Member postings for Martin Newbold

Jason thats a 1.9" dia cutter the vid you posted was using whole bit . As I said on my m8s rigid dinosur mill which is so solid it ways several tons I only use a 1/2 fluted mill tool on this using half the cutter. It doesnt need a dro as it doesnt flex. The video also showed no use of cutting fluid or oil or coolant / lubricant. If your DRO is not reading zero then your head is flexing and if its alternating then you are not cutting evenly . Some metals have had spots in them . This is worse in alloys .

Just saying as I dont use inserts as they overheat without coolent and then distemper or blunt which happens for me. I have just installed coolent on lathe and am not sure i would still use inserts.

M

Cricky how much are you tring to cut. i would try half that and a smaller mill bit . I dont think your machine is big enough to support what you are doing. That looks like an inch bit and you are trying to cut complete inch in one pass.?

When I have been milling I use less than a 1/2 fluted mill on a big very heavy old friends machine that doesnt move when you cut . This smaller mills are not so solid,

M

if its rocking. Is it rocking on the face you have cut beacuse steps of differant hieght in the cut face. Sometimes the mill may not be inserted and secured properly and may be dropping lock the vertical hieght on each pass if you have the option. check your fixing of the part your milling. Its easy to get swarf under it and or bolting is not holding t down flush with the mill bed. Have only used flueted mills not inserts and generlly if its a large area a bigger mill will git better than small one as it will not require so many steps. Finally how much are you cutting on each pass .

M.

+1 for cobalt drills, espp Dormer plus keep the drill speed low and lubricate the tip.

Drill smaller hole and build up hole size in steps to a larger final size

M

Perhaps a slighly differant thought on this subject if you are as it seems worried about pulling out a thread.

Perhaps another question is how are you lifting it and what are you attaching chains too as if its a roof then I think you should be considering this is not good practice. Most heavy machinery is still walked by leavers into position. I am not sure why you want to lift it and just through ths into debate as if its heavy enought to break out the thread then why do this?

All the best

M

Edited By Martin Newbold on 13/05/2018 21:55:58

if you have modern workshop or house consumer unit with an RCD then plug it in hands free. It will either trip the RCD or run up .

Warming it up may induce condensation in it it which might short out windings be careful if you are running warm air through it as this can do same .

Basically with a modern fuse box with an inbuilt RCD an earth leak with throw the RCD trip and stop you getting electrocuted. . Obviously if you are at all worried or dont have an RCD consumer unit or a separtate one get someone who is an electriction to do it or get one that you are more sure of.

You havent said what its going onto and what power it is as it might be unsuitable and more worthy of the dumpster .

M

Edited By Martin Newbold on 13/05/2018 21:45:40

i wanted a 100x 1" x 10 tpi backplate for my spindle on my Drummond too. I havent found one yet, I found a 5" one and am looking for a front bolt bernard at present.

M

Brilliant Dave , Thank you for sharing as its been a devil to get one on mine for my 100mm drive dont just assume your spindle size as unless it fits perfectly it will not work and break the threads in back plate . Yes i did this

You can make an adapter out of sheet steel. If its the coil you are replacing then just line it up close the old one the most important thing is to make sure its as close to the flyweel as you can get without rubbing the flywheel. Usually the flywheel will have a electric or magnetic switch under the flywheel which will fire the coil through a capacitor to engerise the spark through the coil. Even modern systems have to have this switch capacitor and coil arangement even with cdi.

While you have it apart look at the ppipe work routing from the fuel tank to the carburettor these are usually not very refined and could do with a spring through them.

M

Haha Andrew its nice to be lucky once lol it doesnt occur very often . This is a great find am not going to cut it down but find a bigger chuck to fit it as its 5" and my bigest is 4.5"

Lol , Howard this is just a hobby

I was lucky enough to buy a 1" 10tpi 5" backplate and its a sweet fit like my other badly interfaced chuck which is 4.5" So am now looking for a sweet 5" bernard or pratt chuck that bolts right through. I did buy one but hermes messed up delivery and never got it as the seller got cross as hermes made no attempt to deliver at all . I must add of late Hermes have gotten better..

MY pum p is working well and can spray cutting fluid everywhere and redecorate my tools luckily i understand it has an anti rust agent in it Its not only white at christmas lol

Martin

Edited By Martin Newbold on 12/05/2018 11:38:05

If the gauge is correct Jason then It cannot be a Drummond B, lol. It was much modified before i got it . If ML7 is 8TPI it would explain a lot why this failed.

All the best

M

Edited By Martin Newbold on 03/05/2018 20:47:16

Well i just tried measuring my other plate and it would concur that its 1" x 10TPI

Hi everyone By the way i do have another 80mm back plate marked up v1012 but cant find out who made this or what threads are in it i measured the thread part which is 1/2" and 5 threads there in with the blank unthreaded section 1" dia  would this infer it is 1" x TPI 10?

M

Edited By Martin Newbold on 03/05/2018 20:37:51

Tim,

I think your right . I bought the back plate not with the chuck am still learning about this threads as they are very hard to know the difference by eye and all look similar.

I found a tale piece for drummond b and its listed as 1" x 8tpi.

All the best

M

Hihi Hopper

Over powered no way . It just sufficient . Have an inverter fitted so am running at approx half power . Am very pleased with the drive the new gearbox i built is excellent and do not think this is causing any problem.

The back plate was not fitting as well as i hoped but did some work in brass before without failure. It has been somewhat modified yes but stock spindle is same as original i think . I was not taking to much off to allow the tool to dig . My belt would slip before any damage was incurred through a tool dig even though there was not one.

I am going to get a 1" 8TPI backplate and try that from RDG if they come back with some information

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 02/05/2018 09:59:16:

OMG dont but one I bought one from Myford it was dreadful didnt fit properly at all was as bad as the ML7 backplate fitting it could be it was wrong TPI . Myford said they had lots of probs its possible its not as listed but clue less here and refunded great company.

Hi everyone . Thank you for the comments

I think the ML7 must be 1" x10tpi . Am pretty sure that mine must be 1" x 8TPI. I might buy a RDB one to see if it fits better which is 1 " x 8TPI. I am hoping they are all not rubbish cast iron I have to confess the one i bought it didn't screw right on as far as my original chuck I am guessing the thread differences was the problem Live and learn ML7 is not Drummond

Am sure this might sort it out. Have been busy with other bits with my chinese pump and cutting liquid conversion so haven't had time to get one yet have been in correspondence on eBay RDG to check the cast iron is not cheap rustable version with steel in it. but will wait till i find out.

All the Best

What is this please?

I dont think its a B as thought mine was a B it looks later as you have the myford 4 sort of bar mech it looks a bit earlier than Myford 4 as you still have the carriage control at end like mine but a rocker undermeath with the screw to the side mine goes through the centre of the lathe it might be an 'M'