tips - more likely one tooth is cutting on a larger diameter - the one check that doubleboost either forgot about doing, or conveniently ignored.

The tool I bought, which was no good had a supposed morse taper that was of the wrong angle and only gripped at the drawbar end, so chattered in the morse socket. Total carp.

Is this the same one that was recently reviewed, on u-toob, for banggood?

Filling in your profile might help, if a recommendation is forthcoming. Shipping could be one problem.

Is this a three jaw chuck? You would be lucky to achieve better than a thou. runout for any three jaw unless the lathe is good, the chuck is a very expensive one and you are very lucky.

I got a load of oilers from ‘the nipple shop’ (honest - no joke). They may do something better than the basic type as well as the standard spring top cup.

One word for brushless and unless the drive is fitted to the spindle it will not be a direct drive.

It might be the same speed as the motor, depending on pulleys or gears, but I only call it a direct drive if the motor and spindle are in a direct line axially - such as many engine driven alternators where the rotating armature or field winding are affixed with a tapered shaft or flexible coupling.

One cannot change the speed of a direct drive unless the motor speed is changed. With a belt drive (indirect drive), the machine speed can be chosen by choice of two pulley sizes, a variator or a set of stepped pulleys.

The link only says the drawers are locked when the lid is closed. I have one like that - drawers are secure while carrying, but are not petty thief proof as the lid catches are not lockable.

Or do the lid ctches lock? I didn’t think so.

Just remember to read ‘between the lines’ of any review. Reviews are notoriously biased - one way or the other.

I run a dashcam at front and back. It will help a claim, but obviously not much help to the OP.

Wife’s car was written off by an eastern european lorry driver who did not have the appropriate mirrors fitted. Took years to get it sorted out.

Steady on, hopper! ‘May be’ is a gross understatement if there is a difference in OD of 1/8th of a whole inch! That would be a simple explanation for an expected failure due to to a dangerous installation! Nowt to do with metallurgy failure here if there is such a mismatch of threads.

Is Newark auto jumble far enough north?

You needed a stronger pick and a birminham screwdriver, I reckon.​

Are you determined to run it on steam? Compressed air is always an option.

I test my air receiver at 20 Bar, or so. Filled with water and then pressurised with a grease gun. Simple and safe.

Btw - By The Way