Member postings for mark smith 20

Just a thought but Axminster havent cut a right hand thread by mistake??? I would have expected it to go on at least one or two turns at least.

I used to have a BZL and it had a 1 3/8" x 6 unc thread but that was the larger spindle nose thread.

I have problems with getting stuff to fit my south bend lathe as despite bxoford being similar the thread form is different and boxford made stuff will only go on a few threads then jam. BSW as opposed to UN.

Thanks Chris , there is an Interstate website but it only really says milling cutters and lathe cutters as products , MSC sell dozens of different products branded Interstate so its confusing i suspect alot of it is imported from China but some higher end stuff is made in the US. Just guessing.

Reason i asked was that MSC has one 18 pc set of er32 collets on clearance for £49 +VAT , usually sold for almost £300.

So they are highly over priced or good quality on considerable discount. I already have 14 collets so dont think id bother ,so if anyone`s interested they were still there last time i looked.,

Sorry just gone !!!

**LINK**

I regularly look at it and have had a few bargains years ago. Who makes that interstate stuff is it Chinese??

Hi, Think i may try it, i supposed its no different than the grub screws you see in taperlock pulleys, im only trying to avoid the gear rotating on its shaft and i cant see it moving with screws or pins in .

Hi Thanks, Key way is a good idea but ive already glued the gear section on ,so dont really want to take it off again.

Would drilling 3 equally spaced holes on the end ,centred right on the seam between the gear and the shaft core hold enough if i insert 3 round pins???

A couple of more pics .

There is also the annoying gap to the right , i guess ill just have to re drill the bushing further in and use a roll pin (taper pins are a pain to fiddle with).

Hi, Im currently fiddling about with a spare South Bend i own ,I bought a back gear repair gear section on ebay for the small gear end .

I only noticed yesterday that the back gear  itself is a boxford part and although the gear spacing and gears are correct the whole part is longer by around 5mm on the left hand side and a gap is left on the right side as well when fitted.

I removed a few mm from the left hand side of the back gear shaft.

Turned away the small broken gear section and glued the repair section on the right side whilst temporarily in place to make sure the gear teeth are in line .

Whats the best way to pin the replaced back gear section to the shaft??

Also should i make a spacer for the right hand side gap or push the right hand side bushing right in and redrill for a split pin as the original taper pin will now be out of line.

Hope im explaining this correctly. See pics.

Thanks

Edited By mark smith 20 on 25/10/2016 14:31:48

Thanks Martin, your point four, do you mean as in a foiled cable or does SY cable count as a screened cable.

Also by earthed at one point ,do you mean only one end of the screen is connected to an earth point. Ive heard this before and there seems to be people saying earth both ends and others saying one end only. Its highly confusing for a non electrical person to follow.

Inverter drives are certainly not easy to understand once you get past the basic stuff.

My manual says you can reduce the PWM carrier frequency down to a minimum of 2KHZ which can stop ELCB `s from misbehaving . But also says you can get more motor noise. I`ll have to figure out how to reduce that and see if anything happens???

The manual also says you can use interference proof ELCB`s ,and then you can increase the PWM carrier frequency?

What i dont understand is why its tripping when i turn the isolator to the off position.

Thanks

Edited By mark smith 20 on 21/10/2016 19:43:26

"I have a consumer unit in the workshop fed from the house via armoured cable. The consumer unit in the workshop came with a on /off power mcb? type switch which i changed to a 30ma RCD switch years ago."

That part in the above post i think should read changed to a ELCB,this is what i fitted in the consumer unit.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 21/10/2016 19:23:12

Hi Rod can you expand on this RCD, problem.

I have a consumer unit in the workshop fed from the house via armoured cable. The consumer unit in the workshop came with a on /off power mcb? type switch which i changed to a 30ma RCD switch years ago.

The only problem ive had with the rcd in the workshop was occasionally when i used one of those yellow 110v site transformers that i plugged into a socket fed from the workshop consumer unit. The RCD occasionally trips.

I have a recent problem when i wired my new inverter in for the mill via SY cable. I grounded the metal sheathing and the earth core at all points between the consumer unit and the motor. I fitted a rotary isolator between the consumer unit 20amp mccb and the inverter to cut power to the inverter.

Now the mill works fine but when i switch off the isolator switch the RCD trips. Any idea why.

The inverter does apparently have an in built filter of some sort described as a high attenuation emi filter  but i dont know about these things.

this is the inverter drive, **LINK**

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Edited By mark smith 20 on 21/10/2016 18:47:32

Edited By mark smith 20 on 21/10/2016 18:51:08

Just a suggestion but why not ebay?

I have 3 inverter drives , all new boxed ,fitted to 2 lathes and most recently a mill. Previous to that i had no experience of inverter drives.

All three motors were off ebay as well and were brand new .

My smallest lathe a pultra ,cost me £70 for the Brookes motor and Mitsubishi inverter.

The Southbend ,cost £130 for a Brookes 3/4 HP and a Siemens 440 inverter.

My latest purchase a mill ,i fitted with a 2 HP GE Electric washdown motor and Toshiba inverter cost £280

No complaints how any of the motors or drives are working and for 3 machines £480 is hard to beat.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 20/10/2016 19:24:14

Its definitely a concentricity gauge, ive seen similar homemade ones used for bullet shell cases., though this looks bigger and probably just for round turned projects. I had a similar but different device which came with a wartime Pultra lathe i have .

Edited By mark smith 20 on 18/10/2016 23:55:18

Finally got the feet in ,need to level it tomorrow but its rock solid even before i do that. I like that with the large feet there is quite a bit of adjustment so i can get a comfortable working height.

There was a 24mm difference in the floor between the front right and back left corners of the mill base. So the floor was miles out of level.

Also because i can raise it ,it gives easy access to a pallet truck if i ever need to move it.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 15/10/2016 19:18:53

They are actually quite stable on feet ,if anything the feet are overly large for a bit of safety. Its the same size as a Deckel Fp1 so not that big as milling machines go and certainly not as top heavy as a Bridgeport type mill.

On a slightly different note im busy jacking the mill up 1/2" at a time with dozens of blocks of wood and breeze blocks . Not much fun as i have no lifting gear and it weighs 3/4 ton, i have around 2 " to go.

Hi David they are available here , its Nu-tech engineering who are the sellers. They have M10,M12,M16 and M20 available in this style of vibration dampening feet. Also despite what the shipping says mine came by 24 hr courier next day.

**LINK**

Edited By mark smith 20 on 15/10/2016 13:02:31

I may post a few before and after photos ,though i took hundreds of all the parts ,etc.. whilst i was doing it.

I`m having a little problem setting the horizontal spindle bearing clearance on mine and the spindle nose is getting rather warm at full speed. its separate, though connected through gearing, from the vertical head. Any idea how warm is too warm.

Its a plain tapered bronze bearing type .

Very nice restoration and very quick ! Im just about there with my different mill but its took me 3 months.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 14/10/2016 19:49:32

These are the feet im fitting, they were retailing at RS onLine for around£50-£60 for each foot plus VAT but the manufacturer is selling them off on ebay for £25 for four including postage, a deal i couldnt resist. Rated at 350 kg -400kg per foot. They are still selling them ,also in other sizes.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 14/10/2016 19:45:47

Thanks for all the replies, i have managed to get three of them drilled with the blacksmith drill (re sharpened several times as it is only cutting on the edge) ,my arms are killing as the drill wasnt too happy and ive rapped my knuckles a few times when the drill snagged.

I know i wont be trying this again in a hurry.

Problem i have now is the drill that has gone through on the last hole has jammed in the hole. it is through around 1" below the mill base but i think im going to have to raise the mill and knock the drill through to get it out..

I know i could use shims instead of feet but feet look nicer!

I did contemplate reducing the shaft diameter of the m20 feet but would have had to have bought a die to thread it , i didnt think i would have trusted taking off the 2mm from the shaft and using any remaining thread left .