Member postings for Farmboy

But if we all move there, surely the World will tilt on its axis and Australia will end up at the south pole

To answer my own earlier question I looked up the energy equivalent of petroleum (crude oil) which the International Energy Agency defines as 11.63 MWh/tonne.

1 million tonnes of oil per week (total used for all transport) = 5,952 tonnes/hour = about 69 GWh.

Current UK demand on the National Grid seems to average around 35GW, so switching all transport from petroleum fuels to electric traction would seem to require an increase of almost 200% in generation capacity, although potential efficiency savings might reduce this figure. However, roughly half current generation appears to be from fossil fuels so we will need to increase generation by at least 400% from 'other sources' if we are to stop using petroleum fuels altogether.

I can't begin to imagine the changes my grandchildren will see, but our current systems will certainly need upgrading pretty soon if they are to have any hope of a decent life, even if my figures are inaccurate . . . which will no doubt be pointed out shortly

Mike.

However you juggle the figures around, the UK apparently uses about 1 million tonnes of petroleum per week for all transport. plus almost another half million for other uses (according to Gov't figures)

Someone will no doubt be able to work out the electrical equivalent, but that sounds like a lot of gigawatts to me

Think I might start breeding horses

I think I would make a jig similar to what you suggest, but to fit on the lathe topslide and hold the 3/16" pieces horizontally at centre height at the 45 degree angle, then put a 1/4" milling cutter in a collet in the headstock to cut the concave. I'd be worried, like you, about the drill wandering in your proposed setup.

Mike.

I'd definitely watch that. I could even be that 'expert'

If you are not averse to buying one rather than making, it might be worth looking at this site:

**LINK**

I don't get on with normal ladders these day but I found these very stable and infinitely adjustable for uneven ground as well. I have the 'Junior' size which should reach the gutters on a bungalow. They aren't lightweight but they do fold flat easily for storage.

Someone better qualified than me will no doubt advise on your actual question

Mike.

I seem to remember they 3D printed a spanner on the space station a while ago. Not sure if it was for a special job or just an experiment.

I bet those fancy gloves make working with fiddly things interesting, but at least if you drop something it just floats around. Not so good when you're working outside though.

A piezo siren inside the shed might be quite devastating, but I'm sure I'd be the one to trigger it in a forgetful moment

My grandad apparently often caught the trip wire and set off the 12-bore cartridge alarm he'd set up in the farmyard, when he went outside after dark to check the livestock

Lack of illumination has never been a deterrent to the b@$***s round here but the neighbour with the snarling rottweiller on a long chain never seems to have intruders

Mike.

Yes, that's been my experience too. And unless you have high-res cameras and floodlights so you get a decent colour image at night they are little use for identifying the intruders.

The last time we had night-time intruders in the yard the CCTV recorded their entry but the IR pictures were no use for ID purposes and they then ripped the camera off the wall before removing several vehicle batteries.

Still intrigued by this

Although I have no experience in that area I can see the argument for a supply drop 'chute, for the round one at least, but I wonder why the added complication of a lubricated swivel bearing. Surely it wouldn't be necessary in that case?

The shape of the square one is puzzling in that it looks as if the shaped corners might be designed to fit onto a four-legged frame of some sort, and the rims of the holes appear to be thickened, perhaps to avoid chafing a cord or cable passing through them.

Even more annoying is the nagging feeling in the back of my mind that I've seen something like the round one before . . . somewhere

Mike.

If they're lubricated they must be intended to rotate freely.

If mounted on a post the grease nipple would be inaccessible.

The quick release shackle looks as if it is meant to fit on quite a thin ( 5mm? ) horizontal rod or cable which suggests it wouldn't support anything too heavy.

Some sort of light rigging or antenna seems a good bet.

Oh, hold on . . . Google thinks they may be earrings!

A few points:

1. The tang is not there to stop the arbour turning, the morse taper does that.

2. The Morse Taper and the JT2 only hold under pressure, e.g. when drilling. If you twist and pull it will come out unless it has been forced tight by use . . . or a big hammer ( which is NOT recommended )

3. On the tailstock the Morse taper is released when the spindle is fully withdrawn, and the arbour may drop out.

Hope that is some help.

Mike.

If you sup your ale from a pewter tankard, apparently you should drink it quickly so it's not in contact with the metal for too long

Basic principle of the Internet: If you repeat something often enough it eventually becomes true

My original comment was really a sarcastic poke at journalists who come up with amazing "new" ideas that most of us have known about for centuries . . . but it has prompted some interesting discussions about a subject close to my heart, as a lover of the countryside and wildlife.

Mike.

Edited By Farmboy on 13/11/2018 23:30:52

It wasn't just that the leadscrew was L/H threaded, I could have lived with that since the lathe has a forward/reverse gearbox, but . . . the half-nut was R/H thread . . . didn't make for very good engagement when power-feeding!

I came to the conclusion that the step-pulley driven C4B that I have used R/H and the electronic control SC4 version used L/H threads, and somebody must have picked the wrong one. Axminster took a bit of convincing at first, but after a chat on the phone they were very helpful, and replaced the leadscrew and half-nut, and provided a hefty discount on my next order as compensation for my trouble. Another firm with excellent customer service.

I was actually surprised by how good the C4 was for the price. Now I just need to find more time to 'play'

Mike.

I'm probably the least 'expert' here, but I bought a SIEG C4 from Axminster a few years ago, which is the non-electronic version of the SC4. However it is still the same basic machine, and I have found it very robust. Mine needed a good clean down to remove the packing grease, but everything worked fine from the start with no 'fettling'. A few test cuts proved it was accurate in turning parallel and facing, within the limits of my DTI and micrometer.

It is quite a heavy lump and definitely not a one-man lift . . . well, maybe when I was a lot younger

Mine did have an unusual problem in that the wrong leadscrew had been fitted: L/H thread instead of R/H. This caused a few headscratchings until the light dawned, and it was replaced under warranty. They did offer to replace the lathe but as I had got it all cleaned and set up I opted for the parts only, plus a hefty discount on my next purchase!

With ARC's reputation for customer service I would have no qualms about buying an SC4, if I was in the market for another one. Sadly, I've had too little free time to make the most of this one so far in my "retirement"

Mike.

A scientist on TV some years ago suggested that nature's answer to global warming would most likely be a 100,000 year ice age

Mike (another one)

I have successfully planed a keyway in an aluminium pulley with a home made bit in a standard boring bar mounted in the toolpost.

I also have fond memories of watching my late father cut a perfect 1/4" keyway in a steel shaft with a cold chisel.

Now, this is probably a silly question but, in my ignorance, I am wondering if/why a key really needs to be square. Taking an earlier suggestion about mounting the pulley on a mandrel ( or perhaps its own shaft ) and drilling on the join line before filing square, what would be wrong with just fitting a cylindrical key? Obviously it would only work on the end of a shaft. The crucial area would seem to be the interface between pulley and shaft, where the shear effect on the key would be concentrated. Is the shape of the body of the key important?

Mike.

Totally off-topic, tenuous link : Someone in our local planning department must have a sense of humour. When they built the new police station in town someone specified copper sheeting for the roof . . . I'll get me coat . . .