Member postings for Hevanscc

The thread is at this link and you can see the photos in my albumn

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=112156

Good luck

Hywel

Hi Rik

I started watching the Lars tutorials but found that they assumed too much prior knowledge. After much searching I eventually found the Youtube channel of Paul McWhorter who has 13 tutorials on 'Learn Fusion 360 or Die Trying'. They start right with the basics and I was able to produce 3D drawings for 3D printing with ease afterwards.

Hywel

I would use a round hand file for tubes that small and thin, if it just a right angle joint. It is much easier and quicker then setting up tube notchers and jigs etc. I do it all the time for bicycle brake bridges and racks.

Hywel

Still have one of these in the cutlery drawer for when all else fails . . .

Hi Andy

I've done it on my Viceroy (different model). Thread is here

Hywel

Hi Peter

I have also made the Hemmingway version. Martin described the cutting tool but if using a boring bar it is quite springy so only very light cuts in harder material is possible. Haven't tried parting off with it as I can't see that it would be easily achieved.

Hywel

You should push the tang into the handle and then, holding the wooden handle with the file facing down, strike the end of handle with a mallet. Somewhat counter-intuitively, this will force the tang into the handle rather than knock it out. You can look up the physics if you don't believe me.

Hywel

You should push the tang into the handle and then, holding the wooden handle with the file facing down, strike the end of handle with a mallet. Somewhat counter-intuitively, this will force the tang into the handle rather than knock it out. You can look up the physics if you don't believe me.

Hywel

Porthcawl - know it well. Worked in a chip-shop on Trecco Bay for several summer vacations when I was a student during the 1980s. Being originally from the Rhondda valley, Porthcawl was an exotic coastal location . . .

Hywel

I did a refurb om my Tom Senior M1 (though without the S-type head), converted the 3 phase motor from Star to Delta and added an inverter. The thread is at this link

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=112156

Hywel

I recently quench hardened some gear cutters and used the muffle furnace at work to heat them, so the temperature was well controlled.

I would say that the boiled carrots in subdued light colour is a good comparison - a nice soft orangey glow. It was certainly nothing like any cherries that I have ever seen!

Hywel

I thought about that, but after a bit of mental three dimensional gymnastics I decided that the geometry of the cutting edge of the boring bar, as presented to the revolving work, is the same as a regular knife tool used in the normal way. In other words I used it as it is and it worked OK . . .

Hywel

Nice. I didn't go as far as you and make the boring head too, very impressed.

Hywel

Thanks Dave. The main incentive being the quote I got to buy the missing changewheels, necessity being the mother of invention etc . . .

Finally completed my ball turning attachment to make use of my under utilised boring head. This was the culmination of a two month process which required me to make:
1. Gear cutters to make the ...
2. Missing changewheels for the lathe to ...
3. Screwcut the M14 thread on the shaft to screw into the boring head and...
3. To finish the shaft to fit the bearings in the toolpost block which was ...
4. My first attempt at cutting a dovetail on the mill ...
5. And the first ball is the one on the handle

I learned a lot doing it and very pleased with the result.

Hywel

Edited By Hevanscc on 29/11/2017 21:57:22

Edited By Hevanscc on 29/11/2017 21:58:15

I use oxy-propane all the time, using hobbyweld oxygen but mostly with a medical oxygen concentrator. The concentrator is man enough for most things - bicycle frame brazing in my case - an dyou can sometimes find one cheap on ebay or glass bead making people use them a lot. When you get one it means free oxygen for life!

The one drawback with oxy-propne is that the flame, while just as hot as oxyacetylene, is more diffuse so you need to use a large nozzle for the same effect.

Hywel

Yes, you describe it correctly - Keyhole surgery where no spanner or socket seems to reach, while also trying to catch site of a DTI reading . . .

You seem familiar with the Viceroy setup Clive. On mine there are threaded bolts on the bottom of the bed that extend down through the cabinet through the adjustment nuts. The adjustment nuts seem to screw into the underside of the cabinet and presumably extend through itmto lift the bed - I didn't look that closely when I assembled it and was guessing at the time. Then there are smaller nuts which go,on the ends of the threaded bolts and tighten down (or up,in this case) on the adjustment nuts - are these the top nuts you mean when you say to 'nip them up'?

Hywel

Edited By Hevanscc on 23/11/2017 19:40:51

So, into the shed aft work to make the measurements:

Barrel retracted: clamped 0, unclamped 0 mm

Barrel half way: clamped 0.025, unclamped 0.025 mm

Barrel fully out: clamped 0.075, unclamped 0.075 mm

In use, I have only extended the barrel the shortest distance, 1/4 max.

Hywel