Member postings for John Reese

Check the size of insert used and confirm it is capable of the 2mm pitch.

Check the recommended tightening torque for your collet. As I recall the ER16 should be tightened to around 100 ft. lb. Also consider a ball bearing collet nut. It gets a lot more hold on the tool shank than the plain nut. I know I seldom get the proper torque on my ER32s. It would involve using cheater pipes on the spanners.

It may not be the pocket that is bad. M tolerance inserts have a .002 to .005 inch variation. Check the inserts as well as the pocket.

After I bought my first hammer drill I gathered up all the star drills in my possession and binned them. I do have an adapter for an air chisel to take the A taper bits. I haven' gotten around to pitching it. It is free to anyone who will pay the postage.

I made long Vs by first milling a slot at the centerline deep enough to go past the apex of the V. I milled the V using an M A Ford 6 flute 90* countersink, carbide tipped. It gave a far better finish than an end mill ground to a 90* point. The big advantage is eliminating the need to tilt the work or the head of the mill. Just set it in the vise, using a work stop if making multiple parts.

Stefan Gotteswinter had a series of videos using a wiper motor for the X drive.

Myfordboy made videos with a stepper for the X drive. Both are on YouTube

The most vesatile bar for internal boring or threading is a plain steel bar with square broached holes at the ends. One is at right angles to the axis of the bar. The second is at 30* or 45* to the axis. HSS bits are used and are ground to the profile needed. Use the largest bar that will fit.

I have a Dremel in addition to pneumatic and electric die grinders with 1/4" collets. I would never consider a Dremel or similar tool for that much metal remover. Now that I have a compressor capable of driving the air tool it would my first choice. The electric die grinders are suitable to the job but are heavier and less comfortable to use.

To answer the original question: A grooving tool us not suitable for cutting square threads because there is insufficient clearance on the leading edge of the tool. The clearance on the leading edge must exceed the helix angle of the thread.

Caving in to the wife?

I have a hoist similar to David's. Mine was intended to attach to the hitch receiver on my pickup. I plan to make a short pipe pedestal that mounts to the floor and just drop the upper part of the hoist into the pedestal. It will be placed near the corner of my 16" lathe headstock and will be used primarily for handling chucks (8" dia).

In that application I think a Woodruff cutter would work quite well. If a T-slot cutter is available in a 6mm width it would also work quite well. The process I am visualizing is this: cut the 20mm slot to 8.5mm depth first, then do the undercuts one at a time using either the woodruff cutter or an appropriate T-slot cutter.

Alcohol based disinfectant is effective against bacteria. It is not very effective on virus (what the hell is the plural of virus) because of insuffient concentration and time of contact. I agree that hand washing is he most effective.

On my last cruise there were hand washing stations at all the entrances to the buffet. They had a minor outbreak of norovirus during the cruise. Hand washing was mandatory for entering the buffet in addition there was hand sanitizer. The crew was doing extra scrubbing, cleaning, and disinfecting in all the food service areas. Passengers were no longer permitted to self serve from the buffet. Crew members prepared the plates and handed them across the counter. That was done to prevent passenger to passenger transmission of the virus via the buffet line.

The hole would be bell mouthed.

You could probably roll it around a mandrel like winding a spring. I think a simple roller on the toolpost would work to form the dtrip to the mandrel.

Things to consider"

Are you roiling it the easy way ao the hard way? If the hard way the material may try to twist.

Allow for spring back. The mandrel will have to be undersized.

You will be rolling a helix. Can you fet it flat enough afterwards?

Does your lathe have the balls to pull it off?

Triple chip saw blades are great for Ali. Actually almost any wood cutting blade works.

If you areusing an abrasive disc on aluminum select silicon carbide abrasive, commonly used in concrete. The AO discs have strong grains that don't fracture and break away hence the load up and quit cutting Ali. SiC blades have very sharp grains that are brittle and break down in use. That keeps fresh abrasive exposed.

I have an Evolution Rage3 that is intended for metal cutting. The primary fratures of the blade are negative rake and a depth of cut limiter ahead of each tooth. I wanted to put a fine tooth wood cutting blade on the saw. The blade was a 5/8 bore and the saw has a 1" arbor. I set the wood cutting blade on 1-2-3 blocks and clamped it down. I indicated on the center hole and started boring until I got to 1".

Definitely air over oil. Throttle the oil going into the cylinder.

Does this help?

Timesaver comound