Member postings for Ian Skeldon 2

Redsetter with all due respect, I know nothing about you and you know nothing about me or the item being made. The various ones available are all from home workshops. That is to say that they are made by people like me, they come with no test certificate or guarantee, they just work but they are about £100 or over.

I have made them previously (as stated) but with a different entry thread. In this case I want to make something that has already been done many times, the only reason this ones poses a problem is the forming of the correct thread, which is 1/2 bsp (as used on diving bottles).

Now I don't want to alarm you but I have previously worked with lots of different weapons and explosives, my work shop has a few machines in it capable of ripping limbs off should I use them without due caution, my welding equipment might start a workshop fire, some of my tools are sharp and pointy, so although I agree with your sentiment that care should always be exercised, maybe you should get to know what your talking about, before talking about it?

Firefox says secure ?

Hi,

and many thanks to you all for the advice offered, thanks again to Andrew for a very kind offer and confirming that the Harrison 300 will cut both (true imperial) and very close metric threads.

Redsetter, the thing I am making is a regulator tester, perfectly legal and legitimate as well as pretty common and can be bought as 'a recognised fitting for the job' if your prepared to pay silly money. I have made other devices which deal with the full cylinder pressure of 200bar (3000 psi) and had no problems (metric threads !).

A thread cut on a lathe is equally as good as one cut with a tap if it's done properly, both methods are of no use if not done properly, it is confirmed as 1/2" bsp as already mentioned. Engineers be they model engineers, rocket engineers often make the things they need or want, that does not mean that the product is inferior to a bought product which if you think about it for a second......has been made by an engineer.

Hi Les Jones, I have downloaded your chart, thanks for that, I will look through it and see if there is anything there that I can try.

Thanks, Ian

Does anyone know if something like a harrison 300 would cut both metric and imperial threads?

Hi,

Martin, I have on the lathe at the moment 70, 40, 60, and also supplied with a further 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 105 and 120 teeth gears.

Thanks,

Ian

Yep I can see a bit of a trend here, it was indeed as advertised on the website, sadly I never thought that saving the page might one day be useful.

Over the next few days I am going to cut a metric thread on a male bar and see how that fits into a female test piece, any slop at all means it's a none runner.

Hi all and thank you so much for the help.

My lathe is the one with the single gear selector knob and nine holes selecting different ( spur ?) gears.

When I bought the lathe it was advertised as being able to cut both metric and imperial threads.

Sadly it looks as though Andrew and his description of my situation may be right. The thread needs to be 14tpi as the internal chamber will be subject to around 100bar air pressure and there is not enough material on the male component to turn it down and cut a metric thread on it, even if there was I would have to start this piece all over again with a smaller internal bore, oh bugger.

I called Chester to ask for advice, in short, I wasted the cost of the phone call, they didn't have a clue. So although my lathe cuts very true it will probably have to go at some point in the near future, to make way for something more capable.

Once again my sincere thanks to eveyone that tried to help me out with this.

Thank you gents, the depth of knowledge, experience and different ways to achieve a result expressed on this forum never ceases to amaze me.

I have bored out the internal diameter to 810" (over cut it by one thou) Thanks Andrew, I meant the OD in my previous post, and checking it shows that my mic was under reading by two thou on external diameters (now calibrated, thanks to Dave Brayford for confirming this). I am impressed that you cut those threads in just a total of four passes, very impressed with the chuck/collet as well, that looks very secure.

So all ready to cut the thread and discovered that I cannot fathom out the instructions for gear selection. I have added a thread named 'Chester DB 10 thread cutting' in the hope that someone can tell me what the hell those instructions mean.

Edited By Ian Skeldon 2 on 22/07/2018 22:30:09

A couple of slightly better photos;

Hi,

I have machined an internal bore to the correct diameter and depth, cut an overrun groove at the blind face, all without drama. Then I came to the task of cutting 14 tpi.

None of the diagrams make any sense to me, certainly not what I used many years ago, I will upload a (poor quality) photo showing the lathe instructions for screw cutting to see if anyone out there can enlighten me.

Thanks,

Ian

Edited By Ian Skeldon 2 on 22/07/2018 21:39:56

Thank you Steve. I have a collar locking ring on threaded studs to hold the chuck so that should be ok. I will cut a few test runs first.

Thanks again chaps.

Hi Ian,

Material is aluminium (not sure of grade but test cuts show good machining), ID is 0.900" and thread is 14 tpi making it a 5/8 BSP thread according to my threading table?

Thanks,

Ian

Hi,

I am making a gadget that needs to have a thread cut into the internal bore which is blind. I have the internal bore cut to the required diameter and have a recess/relief cut into the blind end of the bore. Questions are as follows;

1. Can I cut traversing away from the chuck if I reverse the spndle direction and cut on the side opposite to normal?

2. Will I need to set the top/compound slide to 55 deg in the same way as if cutting an external thread?

Thanks for any advice offered.

Sorry Bob, I can't help at all as I haven't got a clue, but I am dead impressed with how many useful replies you got so quickly, best forum on tinterweb.

Hi Martyn, so you didn't have to dig out the roots?

I can drill and apply neat weed killer this weekend, but digging out the roots will take a couple of months.

I will give it a go and let you know how it works out.

Thanks, Ian

Hi

I am preping my back garden so that I might build a new, bigger and better workshop next year.

The problem I am having right now is bushes, how much of the many metres of root system do I need to dig out to ensure that they won't come back?

Is it just the main thick roots?

I have cut down a tree (lime I think) and new branches have sprouted from that in a matter of months, how do I kill the stump? and again, do I just need to get rid of the big roots to ensure success?

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

You could try these **LINK**

I would advocate that everyone aged 60 and over along with anyone who has a family member with Glaucoma, to have regular eye tests, any good optician will pick up AMD, raised IOP, Cataracts and diabetic retinal changes along with other conditions,early on. If the refraction test shows that you need a new perscription, you don't need to buy your new glasses from that optician, and the perscription is yours to take away.

As Dick has said, if you google 'Amsler Grid', you should be able to print one out, if the lines are distorted in any way, get someone else to look at it, if it all looks square to them, you need to see an optician, fairly quickly.

Edited By Ian Skeldon 2 on 11/07/2018 22:19:07

I'm afraid that all doctors are capable of having an off day just as engineers are, I know that's not a lot of help to Larry and maybe his GP could be a little more caring. The NHS spends more per head on over 60's than under 60's so care is not withdrawn or tapered off because of age. Sometimes with age comes weakness and so treatments that would have been available when the patient was younger may not be advised or offered for that reason.

AMD is on the increase because we are all living a bit longer, it's the same story for all of the age related conditions such as dementia.

Bob your well informed, the cost per injection is around the £1000 mark, but if it saves your sight, it's money well spent. AMD and other conditions such as Glaucoma is also on the increase along with diabetic retinopaty and again is largly down to living longer.