Member postings for not done it yet

Personally I think the OP has no idea of how wedges should be employed. These are not wedges inserted separately - they are a pair which overlap each other on both sides of the morse taper as they pass over/under the other wedge creating a very considerable force perpendicular to their direction of movement.

I have actually surface-ground the sides of my larger pair, so they slide more easily over one another (and across the morse socket and lip of the male taper). The angle of attack is very shallow such that the change in total width increases only very slightly with a relatively large distance travelled in the direction of force applied perpendicular to the extraction direction. If the OP thinks it is just a matter of using a couple of wedge shaped levers, he is mistaken.

The action is similar to that of an adjustable parallel - but with far shallower angle. A bit, but only a bit like that but it does give one the idea behind the principle where movement in one direction changes the size in the perpendicular dimension. If the OP had made a couple, he would have most likely already have separated his ‘frozen’ items.

I have removed umpteen flywheels from crankshafts (with tapers), using pullers. These pullers employ a fine thread and a large spanner and can provide fairly immense force - but also have often needed a ‘bump’, when the joint separates with a considerable release of energy as the two parts separate.

Anyone who has regularly changed track-rod ends on vehicle steering systems would also comprehend the force required to separate those joints, too. They, too, often separate very suddenly when the separation force finally overcomes the joint contact.

I’ll rest my case for use of wedges to separate tapers. Can’t really say much more without upsetting some, if I haven’t already.

Edited By not done it yet on 31/05/2023 07:17:15

Nor me - and likely many others. If we had dims of housing etc, I might suggest welding in something that can be machined as a bearing housing - then fit the shaft and bearings?

Thoughts on stainless steel against steel? Not my favourite, for sure.

From the most recent thread, on this topic, that I posted on:

I use couple of wedges, one from each side, to loosen the MT, if a light tap (with a white- or yellow-metal mallet) does not free it off. Wedges are strung together to prevent droppage and it only needs the drawbar to be loosened, so the cutter and holder cannot drop out completely until under-control removal.

Has worked, for me, on every occasion. I have a couple of pairs, in two thicknesses, which have covered all my requirements. There used to be MT3 tapers with threaded collars - these collars were tightened against the end of the socket to perform easy removal. Arceurotrade used to stock them but not sure if they do now.

When fitting tapers, make sure they do not get ‘shrink-fitted’ together. Ensuring the male taper is warmer than the socket, or at the same temperature, will avoid this (common?) problem. That is along with not over-tightening the drawbar. Morse tapers generally do not slip under axial load (no drawbar needed for drilling operations).

JB,

Did you reduce other dimensions - other than the bore? If you halved the bore it will be only one quarter (not half) of the capacity, surely?

If I remove the centre bushing and just tightend the one clamp bolt slightly, I can tram it relative easy and quick to the table.

Then why not just do it like that? Nothing like making a job hard work, just for the sake of it! Live and learn is what I suggest.

Yes! That ^. Occasionally one might need rings in exotic materials, but my boxes of imperial and metric have kept me out of trouble for the last approx 20 years.

Mine will long out-last me, but the rings already used have paid for the boxes multiple times I expect. My wife bought me a box of tiny rings for little money. The ones used in a very high pressure pump would have cost considerably more than the whole box of rings.

Dunno about screw cutting on a Seig, but I’ve never single-point thread cut, by manually turning the lathe. No problem with a back gear and variable speed - these days the VFD makes things even easier.

The only time I manually turn the lathe, when thread cutting, is (sometimes) when using a die.

Andrew, you have a PM (re your current repair, not this topic)

I called in on Andrew this morning to see his new lights ‘in the flesh’ (and for another enquiry I had from a forum member). The replies above seem to have arrived thick and fast from Andrew. I like his new lighting - both the low-level and high-level (not easily reached ones).🙂

Whilst the above explanations may be appliccable, I reckon it may simply be traced back to when these items were introduced - as organised listings of available cutting tips which could be used on the first simple range of cutter holders. Just like the index of a book, really.

’Inserts’, I suspect, was the term used immediately before the concept of ’indexing’ them was coined. Simply a descriptive word that caught on and has been totally accepted as the normal terminology in the sector. Words are introduced in many technologies - often using words that have been previosly used elsewhere. One obvios (to most) might be the word ‘router’.

Unlikely its a non-starter because of the over-heat trip - unless the faint humming noise is not coming from the motor.

Could be a trip after running if the switch is dud or there is a an overload (or short circuit within the windings).

It’s likely that the motor is toast.

Another scenario that you may not be aware of is if the motor is not actually achieving its operating speed. Usually it would slow until being once again accelerated by the start winding, only to repeat the cycle.

My recommendation would be as per Robert. I would most certainly take his second suggestion.

My understanding of ‘NVR’ is “no volts release” simply meaning that the drive will not restart, after a power interruption, without intended input from the operator. Electrocution risk is taken care of by other means and an NVR switch only safeguards against physical injury.

Not nearly enough info in that simplistic post.

New - or secondhand?

I would compare the different types to see what fitted my needs before asking for recommendations on that limited range.

Search for ‘bench-top’ machines? But, there again, one of my machines was bolted on a bench for some time, until I installed the original stand.

There are quality differences, not just size difference to take into account. Unlimited funds will purchase a (hopefully) far better better machine than a cheap budget option.

Is this going to be a ‘keeper’ or the start of a series of improvements in the foreseeable future?

Look up ‘surface grinder’. That is likely the machine you describe above.

Very smooth surfaces, but need skill to get them where you want but often they are needed where you cannot get.

Very smooth means no space for lubrication between moving surfaces, so not the end of the story.

Scraping is the accepted method of matching one surface to another. Handraulic and time consuming.

M-dro is the company you might be checking out. Plenty on the ‘net about it.

Spot on, I expect. Such high pressure fuel lines would have started as straight tubes.

I’m less than a mile from Andrew tomorrow morning, for breakfast. I would have called in on him, if I didn’t have an extra passenger. His barn lights were OK-ish when I was last there. It would be interesting to see the difference/improvement. Perhaps next time I a past….

Back in the 1970’s we had a 3kW microwave oven which was used for drying samples. Not the best, because nearly dry samples did not absorb much microwave energy! Not the only poor devision when they initially changed form chemical analysis to X-ray fluorescence. They later went back to drying over a hot-plate heater.

However one, or more, of the ‘clever’ shift workers included steel nibs in the samples (on purpose, of course). I can’t remember if they got hot enough to melt, but the ceramic dishes, silica sheets, etc, were certainly annihilated or seriously damaged.

Edited to add that with exceedingly good insulation, there is not actually much heat power needed to melt some metals.  It is cumulative!

Edited By not done it yet on 19/05/2023 20:57:45

We’ve no idea of your location, so likely unable to help - but I have a surplus of large brackets for those supports that John and Thor use.

Rather depends on which mill. I have space for a 4” Abwood on one mill, but it won’t even fit on my small mill!