Member postings for Adam

Thanks for all the tips everyone, I'm likely to try a combination of all of these ideas.

Id love a 3d printer if I had the space. I think I'll go with Rod and also the lift out tray with ply. Thanks for all the great responses

Thanks I'll have a Google

Hi all, I have aquired a good quantity of morse taper and straight shank reamers and drills over the last few years and currently sore them in bisley drawers. But I don't like how they clank around, so I was looking for some inspiration on how best to store them.

Thanks

I love those drills, I used to have 4 of them but now down to 2. One I recently restored on my YouTube channel.

https://youtu.be/JDH5VDO_E64

I'd never sell it, it's just too good especially when compared to new foreign items.

I too would like to comment on the chip master. I got mine about 2 years ago which had been sitting in a barn for more than a few years. I spent 6 months restoring it (see photo album). I use it all the time and have retained the variator with a 3hp single phase motor. Mine has dual dials (metric and imperial), it cuts imperial and metric threads, left hand threads without having to reverse the head, a quick change tool post...... it’s brilliant. And the surface finish with the right tools and speeds is like a mirror. I also have the rare tapered spindle adapter but you can buy reproductions from home and workshop supplies.

Hi everyone, I have almost finished restoring my grandfathers power hacksaw and I've just been testing it. I think the blade is past it (no idea of its age) and wondering what would be the best blade to replace it with. It currently has a 300 x 25 x 26TPI blade.

I will mostly be cutting aluminium and stainless steel bar up to 3 inches diameter.

I'll do a restoration write up one complete.

Thanks

Adam

I used to have an m series Drummond. In the photo that is for the back gear. You should also have a little lever to activate a cam which engages the backing gears.

Thanks everyone. I started grinding back old paint and found this on the cob rod. Any ideas?

Hi everyone. I have acquired a power hacksaw from my grandfather which I shall restore. There are no manufacturers markings anywhere and I'm wondering if anyone can identify it. It's a flat belt drive so it must be very old. It turns over by hand and I look forward to using it.

Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone has used a single DRO module for 2 machines? I'm strapped for space and want a DRO on my Colchester chiomaster and my Chester 626.

Looking at the pictures the DRO uses a serial connector. You can buy serial switch boxes so wondering if anyone had ever done it?

Thanks for the responses everyone. I like the idea of the floor standing but using a cutout in the bench. I'll take a photo later off my workshop to give a better idea of what I'm working with.

Hi everyone, I have 3 kerry super 8 drills (3 because I plan on restoring them) and only intend to keep one. I have one bench, one floor and one sort or in-between height one which is a solid pillar.

I'm building a little workshop and only have room for one but cannot decide if to go for floor or bench. Obviously I can fit taller items on the floor one, but what other pros and cons are there for bench and floor types?

Thanks

Thanks Lathejack, it sounds like that's the issue. I just finished bedding the bearings in as the manual states and the oil has stopped but then it's been running in the lowest speed and not even warm after 40 minutes where as actual milling made it warm yesterday. I like the felt seal idea.

Regards

Adam

Thanks for the responses. Looking at the manual it does talk about bedding in and running it for 20 minutes clockwise then 20 minutes anti at low speed then 5 minutes high speed. I'll do that and see what happens.

Cheers

It's only a few years old and had next to no use if any. The table still had the wax paper, hopefully it just needs a seal or something simple like that. But looking at the spares list there is no such part

Hi all, I've been a busy bee playing with my new mill, really please with it. I downloaded the manual but it is not very thorough on lubrication Particularly interested in the quill and bearings. When the machine is running thick brown grease is sprayed out from the botoom of the quill. Is this normal and if not should there be an oil seal? How do others lubricate?

Tha ks Phil, I appreciate that. I'm not too fussed about the mt3 drills as I don't recall needing them on a drill, only for boring on the lathe. I do use mt2 drills a lot but I can simply machine the tang off the mt3-mt2 adaptor. I just did another job on the mill, custom engine mounts and it's so nice to work with.