Member postings for Simon Williams 3

Mine came with a MT2 socket with a 1 inch parallel OD, I've never used it, though that's what gave me.the idea of buying a ER collet with a parallel back. As for the nose thread, I wonder if this was to use the old style Myford collets which slid up the spindle bore and used a front closer nut to push the collet up the morse taper.

Rgd Simon

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 02/02/2017 17:03:29

Its a clone of a thing called a Deckel S0, if I understood the story correctly Mr Alexander used to work for Deckel and bought the designs when Deckel packed in making this model. Its actually an engraving tool sharpener/ grinder, but makes a good end mill grinder etc. The history is on the web. Anyway the collets are USUALLY ( but not guaranteed) type U2 collets avaialble from Vertex via Rotagrip or Chronos. I found the Deckel one in a junk shop in Buxton, but without the collets so you did well. User manual etc all on the net, but you need to used Deckel soemtimes and Alexander othertimes just to search for what is there.

Either model is well made, solid and useful, and they seem to make good prices on Ebay. One sold recently, if you search completed listings you'll find it.  Very definitely worth restoring this one, even if you sell it on for someone else to play with. Anyone looking to buy this won't be fazed by the odd motor mounting, it juat adds to ots character

Hth Simon

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 02/02/2017 15:40:01

John -

(Apologies if it's a double post)

I sent you a pm.

Thx Simon

Hello Thomas,

There IS room for an ER32 collet holder, because I've tried it. I had to grind a shoulder on the rear of the threaded portion of the holder (behind the nut) as this diameter fouled the detent knob which projects forward of the face of the Quorn toolholder.

This is the knob of the spring loaded peg, which acts as the detent for a dividing wheel located on the rear of the toolholder. It's located in the toolholder casting just below the one inch bore where the collets were designed to fit.

But it was no problem to do this, I just put a handle on the back of the ER 32 holder - on the one inch portion sticking out of the toolholder and held it up to the grinding wheel until I'd let out enough sparks to make the ER32 holder fit snugly against the tool holder where it belongs.

I don't know of any real advantage of the ER32 size over the smaller one, as either will take a 16 mm endmill to sharpen it. But the Quorn that I bought did not have the tool holder collets included, so I thought buying something to use the ER collets was an easy answer.

I also changed the original 0 - 360 calibrated dial for one which was calibrated 4 times +/-45 deg, as I only use it to sharpen end mill and slot drills with either 4 or 2 flutes.  I don't bother with the detent idea for this, it's quicker to index the cutter being sharpened on my 45 deg scale.  Oh, and I've abandoned the pretty but ineffective threaded collet thing that clamps onto the outside of the one inch tool holder, in favour of a simple split clamp with a tangential cap screw.

HTH, if you would like to see pictures I can do that but it's cold and dark out there just now!

Best rgds Simon

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 01/02/2017 22:41:51

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 01/02/2017 22:48:42

Good Afternoon All

I'm looking to buy a Jacobs collet chuck i.e one of these:

I looks as though I'm going to import one from the USA. I've got family over there so that's doable, but I would very much like to understand the model numbers.

They seem to carry the model no 91-XY, and "XY" appears to identify the mounting arrangement. So the one I'm looking for to suit a D1-3 camlock seems to be a model 91-C3 (C for camlock, 3 for size). So far so good.

I found a user manual on the net, but it doesn't seem to show how to decode the model suffix, and whether I've reverse engineered this correctly. But it does seem to show that an A suffix chuck (flange mounted) can be bolted to a backplate - which then could carry a D1-3 camlock. Or am I making this over-complicated? An L suffix chuck seems to be suitable for the L type Amercan keyed taper, but the mounting seems to be an integral part of the chuck and wouldn't be sensible to adapt.

There is also this one just come up for sale on ebay part no 91-66. What's one of those? Is this maybe a typo for a 91-C6 which would - I think - be a D1-6 Camlock mounted unit?

Has anyone got experience of the innards of these and a digest of the model numbering system?

Looking forward to your help and advice, thanks in anticipation, best regards Simon

IMHO -

There's "true" as in not wobbling side to side, and there's "true" as in not running eccentrically. You want the cutter to run as "true" in both senses as possible. So the ends of the spacers need to be square to the bore, and the bore of the cutter needs to fit with minimum clearance on the arbor. Interference fit isn't a good idea, it's difficult to get the cutters on and off the arbor, so some clearance radially is inevitable, but it needs to be a small amount (sub one thou).

If not you'll get some combination of a cut that's not where it should be, and being made by only a few teeth on one side of the cutter.

HTH Simon

I was working in a factory in Redditch some while ago, watching a bloke welding on a bit of RSJ held in the vice of the donkey saw. As I watched, sparks started coming from the conduit connecting the donkey saw to its supply. A bit of thought identified that the earth clamp from the welder ground to the RSJ was iffy, and the welding current was passing back to earth via the donkey saw. The same would apply if you earthed the work bench - the earth path has to be able to carry the fault current and return it to the source - in this case the welder..

After a bit of to-ing and fro-ing, we decided that the least worst option was to disconnect the link inside the welder between the ground connection and the supply earth, and thus the welding output was floating with respect to the building earth.. That way if the welder ground connection was high resistance you wouldn't be able to strike the arc. Of course that means that you could have a workbench at the "live" potential (say 80 volts) but at least you haven't set fire to the building.

Is there a smiley for a hand grenade with the pin out?

Simon

Goldilocks has been eating my cornflakes again...

Can I buy the box already re-cycled?

Simon

I bought an INT30 Clarkson Autolock chuck - the bigger one which takes 1 inch shank threaded end mills - and a collet to match at the last Midlands show. Looking at it when I got home, I thought I've got some accurately sized 1 inch BDMS, it wouldn't be beyond the wit of man to take a length of this, thread the one end to match the Autolock collet, and the other end to take a draw nut. Slice a keyway up the side, and now assemble the bits with some spacers to make a horizontal arbour with a ready made ISO30 taper on the end.

I guess if you used a bit of 1.25 inch BDMS as the starting point for the arbour you could do the same thing. The fun would be in keeping the reduced portion which engages with the collet concentric.

Best rgds Simon

Chris Evans has beaten me to it.

I know them as "tinman's edge snaps", used to make a rolled - and usually wired - edge on a tin sheet to stiffen it and make it safe to handle. Think old fashioned cake tins, bait boxes etc.

First knock up a right angle along the edge of the sheet.. The secret is to know how much to knock over. Now lay in a piece of wire. and knock the edge back over the wire to trap it. Now use the snap to form the rolled over edge and neaten it.

I never made hinges, though I can see that if you withdraw the wire from the bead you've got the makings of a hinge.

HTH Simon

Well, thanks one and all for the pretty exhaustive analysis of what's going on here, and in particular for the link to the thread on the same subject going back to 2014 - thank you MichaelG.

I knew there was a difference between the old "proper hammer finish" Hammerite paint and the paint they branded as Smoothrite which was always a bit watery. I didn't know about the Volatile Organic Carbons Directive (see previous thread as per MichaelG's post).

I'm thinking that the answer is to give up on Hammerite, the suggestion of using any of the "Tractor enamels" is a good one, I've always had good results with those. Thinner for tracor enamels is Xylene based if I have understood it right, so it's only moderately nasty! Carcinogenic amongst other things.

To start another hare running, I'm unsure about spraying POR15. It's certainly good stuff, and I've used it by brush, but I thought it was cyano-acrylate based and you really can make yourself ill with that! The safety Data Sheet I've just found via MSC would frighten the bejasus out of you, but then the same is true for any of these.

Rgds as ever Simon

'evening all!

Been painting some bits today, and just didn't quite have enough paint in the tin. So I rummaged in the stores, and found an old tin about half full.

Went to dilute it to thin it enough to go through a spray gun, using Hammerite's own brand cleaning fluid/thinner, which pickled the paint causing it to clot in the gun. Looked like french dressing oil and water! On cleaning the gun I've had to use acetone to wash out the nozzle, as the cleaner just wouldn't touch it.

Is this old paint, nearly gone off/past its sell by date, or have Hammerite changed the recipe? Both paint tins look identical, labelled "Hammerite Direct to Rust Metal Paint Smooth". The thinner is "Hammerite Brush Cleaner and Thinners".

The thinner worked just fine with the tin of paint I bought just before Christmas, but the old stuff might well have been on the shelf for ten years.

Any clues?

Thanks in anticipation as always Simon

The back gear is underneath the main spindle, and if it hasn't been used in living memory there will be a certain amount of crud accumulated on it, just 'cos it's the bit underneath.

If the bull wheel chuck and spindle turn freely separate from the pulley (with the half moon key disengaged), and the pulley itself swizzles round freely on the spindle, then the input and output to the back gear are OK, but is the back gear seized on its shaft?

Suggest you disengage the half moon key, and see if you can turn the backgear shaft underneath the spindle without operating the back gear lever to mesh it with the bull wheel..

If so then the back gear isn't seized, so I guess you're looking for a lump of something lodged in the teeth of the gears just jamming up the mechanism.

I suppose the back gear, which is mounted on an eccentric so the knob/lever behind the chuck lifts it into engagement with the driver gear (pulley driven) and the bull wheel attached to the chuck, is actually moving the right distance?

HTH Simon

edit - Nigel beat me to it....edit

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 12/01/2017 20:10:47

What Schrodinger failed to take into account is that cats can walk through walls. Cat owners (now there's an oxy-moron) have known this since pre-history, and Douglas Adams documented it.

Simon

Lucas. Made in the Black Country, that's why!

Hi Ian, I've got a poorly one of these in a bucket of bits, and yes you do need to remove the star wheel hub. On mine there is a 5/16 dia (approx.) taper pin right through the hub, but the stub of the small end was sticking out so I just knocked it out with a hammer and punch.

You can't see the through hole in this piccy, but it is a through hole, promise! What you can see is that the end of the shaft with the thread (of a sort ) in it which carries the return spring ia bout 5/8 diam, the end where the star wheel sits is about 3/4 diam, and is supported in a bronze bush behind the star wheel hub. The pinion is larger than the ID of the bronze bush, so it has to pass out of the hole the other side where the ratchet wheel of the return spring adjustment sits. Thus you've got to get the star wheel off the pinion shaft first.

There must be the far end of the taper pin buried in the paint - has it been filed back flush and filled/painted over. Got to be something there you can hit wiv an 'ammer.

Once you've got the pin out, the star wheel boss is a good fit on its shaft and will need persuasion to get it off. But off it's gotta come. I toyed with drilling and tapping a bolt hole in the centre of the hub so I could screw a "pusher" in, but managed to weasel it of with pry bars at the edge.

Unfortunately mine has got bigger problems - I bought it off a friend of a friend who was selling up for retirement, but on cleaning it down I found that the outer cast iron casing of the quill is cracked. Bother!

If I hadn't paid so much for it it would have gone for scrap the same day. As it is I'm waiting for a week's snow so I've got nothing better to do than remake it!

As if that's not bad enough here's the state of the spline -

Somebody had a good old scrunch up that day!

Oh, and of course the gears are on their last knockings - but I expected that and allowed for that problem when I bought it.

HTH, if you need any more pictures it's all in bits and you're welcome.

Simon

To return to the OP's question, "how do I find out if the leadscrew is metric or imperial" the answer is "it's whichever comes out to a whole number answer"

Doing the arithmetic:

46 threads in 6 inches is a pitch of 46/6 pitches per inch, which comes out to 7.67 ppi (for which we do have insurance).

Try a bit of metrication. 6 inches is 152.4 mm, so the pitch is now 152.4/46 = 3.31mm per thread

Something wrong here, as neither come out to a "convenient" answer.

Go back to imperial, and measure 47 pitches in 5.9 inches would be darn close to 8TPI.

Playing with the metric numbers, you have to go quite a long way from the original measurement/thread count to get a believable answer, even allowing for the possibility of a half mm pitch number.

It seems from the flavour of the above that we're all expecting the answer to be an imperial lead screw of 8TPI. Of course you can indeed cut either inch or metric threads from any lead screw, given an appropriate selection of change wheels. But that doesn't seem to be a real possibility from the OP.

So to identify a definitive answer to the original question I guess we need a re-measure. If the OP would like to revisit the figures given, checking that he measures the distance from a point on one thread to the exactly similar point on a later one, and counts the number of threads excluding the "zeroth" (yes it is a word) one, then we can help some more.

Seasons wotsits to all

Simon

Of course, if it is 8TPI and you hold a steel rule against the lead screw, the "teeth" of the thread will line up neatly against the 1/8 inch divisions on the ruler, just as they would against an 8 TPI thread gauge.

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 28/12/2016 20:28:52

+1 from me for brass two piece construction - make the small gear on a stub, make the bigger as a plate wheel and soft solder it onto the stub of the smaller. If using ABS I'd do the same, but solvent weld the two bits together.

Brass is my favourite though. If the OP is right and ebay is rotten with poorly projectors all of the same fault, why here's a little money spinner for someone!

Rgds Simon

If it's scrunched once, will replacing it with a printed gear give a better life expectancy?

Info from the OP as to why it failed would help us devise a reliable fix please.

Simon

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 14/12/2016 23:45:09

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 14/12/2016 23:45:35

Depends on the size of the piece, but I'd imagined it made as two separate components joined together. The bigger problem is that 67 is a.prime number

Simon

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 14/12/2016 22:09:43