Member postings for not done it yet

Nearly always is my reply to the OP.

‘Why have a dog and bark yourself’ comes to mind.

My response to those, that might decry the method, would be ‘Do you use the long travel power feed, or do you always feed by hand? I would assume they do, if it is available. There is a term for those that do one thing one way but decry the operation if carried out in the other direction.

If youf bar wad truly 60mm in diameter and you put a hole in the centre, remounting in the lathe can be aligned by clocking on the outside diameter.

As above, removing a small amount of bur on the start of the attempted tapping will make little difference to the end product

Cutting any fresh hole, with a 24mm tap in steel (if this is the the actual material - you don’t say) will require a great deal of manual effort, even with a taper tap.. I hope your drill vise is secure!

Ady1’s method is the obvious way to go - especially as you gave a lathe!

Yes, he said both bangs were from the switch - a distace from the RCD and/or circuit breaker in the consumer panel.

Try working out the current using Ohm’s Law when the resistance is zero. Voltage will be zero, but the current will be indeterminate.

Edited By not done it yet on 08/04/2023 20:14:32

I think you will not (easily) reverse the bendix. The pinion teeth are likely chamfered, for easier engagement with the flywheel ring gear.

I would think the first ‘bang’ was the neon connection fusing - but not taking the 45A (?) breaker - and the second was line to earth connection, possibly due to a reconnection due to an already melted conductor making a further short circuit? Just guessing, of course.

Edited By not done it yet on 08/04/2023 08:39:50

Our boiler has just a single electrode which provides the ignition spark and detects the pilot flame. Advances in electronics, I suppose - but our boiler is over 15 years old.

Unused spindles? With very mild surface rust? Me? I would use an (old, but good) morse taper and coat it with fine grinding/lapping paste. Do the job (only needing a very light touch to avoid the parts gripping) and clean up the two parts, ready for use elsewhere. Can’t think of anything much simpler.

I would probably use a blacksmith drill so there is plenty of ‘stick-out’ to hold securely and twist gently.

A wooden former with fine ‘wet and dry’ stuck to it should be easy enough?

The small Raglan mill is delightfully light to use, both traversing and raising the knee. But I think raising the head on a wm18 might need a bit more oomph than traversing the table on the little Raglan.

At least the head is a fairly constant weight, not like raising s table with a heavy item loaded onto it.

I think I would investigate the assister rams, to lighten the load, before deciding on the size of the motor required.

I expect all chinese mini-lathes are not the same. Some indications of machine make might help a bit?

First question is: 220 or 440 volts?

I’m going to run his vid at low speed to see where he has the extra air feed. Either that loop, just off-camera or that T is actually a 4 way connector.🙂

Edited By not done it yet on 02/04/2023 09:48:20

Think, here, if the ways were reeeally wide apart (which obviously they are not) you could fit a reeeeally large faceplate. If it is even exactly 4.5” to centre height, a 9.0” faceplate would clear unless the ways were very close together.

(censored) ium tri-iodide production was banned, where I worked, after a warming/drying cabinet was virtually destroyed when someone closed the door too sharply. Often left on the fume cubpoard stops and on open window frames. Same with pic*** a**d salts, too. Smashing rubber bungs (after cooling in liquid nitrogen) was also frowned upon, but some fun was allowed or tolerated - as long as it was nog too regular.

I’ve done mine on the lathe. Could have done them on the miil, I suppose. Mine were already bored, so only enlarged. One was needed slightly smaller, so bored large emough to be bushed and bored to size (with adequate bush thickness for the keyway . Same sort of idea with gears which need modifying/repairing.

I would agree it is likely the inverter has failed - but it could also be the motor, too.

I would be checking the resistance of each phase, not just continuity. If one phase is internally shorted …..

Edited By not done it yet on 30/03/2023 19:50:38

A simple solution if one has a welder. Another alternative is to turn a lump of steel to a suitable diameter and mill across the centre and sides to provide the pegs. Maybe a hole through the bar for a tommy bar. Job done.

Either way, I would most certainly not be shelling out £130 for a fancy tool - unless I had a very large number of these bolts or nuts (in different sizes) to loosen/tighten on a regular basis.

With my inner boy-racer locked in the boot, I get much better mpg at a steady 55mph on motorways than I do in cities.

Dave,

Should you really be doing that speed in the city?

I’ve recently been getting over 47mpg from our 2.2 diesel auto 607 on a long run. It does not smoke even after 175k miles. I have never yet topped up the engine oil, in the three we have had, between changes. Likely a little fuel dilution in each 20k miles between services, but oil still on the dipstick full-mark.

I will shortly only be left with the Pogo 106 oil burner (the big car has, effectively, been replaced by a BEV), as my run-around skip.

It is difficult to work an auto that hard. Yes, I can hold it in a lower gear, but the engine is never going to be heavily over-loaded and it will rev past the obvious gear change point by quite some margin. They recommend an ‘occasional’ 20(?) mile run at around 50mph in order to regenerate the DPF, that is all.

Bazyle makes a good point. 100rpm might be tops for some marine engines.

The Lister CS pottered along for years at 650rpm max.

High speed diesel engines have not been around for so long? In the early 1960s(?) there was the Landrover engine - converted from the petrol version, which was never a “good” engine (4200rpm, I think).

Detergent oils becoming available virtually removed the gumming problem of previous engines (including diesel, petrol and distillate fuels). Again, wear was a factor of materials of the day and tolerance of parts. Things have moved on in recent decades.

My first diesel car (ignoring the Landy) left me at 125k miles with the engine in pristine condition - a peugeot 205. Our first 607 had covered 250k before being written off - the engine was still good. The second was scrapped at 195k due to other issues and the present one will fail its next MOT for body/chassis issues. None have needed oil between oil changes.

Smoke is more likely due to injection short-comings.

Nobody will use the swing over the bed as a measure for a QCTP as it is generally mounted on the compound slide.

As much as I agree with Arceurotrade as a good suggestion (JB’s link?) for purchasing (my favoured supplier, btw) I would not be recommending a set - unless you intend using all the holders.

I bought a set a few moons ago and wished I hadn’t. One holder has been modified and another does not get used (the unused one is the parting-off tool holder which requires resetting every time the ‘stick-out’ is changed!). Initially it seriously annoyed me, then I changed to an alternative QCTP each time I parted off. I bought a lathe with a rear tool post for parting off - and now never use anything else. I don’t like the ‘push type of knurler - I prefer the scissor-action version. Just my preference on that one.

I would still suggest Arc as a good, reliable supplier. I have no complaints at all of their service. Second to none as far as I am concerned.

There is sharp and there is properly sharp! What may look like it is sharp (would cut you) might need a very much finer finish to the cutting edge. Look up ‘honing’.